
Class Ij 

Book 

Copyright N"_ 



J\ J -i u 



_Jll_ 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



The 

International Cutting School's 

System of Gutting 



By L. GIBSON 

New York — Chicago 

First Edition, 1909, One Thousand Copies Second Edition, 1911, One Thousand Copies 

Third Edition, 1913, One Thousand Copies 



COATS 

(PART ONE) 



Entered according to Act of Congress (Act of March 4, 1909), in the year 1913 
by L. Gibson, in the office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C. 



ALL FOREIGN RIGHTS RESERVED 



(Printed ia tbe United States) 



H. C. Adair, Priming, 107-1)1 N. Markcl Si., Chicijo, III. 



COATS § 1 



\ 






Preface to Second Edition 

Give to the world Knowledge, and knowledge pre- 
sented simi)ly, acceptably. The Greatest Thing in the 
World. It is not the fault of the masses of human 
beings that they go through life ignorant of the great 
work that the students of the world have done for 
them. Knowledge is not presented properly. It 
should be and it could be given to the people in such 
shape as would make it easier to read than to stop. 

The greatest task that any man could undertake is 
the presentation to his fellow-men of knowledge, sim- 
ply, attractively, and put before the millions of readers 
at frequent intervals, in relatively small installments, 
always with a beginning and an end satisfying to the 
mind. If you want a well-fed, well-developed body 
you give to that body a certain limited amount of well- 
prepared food at very frequent intervals. To have 
well-fed, well-developed brains in this world you must 
give to those brains at frequent intervals well-pre- 
pared mental food. That is the big task that some man 
or some organization of men will one day carry out. 

The education of children is -a great and important 
work. The education of Growing Men will one day 
be greater and more important. The great task of 
our day is Distribution ; the problem of production 
has been solved. Our fertile earth and the fertile 
brains of men have produced food enough for body 
and for mind. There are bodies and brains with food 
and knowledge close by, as there are deserts that 
stretch beside the Mediterranean Sea. 

You will see the real beginning of civilization when 
the average man shall know as much as is now known 
to the few, when the earth shall be a great republic 
of knowledge and every human brain a thinking 
dynamo contributing its share to the sum total of 
human power — which is human thought. That is the 
Idea carried out in this work by THE AUTHOR. 



i 



10 



©CI.A:»54 29 i 



§ 1 



COATS 



Contents 



' Section. Page. 

The Study Habit 1 5 

The Right Way to Read 1 6 

How to Study 1 7 

Measuring 1 7 

How to Draft 1 12 

The Sack as a Basis 1 13 

rroportion Sack 1 14 

Remarks on the System 1 17 

Chesty Coat 1 18 

S. B. Sack 1 20 

D. B. Sack 1 21 

Long Roll Sack 1 22 

Exaggerated Sack 1 24 

Norfolk with Belt 1 26 

Norfolk Yoked 1 27 

Norfolk Pleated 1 28 

Tuxedo Peak 1 30 

Tuxedo Shawl 1 32 

Disproportion Sack 1 34 

Tall and Slim 1 37 

Short and Stout — 1st Degree 1 38 

Corpulent Sack — 2nd Degree 1 41 

Corpulent Sack — 3rd Degree 1 42 

Military Blouse 1 45 

Collars 1 47 

Cutaway, Frock 2 1 

Cutaway, Stout — 1st Degree 2 2 

Cutaway, Corpulent — 2nd Degree 2 5 

Dress Without Rever 2 6 

Dress With Rever 2 8 

Dress, Stout— 1st Degree 2 10 

Dress, Corpulent — 2nd Degree 2 11 

D. B. Frock 2 12 

S. B. Frock 2 14 

D. B. Stout— 2nd Degre 2 17 

D. B. Corpudent— 3rd Degree 2 18 

Military Frock 2 21 

Clerical Frock 2 22 

Knight Templar Frock 2 23 

Cassock 2 25 

Sleeves 2 28 

Raglan Coat 3 1 

Chesterfield 3 2 

Chesterfield D. B 3 3 



Section. 

Chesterfield Corpulent 3 

Box Overcoat 3 

D. B. Frock Overcoat 3 

D.B.Ulster 3 

Inverness with Cai)e 3 

Shoulder Cape 3 

Cape, Half Circle 3 

Cape, Three-Quarter Circle 3 

Circular Cape 3 

Table of Proportions, How to Make 3 

Tables of Proportions 3 

Making Up 3 

\'est, Measuring 4 

Vest, Normal 4 

Vest, Dress 4 

Vest, D. B.'s 4 

Vest, with Coat Collar 4 

Vest, Corpulent 4 

Vest, Clerical 4 

Vest, Cassock 4 

Table of Proportion 4 

Trousers Cutting 5 

Measurements of Trousers 5 

Construction Lines 5 

Openness and Close of Legs 5 

Cutting the Cloth 5 

Trousers, Normal 5 

Trousers, Wide Hips 5 

Trousers, Bow Leg 5 

Trousers, Peg 5 

Trousers, Corpulent 5 

Corpulent, Narrow Hips 5 

Riding Breeches 5 

Tables of Proportions 5 

The Principle of Grading 6 

Cutaways 6 

Frocks 6 

Skirts 6 

Sleeves 6 

Sacks 6 

Vests 6 

Trousers 6 

Tables of Proportions 6 

Lay-Outs 7 

Block Patterns, How to Use 8 



Page. 

5 

6 

9 

10 

12 

14 

14 

15 

15 

16 

18 

20 

1 

3 

6 

7 

8 

10 

11 

12 

14 

2 

3 

4 

6 



10 

11 

12 

14 

15 

16 

18 

2 

3 

4 

6 

7 

8 

10 

13 

14 

4 

4 



COATS § ^ 



Preface to Third Edition 

Any attempt to teach the principle of garment cut- 
ting must presume that certain causes will produce 
certain effects, and that the relation between these 
causes and effects has been reduced to general rules. 
In this treatise an effort has been made to select the 
known facts and working theories that constitute the 
science of garment cutting today. 

In preparing these textbooks, it has been our con- 
stant endeavor to view the matter from the student's 
standpoint, and try to anticipate everything that would 
cause him trouble. The utmost pains have been taken 
to avoid and correct any and all ambigious expres- 
sions — both those due to faulty rhetoric and those 
due to insufficiency of statement or explanation. As 
the best way to make a statement, explanation, or 
description clear is to give a picture or a diagram in 
connection with it, illustrations have been used almost 
without limit. 

Formerly it was our practice to send to each student 
entitled to receive them a set of volumes printed and 
bound especially for the Course for which the student 
enrolled. In consequence of the vast increase in the 
enrollment, this plan became no longer practicable, 
and we therefore concluded to issue a single set of 
volumes, comprising all our textbooks under the gen- 
eral title of I. C. S. Reference Library. The students 
receive such volumes of this Library as contain the 
instruction to which they are entitled. Under this 
plan some volumes contain one or more Papers not 
included in the particular Course for which the student 
enrolled, but in no case are any subjects omitted that 
form a part of such Course. This plan is particularly 
advantageous to those students who enroll for more 
than one Course, since they no longer receive volumes 
that are in some cases practically duplicates of those 
they already have. This arrangement also renders it 
much easier to revise a volume and keep each subject 
up to date. 

Each volume in the Library contains, in addition to 
the text proper, the Examination Questions. 

The method of numbering pages and articles is such 
that each part is complete in itself; hence in order to 
make the indexes intelligible, it was necessary to give 
each part a number. This number is placed at the 
top of each page, on the headline, opposite the page 
number, and to distinguish it from the page number it 
is preceded by a section mark (§). Consequently, a 
reference, such as § 2, page 8, can be readily found by 
looking along the inside edges of the headlines until 
§ 2 is found, and then through § 2 until page 8 is found. 

INTERNATIONAL CUTTING SCHOOLS. 



§ 1 



COATS 



The Study Habit 



The difference between men who succeed in life and 
men who fail lies primarily in seeing and seizing oppor- 
tunity. We are living in an age of multitudinous oppor_ 
tunities. They stare us in the face every day; they 
most plead with us to put out our hands and grasp 
them ; they come laden with the most tempting re- 
wards. But each opportunity, as it passes, returns no 
more ; another may come, better or worse, but not the 
same one. Yet, however many and of whatever value, 
only he who is trained can see and seize them. It de- 
pends upon himself, and himself alone. Education fits 
a man to appreciate and to make the most of his oppor- 
tunities. We stand on the threshold of unmeasured 
possibilities ; every industry is demanding clear brains, 
skilled hands, and men of disciplined minds. Wherever 
there is a possibility of cheapening production by new 
methods, of producing two articles where only one is 
now available, of quickening transportation, of simpli- 
fying processes, of adopting natural forces to mechan- 
ical ends, of saving tiine or strength to the worker — 
there is an opportunity. Thought is observation, reflec- 
tion, conclusion. To teach men to think quickly, cor- 
rectly, and consecutively, is the mission of education. 
The man who puts no thought into his work is only a 
mechanical device for carrying out some other man's 
thinking; the difference between the human machine 
and the mental machine being that the one feels and 
the other does not. 

But education is not the mere process of gathering 
knowledge; a man may be taught a great many things 
and yet be uneducated. The brain can be stuffed just 
as the stomach, but if the mind food or the body food 
is not digested, it is wasted. Education when properly 
understood is the development of our powers, so direct- 
ing and strengthening and disciplining them that they 
can achieve the ends for which they were created. 
Life's opportunities are entirely missed and its possi- 
bilities are unrealized by the man who has neglected 
the training of his intellectual abilities. 

Too often we think and speak of "Educational Insti- 
tutions" as if they were the only means of education. 
Education is the product of Habit rather than of insti- 
tutions, for a man may live within the best educational 
institutions for a lifetime and unless he has cultivated 
the Study Habit, he will not profit by his advantage. 

The study habit may be considered the beginning 
of character building; it forms a sound foundation for 
all future achievements. The two most striking fea- 
tures of the growth of any habit, whether good or bad 
— regularity and repetition — point the way to the man 
who determines to form the study habit. We venture 
to make a few practical suggestions, such as has been 
tried successfully by thousands of men who now hold 
envied position in the world. They may act as guide- 



posts to the man who desires earnestly to make life a 
success and yet does not know the way. 

I. Launch yourself upon the task with as much im- 
petus as you can command. In doing so bring all your 
nature into play — your mind, imagination, heart, and 
conscience. Make a solemn vow to yourself that you 
luill do it; pledge yourself upon your honor to keep 
that pledge; write your determination upon a piece of 
paper and sign it as a binding bond, and if tempted 
to falter read the obligation and remind yourself that 
your manhood is at stake. 

II. Decide upon the course cjf study you wish to 
pursue. This should be done with the utmost care 
after having estimated your powers to determine along 
what line you are likely to reach the best result. 
Usually the thing to which we turn naturally is the 
one we will be able to do the best. 

III. Obtain the very best textbooks available on 
the subject selected. There are three kinds of text- 
books : The first are written for professors and ad- 
vanced students, in which all elementary knowledge is 
taken for granted; the second are written for students 
in schools and colleges, on the assumption that the 
teacher will conduct the class work and explain the 
difficulties as they arise ; the third are planned and 
written for home study; they are adapted to the stu- 
dent who is studying without the aid of a personal in- 
structor; they take no previous knowledge for granted, 
leading the student from the elementary to the ad- 
vanced principles by regular, easy stages; they are 
arranged in short lessons to fit the needs of the student 
who can give vonly a little time each day to study ; 
they are intensely practical, and they give the student 
exactly the information he needs in order to advance 
himself. It is this last named type of textbooks you 
should obtain, and the only textbooks that fully meet 
all the requirements are those printed for International 
Cutting Schools students. 

rv. Set aside a definite time for study, and keep 
your books and papers always in one place; in this 
way you will waste no time in setting to work and you 
will find it more difficult to excuse yourself for not 
doing the required amount of study. 

V. Never allow an exception to your rule. Let 
your friends know your study hour and hold it as 
sacred. Put your conscience before the door as sentry 
and regard any theft of your time as seriously as you 
would regard a theft of your money. In point of fact, 
it amounts to the same thing. To make this easier you 
can set apart another time for outside engagements or 
pleasures — say one evening a week. When you have 
made such an arrangement, stick to it as if the destiny 
of an empire depends on your fidelity. 



COATS 



§ 1 



VI. If you Study at night, allow a few minutes be- 
fore going to work the next morning for review. You 
will make some brief notes for this purpose. Such a 
plan will fix the subject firmly in the mind and give 
you something definite to think about during the spare 
moments of tiie day. It is not difficult to rise one- 
quarter or one-half hour earlier; if you persist in it for 
a week the Habit will be acquired. 

VII. Whatever you gain from your textbooks, put 
to a practical test as quickly and as often as possible. 
In this way you will also form the Habit of passing 
readily from knowing to doing, and, becoming con- 
vinced of the value of knowledge, you will be eager 
to gather more. 

VIII. P.y way of encouragement, you must remem- 
ber that it is only the first steps in the formation of a 
Habit that are difficult. To study will be more tedious 
the first week than the second, and the second more 
irksome than the third ; but the regular repetition will 
soon make the effort normal, and it will grow to be a 
delight to turn the attention to serious mental work. 

In order to avoid unnecessary difficulties, the follow- 
ing hints deserve attention. 

There are certain physical conditions which make 
study irksome and almost impossible. Students some- 
times find themselves incapable of close attention to a 
printed page or a mechanical drawing — the effort 
brings weariness, headache, nervousness. They make 
the error of believing themselves unfitted for mental 
work. The fault does not lie in their mental powers 
at all- — it is generally physical. 



If you suffer from such feelings, have your eyes ex- 
amined by the most skillful eye specialist you can 
reach. A large percentage of men today have defec- 
tive sight ; their ordinary work does not reveal the fact, 
l)ut as soon as they begin to study under artificial light 
they are aware of a handicap. If it is necessary to 
wear glasses do not purchase them at the nearest 
store; have them made under a doctor's orders and 
according to his specifications. 

Always keep the air fresh in the room where you 
study; open a window whenever possible, if but an 
inch. Air affects not only the lungs but the brain. In 
using the evening for study, observe two or three sim- 
ple rules : 

Do not eat heartily at supper. .Stop after eating a 
reasonable amount and before you are conscious of a 
feeling of fullness. Then, after your studies are fin- 
ished, enough nourishment may be taken, if it is felt 
necessary, to keep the stomach active during the early 
hours of sleep. 

Avoid sitting so near a lamp that the heat is felt 
upon your head. If drowsiness threatens to put a stop 
to the work, a part of the work should be done stand- 
ing. The change of position will insure a redistribu- 
tion of the blood. Five minutes of physical exercise 
will effect the same result to a larger degree, and study 
may be resumed with comparative ease. 

.\ny student who follows the foregoing advice is 
sure to succeed; and he will be better fitted morally, 
physically, intellectuallj', and financially to cope with 
the problems and difficulties of life. 



The Right Way to Read 



"Principles and Maxims for the Reading of Books." 
One should read in a critical, that is to say, a searching, 
testing spirit. Our spirit ought, no 'doubt, to be re- 
spectful to the author of the book, if he happens to be a 
well informed man ; but respect is not tlie same thing as 
submission. 

Books that aim to give information, to supply facts, 
or to show the relations between facts, books that do 
this or that try to change the reader's mind, may safely 



be read in a searching, testing, critical spirit. That the 
only way to read them is to be temporarily submissive. 
Anybody who looks back over his reading years, and 
picks out the fiction and tlie poetry that has really counted 
in his life, will find that in most cases he read them in 
his least critical spirit. They laid their spell upon him 
so strongly that his critical faculty was inhibited. Nor, 
if he is wise, will he be sorry that he once read them in 
this way. 



COATS 



How to Study 



The Instructions are divided into sections by suitable 
lieadings, and are further subdivided into lessons, each 
of which has a number. Study section by section, tak- 
ing each lesson consecutively. Do not skip about the 
paper, reading here and there, but start at the begin- 
ning and go through it in the proper order. 

Beginning the Study of a New Subject. — The great- 
est difficulties encountered when beginning the study 
of a new subject are the strangeness of the terms used, 
the inability of the student to comprehend the useful- 
ness of certain operations, and the feeling of helpless- 
ness that takes hold of him. Anyone studying a sub- 
ject that is entirely new to him will encounter these 
difficulties. 

Study Thoroughly. — You must not e.xpect to under- 
stand all that you study when going through a paper 
for the first time. The best way is to study a few 
pages, then if you do not understand certain statements 
or illustrations, it will be better for you to pass on 
further into the subject, rather than to spend too much 
time on these points, as it is very likely you will find 
applications of them later on in the paper that will 
clear up the matter. Carefuly study each section, 
noting the various statements, drawings, etc. Having 
finished one section, take up the next, and study it with 
the same care and in the same manner as you studied 
the preceding one. 



Do Not Study Too Much at a Time.— Do not try to 

study too much at a time, nor attempt to study longer 
than an hour or an hour and a half at a sitting. If you 
study longer than that, your mind will become con- 
fused, and you will be unable to reason clearly. 

Make Haste Slowly. — By "making haste slowly" you 
will accomplish much more in a given time than by 
hurrying through the subject before obtaining a per- 
fect understanding of it ; because, unless you really un- 
derstand the subject, you will meet with difficulties 
further on in the course, and will then we obliged to 
stop and review some of the earlier papers. 

Devote a Certain Amount of Time Each Day to 
Study. — If you will follow the instructions here out- 
lined, you cannot fail. If possible, it would be well for 
you to devote a certain amount of time each day to the 
prosecution of your studies. Even though you may 
not be able to devote more than half an hour, the prog- 
ress you will make will be surprising, providing you do 
not allow the program you have outlined to be inter- 
rupted. For instance, suppose you decide that you 
can devote one hour a day to study; then, if you will 
allow no deviation from this program and will follow 
the method we have oultined in the preceding para- 
graphs, your progress will be rapid and thorough, and 
satisfactory both to yourself and to us. 



Measuring 



1. The Coat Measures. — Should always be taken in 
the same order, a plan which, particularly in the case 
of beginners, tends materially to obviate confusion 
and mistakes. 

The order found most convenient can be set out as 
follows : 

Inside sleeve 17v( inches 

Breast 36 inches 

Waist 32 inches 

Hip or seat 2>7 inches 

Strap or first over 12 inches 
Over shoulder 17 inches 

Blade (with I34 in. 

for seams added) 12^{> inches 
Depth of scye 9 inches 

Natural waist 16'4 inches 

Fashion waist 18^ inches 

Full length, style of garment. 
Height 5 ft. 6 inches 



Measurements of Coat 

2. The Method of Measuring used is the result of 
long experience, and as this is for the guidance of 
students it is very minutely described. 

In the first place, a cutter should have confidence in 
himself, as the show of nervousness or lack of method 
will create an unfavorable impression on the customer. 

A lack of method to proceed is usually the cause 
of the confusion ; hence a cutter should follow the sug- 
gestions and the rotations as explained, which will re- 
sult in his becoming methodical and expert, and free 
from all confusion. 

While measuring no stops should be made, nor no 
familiarity dis]>layed toward the customer. 

3. Measuring Coat. — When ready to take the meas- 
ures for the coat, have someone to put down the meas- 
ures; otherwise have paper and pencil ready, and do it 
yourself. .\ loose sheet of paper should be used, so 



COATS 



§ 1 



that notes for the cutter can be put down, afterwards 
to be transcribed in the measure book. 

The measures should be taken over the vest always. 
Before removing the coat of the customer it is best to 
ascertain how the length of the coat he has on suits, as 
it gives you a good idea of what the customer wants ; 
measure the coat he has on for length, deducting 1^ 
inches from the top edge of the collar; then request 
him to remove his coat. 

When the coat is off, observe if the vest fits close 
enough to take the measures over; otherwise pin it in 
under the arms the amount of the surplus; equal 
amount on each side; also at the waist line if taking 
measures for a frock. 

4. Place the Square under the arm on the "Left" 
side of the customer, for the reason that the person is 
more normal on the left side; also that it is more con- 
venient, because you are then applying all the measures 
with the right hand, the left hand doing nothing but 
holding the tape line in position (unless you should be 
a left-handed person. Place the square with the short 
arm extending upwards and the long arm horizontally 
under the arm and close against the front of the arm; 
mark with the chalk in front of the square. (See Fig. 1.) 

5. Tip the square outward and down, keeping the 
long arm in the same position (horizontal) ; then mark 
on top or upper side of the square in front, crossing 
the first chalk line; also make a mark back of the arm 
above the square. (See Figs. 2 and 3.) 

6. Remove the square and place the long arm across 
the back horizontally and make a cross mark for the 
depth of scye, or bottom of armhole, in the center of 
the back. (See Fig. 4.) If not sure of being able to do 
it correctly, place the long arm of the square under the 
right arm and mark back of the arm, the same as on the 
left side; then replace the square across the back and 
mark for depth of scye. (See Fig. 5.) This mark 
should be in the center of the back, regardless of where 
the vest seams run. 

7. Waist. — I^lace the square at waist line above the 
hip bones, from the back, the short arm of the square 
resting on the hip bones, and extending forward; the 
location is found by the feeling of your hand; then 
mark the waist line. It can also be done with a tape- 
line. (See Fig. 5.) 

Make a cross mark for the height of neck, \j4 inches 
down from the to|) edge of where the coat collar should 
be when finished. (See Fig. 5.) 

8. The First Measure.— Place the square under the 
left arm with the long arm of the square extending 
downwards towards the hand ; keeping the square close 
up, and held in position by the right hand on the short 
arm of the square. Find the length of sleeve by meas- 
uring to the root of the thumb and deduct 1 inch, in 
the following manner: 




§ 1 



COATS 





Hold the square in position with the right hand; 
with the left hand take hold over the customer's closed 
hand and see that the arm is at full length. Extend 
your index finger at the root of his thumb and note the 
length, say 19 inches; deduct 1 inch and call out 18 
inches, the inside sleeve length, and the first measure. 

9. Body Measures should be taken closely, as there 
is a decided tendency with beginners to take them too 
easy. If the vest and trousers worn are at all easy 
fitting, it will form into one or more folds under the 
tape while the measures are being taken. The student 
need not be troubled by this fact, as he is supposed to 
be taking the actual measures of the body, not the 
measures of the garment covering it. 

10. Strap Measure. — Place the end of the tape-line 
at the cross-mark in front of the arm, "or place the 10- 
inch mark of the tape-line on the cross mark; a better 
hold on the tape with the left hand can be obtained. 
(See Fig. 6.) When calling out the numbers deduct 
10 inches from the amount, as for example, strap 
length would show 22 inches; call out 12 inches." 



10 



COATS 



11. The Tape should be held (irmly in position with 
the left hand ; with the right hand bring it over the 
shoulder in as near a straight line as possible to the 
nape of the neck or socket bone, the cross mark made 
on the back. This is called the Strap, or first-over 
measure, and should be 12 inches. 

12. The Over-Shoulder Measure. — Keep the tape- 
line in position in front, and with the right hand move 
it to the center of shoulder, and bring it in a straight 
line over the shoulder to the mark at depth of scye in 
the center of back. (See Fig. 7.) This is called the 
Over-Shoulder, or Second-Over, measure, and should 
be 17 inches (deducting the 10 inches, if starting from 
10 inches). 

13. The Blade Measure. — Place the tape-line under 
the arm, and from the cross-mark in front, measure 
under the arm in a straight line over the blade to the 
center of the back. (See Fig. 8.) This is called the 
Blade measure, and should be 12^ inches in this case; 
this will include 1J4 inches, the width of the square 
from in front of the arm, wliich also will allow for five 
seams for making up. 

14. The Length Measure. — Place the end of the 
tape-line at the neck point mark, and measure down to 
depth of scye, or armhole mark, 9 inches; continue to 
waist line, 16;)-4 inches, and to full length desired. (See 
Fig. 9.) 

The measures should be called out as you pass them ; 
as 9, 16^4, and 30 inches. 

15. The Breast Measure is taken from in front of 
the customer; with the tape-line in the right hand, 
holding it about 18 inches from the end, pass it around 
under his left arm, meeting the left hand behind; carry 
the tape around to the front, and taking hold of both 
ends with the right hand, holding it close, while run- 
ning the left hand under the tape behind and raise it 
over the blades in a horizontal line; then take the end 
of the tape in the left hand and bring the two together 
across the breast; not too high nor too low, and as 
medium closeness; 36 inches. 

16. The Waist Measure is taken from the front, in 
exactly the same manner as the breast measure, over 
the smallest part, or the mark made on the back; Z2 
inches. 

This is the only measure which should be taken 
fairly snug or close, as there is always a lot of loose 
cloth, also articles of various kinds in the pockets 
of the vest. 

17. The Seat Measure is taken from in front, over 
the largest part of the hip or seat; while holding the 
tape in front, bring the left hand around the hip and 
adjust the tape over the largest part, at the same time 
pushing up any article in the hip pockets from under 
the tape line. The customer should stand with heels 
and toes together while this measure is taken. 




§ 1 



COATS 



11 




18. Supplementary Measures can be taken when 
the person is extreme in some particulars; such as 
heavy muscles around the shoulder or arm. A circular 
measure is then taken around the arm ; when extra 
high, or low shoulders, measure from front of arm 
mark over the shoulder to the back of arm mark on a 
line where the sleeve seam would run. 

19. Other Measures, as in frock coats, from a line 
drawn vertically in front of the arm and down to the 
waist; measure from side to the front of waist and 
from side to the back of the waist; likewise further 
down, back over the seat. 

20. The Vest Measures. — The same measures are 
used for the vest as for the coat, with the addition of 
the opening, or to the top button, and the full length 
in front. Sometimes a measure is taken to the side 
opposite the hip from nape of neck. For vest measures 



see under \'ests (Part 4). For trousers measures see 
under Trousers (Part 5.) 

21. This completes the measures for the coat, which 
are the same for all coats, including overcoats, and you 
so announce to the customers; also remove the pins 
and brush ofif the chalkmarks, which should not be 
made too heavy in case it is forgotten to brush them 
off. 

22. The Height. — The height of the customer 
should now be measured ; have a place convenient for 
such a purpose. The actual measuring can in most 
cases be dispensed with by asking the customer about 
his height; most everyone knows his own height. 

The height should in no case be omitted. When the 
Breast, Height and Attitude is obtained, no cutter can 
fail in coming within a quarter of an inch of the actual 
measures of any person (excepting actual deformities). 

23. The Attitude or standing and form of the cus- 
tomer should now be noted, such as stooping, sloping, 
square shoulders or erect. For convenience they can 
be divided into two degrees, of one-quarter and one- 
half inch. It can be done while taking the measures 
by calling out "S. T. one-half" for stooping, or "S. L. 
one-quarter" for sloping, and so on ; or the cutter can 
mark it on the paper himself. Also note whether the 
shoulders are even. Call out the low side as "right 
one-half inch." Do the same with trousers. See under 
the section of Trousers. 

24. Style. — Next find out the style of coat desired 
on the fashion plate, if not previously selected, noting 
any particulars wanted in the cut deviating from the 
style ; otherwise this is left to the cutter. 

25. Note to Cutters. — The foregoing minute de- 
scription of taking measures may seem superfluous to 
an experienced cutter. It is nevertheless a fact that the 
greatest trouble in cutting arises from careless or in- 
adequate measures, so that in applying them to the 
draft the cutter is afraid of using them, rendering them 
thereby of no value. However, by using this system 
as it is explained, the miss of a measure would not 
seriously affect the production of a well-fitting gar- 
ment. 



12 



COATS 



§ 1 



How to Draft 



The few necessary articles needed for drafting are a 
tape line, a square, some chalk and a piece of cloth 
to draft on, besides the paper. 

26. The Paper should be unrolled from right to left 
over a piece of cloth, a yard and a half of moleskin is 
the best; it presents an even and firm surface and does 
not shift under tiie chalk. White paper and a drafting 
lead can be used. 

It is not always possible to get the right kind of 
paper; for that reason and also that it has a tendency 
to produce a heavy hand on the draftsman , therefore 
it is better to use the regular tailor's paper of any 
color desired, and chalk. 

27. The Chalk. — The shaping and use of the chalk 
may seem a small matter to some; it is nevertheless 
important. First shave down the heavy ends till 
almost a sharp edge; this prevents a lump forming at 
each end when sharpening and using, and also allow- 
ing it to follow close to the ruler. Then sharpen one 
of the thin edges. Never sharpen but one side. A 
piece of sandpaper stretched on a knocked-down cigar 
box makes a fine finish edge on the chalk. 

28. Palming of the chalk is a practice which should 
be studiously avoided; by palming it the oil in the 
chalk, together with the moisture of the hand, causes 
the oil to appear and prevents the chalk from marking 
properly. The chalk should be held between the 
thumb and the first and second fingers, leaving the 
other fingers to assist in placing the square, etc. When 
unable to do so lay it down or put it in the apron 
pocket. 

29. The Square. — The understanding of the square 
is really very simple. The square is nothing but a 
ready-reckoner, assisting a person in finding a given 
division or number at the instant. Each arm of the 
square is divided into six parts, or subdivisions, all 
commencing and counting from the corner. 

The first figure in each division is 12, indicating a 
24-inch breast (as only one-half of the coat is drafted), 
and the last one is 24, but falls on the 12 of the next 
higher division, which should be a 48 breast. 

The Long Arm. — Commencing at the corner is the 
"24ths," and it ends at the first inch. 



The "12ths." Counting from the corner, the first fig- 
ure 12, is at the one inch, and the last one at the two 
inches. 

The "6ths." The first figure is at two inches, and 
and the last at four inches, which would mean that 
from the corner to the two inches marked 12 would 
be one-sixth of 24 breast. From the corner to 18 
would be one-sixth of 36 breast. 

The "3rds." The first figure is at four inches, and 
the last at eight inches, which would mean that from 
the corner to, say 20, would be one-third of 40 breast. 

The "2 Thirds" commences at eight inches and ends 
at sixteen inches, but can be extended to the end of the 
square. 

The full inches to the end of the square are divided 
into one-sixth part of an inch. The whole long arm of 
the square is divided into sixths of inches; no eighths 
are found on this side. 

It should be understood that in reading the square, 
where a number is omitted, it is because of there not 
being room for all of them to show, although the be- 
tween numbers are marked always, for example, one- 
third of i7 breast would be between 18 and 19 on 
"3rds." In like manner a half size is located as 37^ 
breast. 

30. The Short Arm. — Commencing at the corner is 
the "32nds," which end at ^)(\ inch. 

The "16ths" begin at ^j inch and end at I3/2 inch. 

The "8ths." The first figure is at Ij^ inches and the 
last at 3 inches. 

The "4ths" start at the 3 inches and end at the 6 
inches length, and contain all the numbers. 

The "Halves" extend the length of the arm from the 
6 inches point, and each number is here marked. 

On the inner edge of tlie square on both arms the 
full inches are indicated. 

The whole short arm of the square is divided into 
one-eighths inches; no 6ths are found on this side. 

31. The numbers on all of these divisions are equal 
to one-half the full breast size dealt with, because all 
patterns are cut from the center of the back to the 
center of tlie front, which is only one-half of the man 
measured. In cutting, however, we cut the cloth dou- 
ble, which gives us the two sides. 



§ 1 



COATS 



13 



Therefore, when the l)reast size is, for exam|)le, 36, 
only one-half of that (|uantity, ov 18 inches, is used; 
the breast size and all divisions of that breast size will 
also be 18. Therefore the numbers on these divisions 
cover the range of sizes from 24 to 48 breast. 

To illustrate further, one-half of a 40 breast is 20 on 
all of the divisions, and whatever divisions are to be 
used will be 20 of that particular di\-ision. The one- 
half of a 44 breast is 22, and so on all the way through 
the different sizes. 

The reverse side of the square contains plain inches, 
so when inches are mentioned they are always obtained 
on the reverse side by turning over the square. 

Before attempting to do any actual drafting be- 
come familar with the square and go through such 
exercises as finding different sizes on all divisions. 

32. In using the divisions in the text to follow they 
will always be referred to as l/12ths, l/6ths, l/3ds, 
2/3ds, J-^ths, 34tlis and yi breast. When a total quan- 
tity instead of a division is used they will be spelled 
out, as one-fourth, one-half, etc. In this way the 
student will be able to know the difference between 
the division of the square and any part of a quantity 
as a whole. 

33. The Use of the Square. — When drafting always 
keep it in the left hand, holding it by the long arm. 
The right hand should never let go of the chalk, and 
only assist in placing the square. 

Always keep within the square; do not let the ends 
of the square come against the body. In most cases 
when a point is located all that is recjuired is to either 
slide or roll the square in that direction. 

Always try to mark at the corner of the square, so 
as to have the chalk move with the square. 

Stand up close to the cutting table, and have it high 
enough to avoid bending over too much. 

34. Up Measures. — One thing to always keep in 
mind is that all up measures are obtained on the long 
arm of the square, and all horizontal or lateral meas- 
ures are found on the short arm; so that when the 
measure calls for an eighth or a twelfth it is easy to 
remember on which end of the square to look for it. 



The Sack Coat as a Basis 

35. In selecting the style of a sack coat for the first 
illustration of the working of the system, the usual 
rule of presenting a frock coat first has been reversed, 
for the reason that a sack coat is by far the easiest of 
coats for a beginner to start with. As the system be- 
comes more familiar to him and the hand gets more 
used to drafting, it will insure (piicker results by com- 
mencing with the sack. 

The system can ])e explained as well for a sack as 
any other coat. 

With the object of affording the student early en- 
couragement, while at the same time rendering him 
familiar with the plan for producing the various lines 
and points embodied in the system, the divisions used 
in the first draft are supplied from the breast measure, 
or proportional, taken in the ordinary way, and fully 
described in the previous remarks on measurements. 

As the system thus worked is extremely simple 
(there being no confusing shifting if the jiosition of 
the back, etc.) the student, by a careful study of the 
instructions for drafting, will soon be qualified to draft 
accurately and expeditiously the diagrams illustrated. 

The subsequent diagrams will be worked by propor- 
tions and actual measures, as described in the articles 
on measures, while for uniformity and consequent 
simplicity (features which have been carefuly con- 
sidered in all stages of this work) the same lines and 
quantities will be used as introduced in the first draft. 

In addition to acquiring a knowledge of the location 
of the points, the student should observe the formation 
of the various curves or outlines of the pattern, as at- 
tention to such details contributes greatly to obviate 
mistakes in the making up of the garment. 

36. The Letters in this work are arranged in alpha- 
betical order, and by following the rotation adopted 
no confusion, or overlooking any points, can be pos 
sible, thereby acquiring accuracy and efficiency. Also 
no letters or figures are used twice on any garment; 
furthermore, that each letter or figure occupies the 
same position (or nearly so) throughout the system. 

The system has been laid out for study, and many 
lines have been introduced, but each line makes some 
point easier of comprehension. 

It is the easiest thing in the world to leave out and 
make incomplete, but to give just the points and lines 
needed is not so small a task. Here the student will 
find that each line and point carries an idea that re- 
quires that nuich less mental effort on his part. 



14 



COATS 



§ 1 



Proportion Sack 

Diagram 1 



To lender the student familiar with the working of 
the system, all points in this, the first draft are, unless 
otherwise specified, found by division of the breast 
measure. 

Note — A rule which should always be observed by 
cutters and students is to read through a description 
before commencing drafting it, the first time especially. 

37. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Inside sleeves 17^ inches. Natural waist 16^4 inches. 



Breast 36 


inches. Full length 30 


inches. 


Waist 32 


inches. Height 5 feet 6 


inches. 


Hip or seat 37 


inches. 
To Draft. 





1 Place the corner of the square at point A, with the 

long arm downward, and about lyi inches from 
the edge of the paper. (See Diagram 1.) 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast on '■3rds" and Syi inches (9^)- 

3 That is from A find 18 on "3rds" and make a small 

mark; turn the square over and place the corner 
on the mark and measure down 3^ inches to B. 

4 Move the corner of the square up to A — the distance 

from A to B should be 9^ inches. 

5 The two quantities, the division from A and the fixed 

quantity of 3^4 inches, gives the depth of scye, 
or the distance from the top of the backpart to 
the breast line, for all sizes. (Not including the 
collar.) 

6 The division from A gives the relative increase and 

decrease according to the breast size dealt with, 
while the fixed quantity checks it from increasing 
or decreasing too rapidly. 

7 It is called the arm-scye and is pronounced like arms- 

eye from which it no doubt derived its name. 

8 Place the corner of the square at point A with the 

inches side up and mark length to C (16^ inches) 
called natural waist. 

9 The natural waist length should be one-fourth the 

man's height and ^ inch added for curvature of 
the back. 
Place corner of square on point C with the division 
side up and mark to D — 1/3 of breast — 18 on 
"3rds" (6 inches) for 36 breast establishing the 
seat or hip line. 
10 A to E is the full length of the Coat, use the tape line 
or use the square, mark the length (24) and add 
the balau'-e. 



11 Place the square, corner on A and find point F half- 

way between A and B — used for obtaining height 
of front shoulder, and also locate the back notch 
for sleeve. 

12 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F using the long 

arm of the square. 

13 Mark all the letters with the chalk whenever a line or 

measure is completed. Then read the next sen- 
tence and look on the diagram. 

14 Follow the rotation of the letters or figures as set 

down in the text. 

15 C to G is yi inch, draw line F to G and down to E. 

16 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

17 Place 18 inches or half the breast measure on the line 

inside of B and measure to H, the corner of the 
square. 

18 Move the square forward 2^ in. and mark point I. 

19 The 2^ inches are for seams and make-up. 

20 Place corner of square on inside line of B with the 

short arm across and measure yi breast — 18 on 
"halves" to point 2. 

21 It being a cross measure is found on the short arm. 

22 Turn over the square, keeping hold on the long arm, 

and place corner of square on point K. 

23 3j/2 inches from 2 and square up from K — the front 

of armhole (12]/ inches). 

24 This is the normal blade measure and includes 1^ 

inches allowance for seams. 

25 While the square is in position find point L. 

26 L is halfway between B and K — (6^ inches). 

27 Place corner of square on point M, lj4 inches from 

L — the width of back. 

28 Square up to O and down to N, mark letters. 

29 P is ^ inch back from O-N line; mark P. 

30 A to Q is 1/12 breast— 18 on '•12ths." Find 18 on 

division of "12ths"; place 18 on A and mark at 
end of square as at Q (1^^). 

31 Turn over the square and move to R. 

32 Q to R is lJ/2 inches; square up to S. 

33 R to S is ^ inch — width of back at the neck. 

34 K to T is 1^ inches, and T to U is 1/12 breast, 18 on 

"12ths/' same as A to R. 

35 Draw a line from S to U— this gives the height for 

the back shoulder. 



§ 1 



COATS 



15 




DIAGRAM 1 



16 



COATS 



§ 1 




DIAGRAM 2 — PROPORTION SACK 



§ 1 



COATS 



17 



36 Draw a line from F to V — this gives the height of the 

front shoulder. 

37 Draw a line from F to K locating Y, the height of 

sideseam at Y. 

38 X is 3/< inch on the S-U line, or style width of back. 

39 Y is J<2 inch from the M-O line always. 

40 Draw a guide line from Y to P and P to N with th-> 

square. 

41 Shape the back from A to S from S to X hollow 

ys inch between S and W ; from X through 
Y to bottom of armhole. 

42 From Y to P curve slightly to P. 

43 From P to N in a straight line. 

44 In shaping at Y a ^ inch should be added for a 

scam beyond Y. 

45 This completes the Back and Diagram 1. 

Proportion Sack 
Diagram 2 

46 Place corner of square on X and measure to S. 

47 Place corner of square on Y and measure to point 

1 ^ inch less than S to X, the width of shoulder. 

48 Draw a guide line from Point 1 to T. 

49 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding J,2 in. over Z. 

50 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

51 Place corner of square on 4, measure to 5, ^^ waist — 

16 on "halves" — center of waist. Square down 
from 5 to 7. 

52 For spring over the hip go out from 12 to 11 — 1^4 in. 

53 Draw a line from 13 through 11 to 14. 

54 Y to 14 is the length from Y to N. 

55 Shape the sideseam of the forepart from Y, touching 

the back over the breast-line and halfway between 
P and 13. 

56 Going out ^ inch over 11 to a 34 "ich of 14. 

57 Z to 7 is the length from Z to E, and 1 in. from line K. 

58 The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 

59 Draw a line from 14 to 7 and shape bottom. 

60 Place corner of square on V, long arm on K, find 

1/12 breast on "12ths" and mark as at 18. 

61 Move the square down to 18 and square to 19. 

62 18 to 19 is J4 breast on "4ths" (Ayi inches). 

63 Draw a line from 19 to I and 5. 

64 19 to 20 is 2j4- inches — or style — notch yi in. from 19. 

65 I to J is 1J4 inches, 5 to 6 is 1 inch. 

66 Go in a ^ inch at 7 and draw a line to 6. 

67 Shape from V the gorge or neck hole and front. 
This completes Diagram 2. 



Remarks on the System 

40. The lines A and B constitute the normal bal- 
ance, and is used as a check or proof. 

Any measures or attitude deviating from it would 
indicate disproportion in the parts they differ. 

The heigth and width is combined as explained in 
the depth of scye measure and the normal line is estab- 
lished from A to V. 

41. The strap or first over measure should not go 
above or below the line A-V for a normal figure. When 
S is established as directed, and point F half way be- 
tween 4 or A (if normal) ; lines drawn from S to U and 
F to V will be correct height of shoulders always. 

It should be noted that point S is not obtained by 
1/6 or j/s and a fraction Some persons will make a 
mistake and think because 1/6 of 36 is 3 inches, and ^ 
and yi inch is 3 inches; and that 1/12 and 1>2 inches also 
is 3 inches; that it is the same; (We have had that 
handed to us many times). 

Certainly it is the same on a 36 breast size; but it 
ends right then and there is no more sameness. 

By using the division of 1/12; when this amount 
(from A to R) is placed at K, the correct strap length 
will be at point V; with all allowances added if the per- 
son is normal ; or in other words, this is normal strap 
length always for all sizes. 

If a 6th were used or an 8th it is evident it cannot 
be the same. On a 48 breast the strap would vary % 

inch. 

When the strap length conies above point V it indi- 
cates an erect form ; or the measures are taken wrong. 

It is as sure a check as can be. 

42. Likewise the over shoulder measure is correct 
provided point A or 4 is established as explained. 

The high shoulder or low shoulder is regulated by 
the depth of scye and front shoulder point from point 
4; or A (if height corresponds to width). 

The breast line is never changed, the measures are 
really applied from the breast line up. 

The breast line and A-V line form the balance or 
frame; if attitude is stooping point V will be below the 
line and point A will rise above the normal line. 

The lower part of the coat is never disturbed by 
attitude ; all changes are made on the line A-V. 

Consequently the sleeves will hang correct every time, 
because a sleeve, or rather the arm) hangs straight down 
always; no matter what attitude. 

Therefore if the breast line is always horizontal (the 
way the measures were taken) the sleeve must fit cor- 
rectly every time. 



18 



COATS 



§ 1 



43. For erect or stooping attitude there can there- 
fore be only a. j4 or yi inch more or less spring changes 
from the normal; for erect more, and for stooping less. 

Measures can be applied when measuring and when 
drafting ; or a near enough quantity added or reduced if 
no measure is taken. 

The stationary breast line enables us to easily deter- 
mine the run of bottom ; by a sweep from E to 7 ; from 
the center of body on line K. 

Line E is the extreme back width and line 7 is the 
extreme front width. All three of them are fixed points, 
fashion cannot change them ; therefore, by adding fi 
below 17 gives a continuous even run to the bottom; the 
same distance from the floor every time. 

All measures and system points are applied from fi.xed 
or stationary points. 

Therefore, style can have no efl'ect on the system in- 
sofar as misplacing any of the points. 

If there is one solid (stationary) and correct point, 
other points obtained from it will also be correct; but 
never from movable points. 

All coats are finished to the front center, then addi- 
tions for D, B, or style are put on. A further study in 
the disproportions of the coat should be gone over care- 
fully, until the principle it works on becomes clear. 

When the system points are obtained correctly there 
is not such a great variation in the different points as 
.some cutters seem to imagine. 

44. The shoulder point can in no possible instance 
rise more than Yz inch above line A-V, and that is ex- 
treme; and half the distance back from line U-V. 

It cannot possibly go more than ^ inch below the line, 
and the same amount forward. The back height can in 
no instance go more than a ^ inch below the line, nor 
]/> inch above the line. 

This means for attitude after the normal zvidth and 
/j^if/ZiMine has been established. For example: A per- 
son 5 feet 9 inches, 42 breast, stooping ^ inch, low 
shoulders or sloping Y^ inch, establish the depth of scye 
from 4 to B by the breast measure (42) ; from B up 
apply the depth of scye of the height (39 breast) ; A is 



half way between the two and is the normal depth of 
scye. 

Line 4 forms the normal front height. 

45. When the actual depth of scye measure is ap- 
plied it will be found as follows: Scye plus Y^ inch, 
sloping shoulders plus Ya i"ch, stooping plus ^ inch 
total measure ; with allowance of l^ inch for make-up. 

The front shoulder will be (a Ya i"ch below for 
normal) in this instance the sloping shoulders add a Y 
inch to the strap length, thereby rising line A-V a Ya 
inch. The measure will therefore fall on the line A-V 
as drawn, but a Y inch forward. 

The height of shoulders are taken from the highest 
jioint .S to U, or line 4, and from F (half way between 4 
and B) to point V normal. This will give the correct 
height of the shoulders. 

It should also be remembered that if a person stoops 
Y2 inch in the back, the point V will only lower half as 
much, and advance half as much. This can easily be 
verified by placing the normal shoulders together, and 
l)y raising the collar '6 inch in back it will be found to be 
a '4 '"ch at point V. 

Chesty Coat 
Diagram 3 

46. Draw a line from 1% inches back of point V 
through the corner of the pocket. 

Draw a line from the breastline to the notch. 

Cut in from the notch to the breastline, down to the 
pocket and up to V ; leave pattern together at V. 

Open at the breastline ^ to 1 inch and fold pleat 
below the pocket ; this will open Y^ 'nch at the notch. 

Re-shape by the new position as shown. 

The 3^ -inch opening should be worked in between 
the two bars marked 6 inches apart. 

Add a Y inch over the blade for the back and % inch 
for flare. Take out Y- i"ch in the under arm cut. 

Add Y^ '"ch flare to the back part. 



§ 1 



COATS 



19 




DIAGRAM 3 - CHESTY COAT 



20 



COATS 



§ 1 




DIAGRAM 4 SINGLE BREASTED SACK 



§ 1 



COATS 



21 



Single Breasted Sack 



Diagram 4 



38. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Inside sleeve 17>4 inches. Blade (with 1^ inches for 
Breast 36 inches. seams added) 12)4 inches. 

Waist 32 inches. Depth of scye 9 inches. 

Hip or seat 37 inches. Natural waist 16% inches. 
Strap 12 inches. Full length 30 inches. 

Over shoulder 17 inches. Height 5 feet 6 inches. 
Form and Attitude, normal. Sizes 33 to 42 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3>^ inches (9^). 

3 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

4 A to C is one-fourth height, and J4 i"ch for curve of 

Back (16;'4). 

5 C to D is 1/3 breast, on "3rds" (6) Seatline. 

6 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

7 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

8 F is half between B and A, for front shoulder height. 

9 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 

10 C to G is 5^ inch, draw line F to G and down to E. 

11 From the line just drawn inside of B measure' to H. 

12 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

13 H to I is 2)4 inches — center of breast. 

14 B to K is blade (with lj4 inches for seams) {IZyz). 

15 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

16 L is half way between B and K. 

17 L to M is lyi inches — width of Back. 
IS Square up to O and down to N. 

19 P is ^S inch from line O-M ; draw line to N. 

20 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths," and 

21 Q to R is iy> inches; square up to S, ^ inch. 

22 K to T is iy2 inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

23 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

24 V is located on lines from K and A. 

25 Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. 

26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

27 Rise at X ^ inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

28 X is 3/2 inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

29 Y is J/j inch from the O-N line, and 1/12 up from M. 

30 Draw guide line from Y to P. 

31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and }^ 

in. (9^) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 

32 The 1/2 inch is for fulness held in over the blade. 

33 Shape the Back as shown; draw line from B to W. 

34 Apply strap measure, and 1 inch A to R, placing the 

amount at K, and measure up, locating V (13 in.). 

35 When attitude is normal will meet line A-V. 

36 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 in. from B to W, 

placing the amount at K, and measure up, locating 
Z (18 inches). 

37 When attitude is normal will meet line F-V. 

38 Z is \% inches from line K. 

39 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

40 V to point 1 is }i inch less than S to X. 

41 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 



42 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding '/i in. over Z. 

43 B> to 2 is >4 breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3>4 inches. 

44 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

45 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

46 4 to 5 is >4 waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

47 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5, is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

48 5 to 8 is Zyz inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 

49 These Zyi inches are for seams and make-up. 

50 Apply hip measure and ;;4 inch for 3 seams; width 

of Back from 12 to D and 10 to 11. 

51 11 to 12 is 1% inches; square up, locating 13. 

52 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11 is l;/^ inches.) 

53 Draw a line from 13 through 11 to 14. 

54 Measure waist and 1)^ inches P to G and 8 to 16. 

55 Y to 14 is the length from Y to N. 

56 Shape side seam of forepart from Y to 16, going out 

^ inch over 11 to 14 — or Style. 

57 Draw line 15 and take out a % inch or more. 

58 (Reduce }4 in. from Y to 16 when no underarm cut.) 

59 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. 

60 The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 

61 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower ^ at 17. 

62 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

63 18 to 19 is ^ breast ; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

64 The coat is now completed to the front center; any 

addition is for overlap, either single or double 
breasted. 

65 19 to 20 is 2% inches; notch >/. inch from 19. 

66 I to J is 1^ inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch; square down. 

67 Go in yi inch at 7 ; draw line from 6 and shape front. 

68 V to 21 is lyi inches; draw line to end of roll. 

69 The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and J/2 inch from K. 

70 (For double-breasted add 234 inches to the front.) 

71 All coats are drafted a straight front always; then the 

style is put on ; such as 2, 3 or 4 buttons ; the cut- 
away in front, and the width and style of lapel. 

72 To place the pocket : lay corner of square on K, find 

the inside sleeve length (17->^) on the 2 "3rds," 
add a 14 inch for the slant; about 12;'4 inches 
down from K. 

73 The width is 3J4 inches on each side of the line K, 

running even with the bottom. 

Double Breasted Sack 

39. All points are obtained as usual in Sack Coats. 
From center or front line 19-1 and 5 to front edge 26-J 
and 6 is 3J4 inches. Peak lapel for style. The lower but- 
ton is 1 inch below the pocket. 

The buttons are placed as far back from the center 
line as the end of the holes (or eyes) are in front of it. 

A V should be taken out in the gorge. The length 
of the roll is to suit or measure. A collar must be cut 
for each coat ahvays. 



22 



COATS 



§ 1 



Long Roll Sack 

Diagram 5 



47. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Inside sleeve 17^ inches. Blade (with 1>4 inches for 
Breast 36 inches. seams added) 12^ inches. 

Waist 32 inches. Depth of scye 9 inches. 

Hip or seat :i7 inches. Natural waist 16^ inches. 
Strap 12 inches. Full length 30 inches. 

Over shoulder 17 inches. Height 5 feet 6 inches. 

Form and attitude, normal. Sizes, 33 to 42 breast. 

To Draft. 

1 Square bolli ways from A. 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3>4 inches (9>2). 

3 This is the proportional and includes all allowances. 

4 A to C is one-fourth height, and 14 '"ch for curve 

of Back. (16^). 

5 C to D is 1/3 breast, on "3rds." seatline (6). 

6 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

7 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

8 F is half between B and A, for front shoulder height. 

9 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 

10 C to G is I/2 inch, draw line F to G and down to E. 

11 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

12 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

13 H to I is 2y^ inches — center of breast. 

14 B to K is blade (with 1,14 inches for seams). {I2y2). 

15 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

16 L is half-way between B and K. 

17 L to M is \y^ inches— width of Back. 

18 Square up to O, and down to N. 

19 P is 3/2 inch from Line O-M ; draw line to N. 

20 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths" and 

21 Q to R is \y2 inches; square up to S, ^ inch. 

22 K to T is 1"^ inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

2Z Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

24 V is located on lines from K and A. 

25 Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. 

26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

27 Rise at X JX inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

28 X is "/z inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

29 Y is >< inch from the O-N line, and 1/12 up from M. 

30 Draw guide line from Y to P. 

31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and ^4 inch 

to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 
2i2 The y'2 inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

33 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

34 Apply strap measure, and 1 inch A to R and K to V 

(13) in normal attitude will meet line A-V. 

35 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch (18) B to 

W and K to Z ; when normal, meet line F-V. 



36 Z is lj4 inches from line K. 

37 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

38 V to point 1 is ^ inch less than S to X. 

39 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

40 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding 3^ in. over Z. 

41 B to 2 is i/^ breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3>4 inches. 

42 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

43 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

44 4 to 5 is 3^ waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

45 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5, is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

46 5 to 8 is 234 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 

47 These 2_^^ inches are for seams and make-up. 

48 Apply hip measure and ^4 inch for 3 seams; width 

of Back from 12 to D and 10 to 11. 

49 11 to 12 is 1^ inches; square up, locating 13. 

50 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11 is \f\ inches.) 

51 Draw a line from 13 through 11 to 14. 

b2 Measure waist and Ij^ inches P to G and 8 to 16. 

53 Y to 14 is the length from Y to N. 

54 Shape side seam of forepart from Y to 16, going out 

y% inch over 11 to 14 — or style. 

55 (Reduce Y^ in. from Y to 16 when no underarm cut.) 

56 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. 

57 The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 

58 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower ^ at 17. 

59 V to 18 is 1/12 breast ; square forward from 18 by K. 

60 18 to 19 is J4 breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

61 19 to 20 is 2)4 inches ; notch )4 inch from 19. 

62 5 to 6 is 1 inch, square down. 

63 Place buttonholes as desired and shape front. 

64 V to 21 is 1)4 inches; draw a line to end of Roll. 

65 From the crease and gorge lines to 19 is the opening 

2 inches. 

66 Draw a rounding line Yz inch over the breast. 

67 From 19 draw a straight line to end of Roll. 

68 Back of 19 add 2 seams and draw parallel line. 

69 19 to 20 is the width to the notch. 

70 20 to 26 is 1 ^ inches or width desired. 

71 Make the inside of the lapel either curved or straight. 

72 Shape as represented and cut out the V. 
7Z The end of the cut runs off the break line. 

74 This will produce a prominent curved roll. 

75 The forepart is cut along the break line. 

76 Finished with patch pockets and no underarm cut. 

77 The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and Y^ inch from K. 



§ 1 



COATS 



23 




DIAGRAM 5 - LONG ROLL SACK 



24 



COATS 



§ 1 




§ 1 



COATS 



25 



Exaggerated Sack 

Diagram 6 



48. The measures are taken over the \'est always. 
Inside sleeve 17^ inches Blade (with 1'4 inches for 
seams added) I23/2 inches. 
Depth of scye 9 inches. 
Natural waist 16^ inches. 
Full length 30 inches. 
Height 5 feet 6 inches. 



Breast 


36 


inches. 


Waist 


32 


inches. 


Hip or seat 


Z7 


inches. 


Strap 


12 


inches. 


Over shoulder 


17 


inches. 


Exaggerated 


2 


inches. 



Form and Attitude normal. 



Sizes, ?>Z to 42 breasts. 



To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A. 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast on '■3rds" and 3j/2 inches (9>4). 

3 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

4 A to C is one-fourth height, and )4 i"ch for curve 

of Back. (16^). 

5 C to D is 1/3 breast, on '■3rds" (6) Seatline. 

6 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

7 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

8 F is half between B and A, for front shoulder height. 

9 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 

10 C to G is ^ inch, draw line F to G and down to E. 

11 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

12 B to H is half the full breast measure. (19) Exagg. 

13 H to I is 2^ inches — center of breast. 

14 B to K is blade (with 1^ inches for seams). 

15 Square up from K. 

16 K to 31 is 1 inch — half exaggeration. 

17 3 is half-way between K and 31 ; square up. 

16 L is half-way between B and 3. 

17 L to M is 1>4 inches— width of Back. 

18 Square up to O, and down to N, ^ inch flare. 

19 P is >^ inch from line 0-M ; draw line to N. 

20 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths/' and 

21 Q to R is \y2 inches; square up to S, Y^ inch. 

22 3 to T is V/^ inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

23 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

24 V is located on lines from K and A. 

25 Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. 

26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

27 Rise at X J/2 inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

28 X is 3^ inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

29 Y is ;/ inch from the O-N line, and 1/12 up from M. 

30 Draw guide line from Y to P. 

31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and ^ inch 

to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. (9^). 



2)2 The Y> inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 
12) Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to VV. 

34 Apply strap measure, and 1 inch A to R and 3 to V. 

(13) in normal attitude will meet line A-V. 

35 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch (18) B to W 

and 3 to Z ; when normal, meet line F-V. 

36 Z is 1)4 inches from line K. 

Z7 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

38 V to point 1 is % inch less than S to X. 

39 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

40 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding Y2. in. over Z. 

41 A continuous rounding to V for length over chest. 

42 B to 2 is j^ breast, and 3/2 inch exaggeration. 

43 2 to K is 3>4 inches. 

44 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

45 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

46 4 to 5 is 54 waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

47 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5, is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

48 5 to 8 is 2^ inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 

49 These 2^ inches are for seams and make-up. 

50 Apply hip measure and 34 inch for 3 seams; width 

of Back from 12 to D and 10 to 11 and Yi inch 
exaggeration. 

51 Measure normal back width at 12, not the flare. 

52 11 to 12 is Xy^ inches; square up, locating 13. 

53 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11 is 1^ inches.) 

54 Draw a line from 13 through 11 to 14. 

55 Measure waist and 13^ inches P to G and 8 to 16. 

56 Y to 14 is the length from Y to N. 

57 Shape side seam of forepart from Y to 16, going out 

Yt, inch over 11 to 14; add ^ inch for flare. 

58 Draw line 15 and take out a Ya inch or more. 

59 (Reduce Y^ '"• from Y to 16 when no underarm cut.) 

60 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. 

61 The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 

62 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower ^ at 17. 

63 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

64 18 to 19 is J4 breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

65 19 to 20 is 2>4 inches ; notch ■/ inch from 19. 

66 I to J is 1"/^ inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch; square down. 

67 Go in JX inch at 7 ; draw line from 6 and shape front. 

68 V to 21 is \Ya inches; draw line to end of roll. 

69 The first button is 10 inches down from the notch ; 

the last is 7>1 inches from the first. 

70 The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and Y^ inch from K. 

71 And 6Y2 inches running even with the bottom line. 

72 (For double-breasted add 2)4 inches to the front.) 

73 All coats at point Y should be cut with ^ inch step 

for a seam. The forepart is cut straight across. 



26 



COATS 



§ 1 




49. This coat is cut in the same manner as a sack 
coat; the pleats are cut separate and laid on the coat, or 
they can be cut as explained in the Norfolk Pleated. 

The pleat pieces are cut twice as wide as the pleats, 
and in cutting the cloth must match the material of the 
coat. 

The front pleat is about 1^ inches from the shoulder 
point; the pocket is moved back a Yz inch to allow the 
pleat to pass. 

The back pleat is the same distance from the armhole 
as the front pleat. 

The center of the pleat at the bottom is at Yz the back 
width. 

The belt is cut twice as wide as made up, and is cut 
across on the cloth the full width of the goods. 

It is considered more stylish to cut the belt length- 
wise, and first-class houses are doing it now. If a belt is 



cut lengthwise it should be the waist width and 12 inches. 
No under-arm cut, but the full width of blade is used. 

A 34 inch is added to front to give chest room. 

The outside breast pocket is inserted in the left breast, 
the opening being under the breast pleat and lengthwise. 
L'sually finished with patch pocket. 

The Norfolks are now being used to a great extent 
and by all classes of people and made up in all kinds of 
manners. The general features of "Norfolks" should be 
of what is termed a bold character. They should be cut 
roomy. The stitching of the edges and pleats should be 
extra wide. All the pockets should be strongly tacked, 
and are best lined with waterproof material. The lining 
is often of flannel, or some such absorbent material. 

When no lining is put in, the seams are taped. The 
material should be a rough make of cheviot or Bannock- 
burn tweed. The buttons are of buflfalo horn. 



§ 1 



COATS 



27 




50. Norfolk coats are frequently finished with yoked 
shoulders — that is, the shoulders are finished plain, the 
same as in ordinary sack coats, while a seam is run across 
the back and forepart about level with the bottom of 
the scye, upon which the lower part of the garment is 
pleated in to any desired style. 

The yoke is by many considered to impart improved 
style ; it certainly is of considerable advantage in allowing 
additional ease over the chest. 

This diagram has an inverted pleat in back and front, 
extending from waist line up to the yoke line. The 



amount of material taken up by the breast pleat, or V, 
must be allowed on to the front edge, starting from the 
bottom button and gradually increased to the desired 
amount at the top. 

The belt is 2 inches wide, or the same width as the 
body pleat. It is perhaps advisable to have the belt sewn 
to the waist of the coat, from the back to within about 3 
inches of the front. By this method the fullness can be 
distributed in a sightly manner and without loss of com- 
fort and style. The lower button should be above the 
belt. The pockets should be well stayed and of good size. 



28 



COATS 



§ 1 




DIAGRAM 9 - NORFOLK PLEATED 



§ 1 



COATS 



29 



Norfolk Pleated 

Diagram 9 



51. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 

Inside sleeve 17^4 inches. Blade (with 134 inches for 

Breast 36 inches. seams added) 12^ inches. 

Waist 32 inches. Depth of scye 9 inches. 

Hip or seat 37 inches. Natural waist 16^ inches. 

Strap 12 inches. Full length 30 inches. 

OvershouldtT 17 inches. Height 5 feet 6 inches. 

Form and attitude, normal. Sizes 33 to 42 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Inverted pleat, 2 inches wide. 

2 Square from A 2 inches from edge of paper. 

3 A to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3^/4 inches (9yij. 

4 This is the proportional and includes all allowances. 

5 A to C is one-fourth height and 34 inches for length. 

6 C to D is 1/3 breast on ■'3rds" (6), Seatline. 

7 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

8 A to E is full length. 

9 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 

10 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths", and 

11 Q to R is Ij^ inches; square up to S, ^ inch. 

12 R to 2 is iy2 inches; square down to 3. 

13 2 to 4 is J/^ pleat (1 inch) 3 to 5 the same. 

14 Draw folding line of pleat from 4 to 5. 

15 4 to 6 and 5 to 7, width of pleat, 2 inches. 

16 Draw folding line of pleat from 6 to 7. 

17 6 to 8 and 7 to 9 each J^ pleat (1 inch). 

18 Draw folding line of pleat from 8 to 9. 

19 A back to 10 is 1 inch; 10 to 11 is the same. 

20 Draw folding lines 10 to 11 — center of Back. 

21 Line 11 is the crease edge of the material. 

22 Trace lines 11, 12, A, 2, 4, 6 and 8. 

23 Fold 10 on A, 1 1 on 10 and 4 on 2 and 6 on 8. 

24 B to K is blade (with I34 inches for seams) (12>4). 

25 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

26 L is half way between B and K. 

27 L to M is lj4 inches — width of Back. 

28 Square up to O and down to N. 

29 P is J4 inch from line O-M ; draw line to N. 

30 K to T is V/2 inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

31 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

32 Draw lines S to U and F to V. 

33 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

34 Rise at X J/2 inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

35 X is yi inch on S-U line — or Style. 

36 Y is yi inch from the O-M line, and 1/12 up from M. 

37 Draw guide line from Y to P. 

38 From B up apply actual depth of scye measure and 

J/2 inch to A ; in normal attitude will meet line A. 

39 The 3/ inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

40 Shape the back as shown ; draw a line from B to W. 



69 



Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V. 

In normal attitude will meet line A-V (13). 

Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to \V and 

K toZ. 
(18) When normal will meet line F-V. 
Z is 134 inches from line K. 
Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

V to point 1 is ^ inch less than S to X. 
Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding 3/2 in. over Z. 

V back to 12 is I34 inches. 
Draw folding line to 13. 

12 to 14 is 1 inch, 13 to 15 is the same. 
Draw folding line 14 to 15. 

14 to 16 is the width of pleat. 

15 to 17 is the same. 
Draw folding line 16 to 17. 

16 to 18 is half width of pleat (1 inch). 

17 to 19 the same, draw folding line. 
Trace lines 12, 14, 16 and 18. 
Fold 14 on 12 and 16 on 18. 

Reduce 34 inch inside of 16 when no underarm cut. 

B to H is 34 full breast measure (18;. 

H to I is 234 inches. 

B to 2 is 34 breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 334 inches. 

This is the normal blade and independent of the 

actual blade, and comes even with K in normal 

sizes. 
Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

4 to 5 is half waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 
Square down from 5 to 7. 

The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is only used 
to obtain the front center of the waist and to 
check the blade measure. 

5 to 8 is 234 inches; 9 to 10 is the same. 
These 234 inches are for seams and make-up. 
(Proportional hip spring 12 to 11 is lj:\ inches.) 
Measure hip and ^ inch for 3 seams, width of Back 

from 12 to D and 10 to 11. 
11 to 12 is 1;M inches; square up, locating 13. 
Draw a line from 13 through 11 to 14. 
Measure waist and I34 inches, P to G and 8 to 16. 

V to 14 is the length from Y to N. 

Shape sideseam of forepart from Y through 16, going 

out ^ inch over 11 to 14 — or Style. 
Z to 7 is the length from Z to E and 1 in. from line K. 
Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower ^ at 17. 

V to 18 is 1/12 breast ; square forward from 18 by K. 

18 to 19 is 34 breast ; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

19 to 20 is 234 inches ; notch 34 inch from 19. 

I to J is 134 inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch; square down. 
Go in 34 inch at 7 ; draw line from 6 and shape front. 

V to 21 is 134 inches ; draw line to end of roll. 



30 



COATS 



§ 1 



Tuxedo Peak 

Diagram 10 



52. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Inside sleeve 17^ inches. Blade (with \}i inches for 



Breast 36 

Waist 32 

Hip or seat 37 
Strap 12 

Over shoulder 17 



inches. seams added) 12^ inches, 

inches. Depth of scye 9 inches, 

inches. Natural waist 16^ inches, 

inches. Full length 30 inches, 

inches. Height 5 feet 6 inches. 



Form and attitude, normal. Sizes, 33 to 42 breast. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A. 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3yS inches (9J/2). 

3 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

4 A to C is one-fourth height, and >4 '"ch for curve 

of Back. 

5 C to D is 1/3 breast, on "iRDs" {6) Seatline. 

6 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

7 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

8 F is half between B and A, for front shoulder height. 

9 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 

10 C to G is >4 inch, draw line F to G and down to E. 

11 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

12 B to H is half the full breast masure. (18j. 

13 H to I is 2^4 inches — center of breast. 

14 B to K is blade (with 1J4 inches for seams). (12>4). 

15 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

16 L is half-way between B and K. 

17 L to M is 1^4 inches — width of Back. 

18 Square up to O, and down to N. 

19 P is jX inch from Line O-M ; draw line to N. 

20 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths/' and 

21 Q to R is 1>4 inches; square up to S, % inches. 

22 K to T is 1>4 inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

23 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

24 V is located on lines from K and A. 

25 Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. 

26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

27 Rise at X "^ inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

28 X is >4 inch on the S-U line— or Style. 

29 Y is J/2 inch from the O-N line, and 1/12 up from M. 

30 Draw guide line from Y to P. 

31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and >4 inch 

(9>1) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 

32 The y2 inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

33 Shape the Back as shown ; drawn line from B to W. 

34 Apply strap measure, and 1 inch A to R and K to V 

(13) in normal attitude will meet line A-V. 

35 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch (18) B to 

W and K to Z ; when normal, meet line F-V. 

36 Z is lyi inches from line K. 

37 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

38 V to point 1 is ^ inch less than S to X. 



39 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

40 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding >4 in. over Z 

41 Z to 2 is >2 breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3>4 inches. 

42 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

43 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

44 4 to 5 is J^ waist — on "halves"— center of waist. 

45 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5, is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

46 5 to 8 is 2y2 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 

47 These 2J/ inches are for seams and make-up. 

48 Apply hip measure and % inch for 3 seams ; width of 

Back from 12 to D and 10 to 11. (19>4). 

49 11 to 12 is 1^ inches; square up, locating 13. 

50 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11 is 1^ inches.) 

51 Draw a line from 13 through 11 to 14. 

52 Measure waist and 1>2 inches P to G and 8 to 16. 

53 Y to 14 is the length from Y to N. 

54 Shape side seam of forepart from Y to 16, going out 

ys inch over 11 to 14 — or style. 

55 (Reduce J4 in. from Y to 16 when no underarm cut.) 

56 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. 

57 The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 

58 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower f^ at 17. 

59 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; and ^4 in. square from 18 

by K. 

60 18 to 19 is J4 breast; less /2 inch. 

61 Draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

62 The end of the roll can be 1^/2 inches below the na- 

tural waist line, corresponding to the fashion 
waist length on Dress Coat; or the second button 
on the Vest ; 2y inches below the natural waist 
line. 

63 V to 21 is 134 inches; draw a line to end of roll, 

rounding 3/ inch over the breast. 

64 Square forward from crease line the amount of op- 

ening (2 inches) as to 19; draw a straight line to 
end of roll. 

65 This forms the finished crease line. 

66 From line 19 on gorge line to 20 is the distance from 

the break-line to the notch. 

67 Draw a line from 19 through 20 to 26. 

68 20 to 26 is 2 inches; rise from 26 — IJ^ inches. 

69 To 19 add 2 seams and draw parallel line. 

70 Shape the lapel as shown on diagram ; either straight 

or curved line from 19 down. 

71 The forepart is cut in the crease line and ends in a 

curved line under the lapel. 

72 The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and y inch from K, 

and finished with a welt 1|4 inches wide. 

73 Go in IJ^ inches at 7; draw line from 5 and shape 

front. 



§ 1 



Coats 



31 




32 



COATS 



§ 1 




§ 1 



COATS 



33 



Tuxedo Shawl 

Diagram 11 



53. The measures are taken over tlie Vest always. 

Inside sleeve 17^ inches. Blade (with lj4 inches for 

Breast' 36 inches. seams added) 1 2 j/2 inches. 

Waist 32 inches. Depth of scye 9 inches. 

Hip or seat 37 inches. Natural waist 16% inches. 

Strap 12 inches. Full length 30 inches. 

Over shoulder 17 inches. Height 5 feet 6 inches. 

Form and attitude, normal. Sizes, 33 to 42 breast. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A. 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3}^ inches (9>^). 

3 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

4 A to C is one-fourth height, and j/4 inch for curve 

of Back (16%). 

5 C to D is 1/3 breast, on "3rds" (6) seatline. 

6 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

7 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

8 F is half between B and A, for front shoulder height. 

9 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 

10 C to G is y2 inch, draw line F to G and down to E. 

11 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

12 B to H is half the full breast measure. 

13 H to I is 2% inches — center of breast. 

14 B to K is blade (with 1% inches for seams). 

15 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

16 L is half-way between B and K. 

17 L to M is 1% inches— width of Back. 

18 Square up to O, and down to N. 

19 P is ^ inch from line O-M ; draw line to N. 

20 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths/' and 

21 Q to R is iy2 inches; square up to S, ^ inch. 

22 K to T is V/i inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

23 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

24 V is located on lines from K and A. 

25 Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. 

26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

27 Rise at X ■/ inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

28 X is yi inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

29 Y is i^ inch from the O-N line, and 1/12 up from M. 

30 Draw guide line from Y to P. 

31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and >4 inch 

(9>^) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 

32 The J/2 inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

33 Shape the Back as shown; draw line from B to .W. 

34 Apply strap measure, and 1 inch A to R and K to V 

(13) in normal attitude will meet line A-V. 



35 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch (18) B to W 

and K to Z ; when normal, meet line F-V. 

36 Z is 1% inches from line K. 

37 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

38 V to point 1 is J^ inch less than S to X. 

39 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

40 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding yi in. over Z. 

41 B to 2 is ^ breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3j/2 inches. 

42 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

43 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

44 4 to 5 is J/2 waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

45 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5, is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

46 5 to 8 is 234 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 

47 These 2}^ inches are for seams and make-up. 

48 Apply hip measure and % inch for 3 seams; width 

of Back from 12 to D and 10 to 11 (19%). 

49 11 to 12 is 1% inches; square up, locating 13. 

50 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11 is 1% inches.) 

51 Draw a line from 13 through 11 to 14. 

52 Measure waist and Ij/S inches P to G and 8 to 16. 

53 Y to 14 is the length from Y to N. 

54 Shape side seam of forepart from Y to 16, going out 

ys inch over 1 1 to 1^1 — or Style. 

55 (Reduce J4 in. from Y to 16 when no underarm cut.) 

56 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. 

57 The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 

58 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower ^ at 17. 

59 V to 18 is 1/12 breast, plus >4 inch. 

60 Square forward from 18 by K. 

61 18 to 19 is % breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

62 I to J is % inch, 5 to 6 is 1% inches. 

63 Go in I,'/' at 7; draw line from 5 and shape front. 

64 \' to 21 is 1% inches; draw line to end of roll round- 

ing J/2 inch over breast. 

65 The end of the roll can be IJ^ inches below the na- 

tural waist line, corresponding to the fashion 
waist length on Dress Coat, or the second button 
on the \'est, 2^4 in. below the natural waist line. 

67 The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and y inch from K 

and finished with a welt 1% inches wide. 

68 The Collar— 21 to 28 equal A to R. 

69 28 to 29 is ^ inch. 

70 Square from 21 through 29 for stand, 1% inches. 

71 29 to 30 is 1% inches— 21 to 26 is the same. 

72 Draw line from 26 through 6 and shape as shown. 



34 



COATS 



§ 1 



Disproportion Sack 



Diagram 12 



54. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 

Inside sleeve 17f^ inches. Stooping 3<2 inch. 

Breast 36 inches. Blade (with 1^ inches for 

Waist 32 inches. seams added) 12 "X inches. 

Hip or seat 37 inches. Depth of scye 9^ inches. 

Strap 11^ inches. Natural waist 17 inches. 

Over shoulder 17 inches. Full length 30 inches. 
Height 5 feet 6 inches. 

Supplementary measures : 
Front waist Syi inches. Back waist 7/2 inches. 

In breast sizes ranging from 33 to 42 breasts. 

This is a form frequently met with and is considered 
very hard to fit. 

In taking the measures extend the square downward 
from in front of the arm and mark back of the square, 
at the waist-line. Measure from this line to center of 
waist in front ; and to center of back ; which added to- 
gether should be half the waist measure 

This form may be described as — Head erect, dip neck 
or round back, blade normal, waist forward, seat normal ; 
appearing what is commonly called sway-back. 

It is common to those who do not preform muscular 
work, people of sedentary habits, and persons subjected 
to prolonged standing on their feet, including a great 
majority of city people, in addition to other abnormalities. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A. 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3j^ inches (9>S). 

3 This is the proportional and includes all allowances. 

4 A to C is one-fourth height and ^i inch for curve 

of back. 

5 C to D is 1/3 breast — on "3rds" (6) Seatline. 

6 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

7 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

8 F is half normal A to B, for front shoulder height. 

9 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3, 4 and 5. 

10 C to G is J/ inch, draw line F to G and down to E. 

11 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

12 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

13 H to I is 2>^ inches — center of breast. 

14 B to K is blade with lj4 inches for seams (12>^). 

15 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

16 L is half-way between B and K. 

17 L to M is 1>4 inches — width of Back. 

18 Square up to O, and down to N. 

19 P is >^ inch from line 0-M ; draw line to N. 

20 A to Q is 1/12 breast— on "12ths" and 

21 Q to R is 1>^ inches; square up to S, ^ inch. 

22 K to T is lyi inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 



23 Square up from U to V — locating the shoulder point. 

24 Draw lines from S to U and F to V. 

25 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

26 Rise atX yi inch and lower at point 1 the same. 

27 X is yi inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

28 Y is >4 inch from the O-M line, and 1/12 up from M. 

29 Draw guide line from Y to P and P to N. 

30 From B up apply actual depth of scye and >^ in. (10). 

When attitude is normal will meet line A. 

31 The y2 inch if for fulness held in over the blade. 

32 Lay square on 5, O and F, and square lines O, 5, F. 

33 Obtain point S from 5 and shape 5, S to X. 

34 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

35 Apply strap measure and 1 inch, A to R and K to V 

(12%) ; when normal meet line A-V. 

36 Advance V from line U-V, as much as below line A. 

37 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

K to Z (18) ; when normal will meet line F-V. 

38 Z is \j4 inches from line K. 

39 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

40 V to point 1 is y& inch less than S to X. 

41 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

42 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding >4 in. over Z. 

43 B to 2 is >1 breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3>4 inches. 

44 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

45 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

46 4 to 5, apply the front waist measure (8J/2 inches). 

47 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is only used to obtain the front 
center of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

48 5 to 8 is 2y2 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 

49 Apply hip measure and % inch for 3 seams; width 

of Back from 12 to D and from 10 to 11 (19>4). 

50 11 to 12 is I44 inches, square up, locating 13. 

51 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11 is l-^ inches.) 

52 Draw a line from 13 through 11 to 14. 

53 Apply waist measure and Vy in., P to G and 8 to 16. 

54 Y to 14 is the length from Y to N. 

55 Shape sideseam of forepart from Y to 16 going out 

ys inch over 11 to 14 — to Style. 

56 Draw line 15 and take out a J4 to J^ inch. 

57 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. 

58 The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 

59 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom, lower % at 17. 

60 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

61 18 to 19 is j4 breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

62 19 to 20 is 234 inches, or Style ; notch y, in. from 19. 

63 I to J is 1J4 inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch; square down. 

64 Go in J/^ inch at 7, draw line from 6 and shape front. 

65 V to 21 is \y inches; draw a line to end of roll. 

66 The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and y inch from K. 

67 (For double breasted add 2%. inches to the front.) 



COATS 



35 




DIAGRAM 12 - DISPROPORTION SACK 



36 



COATS 



§ 1 




DIAGRAM 13 -TALL AND SLIM 



§ 1 



COATS 



37 



Tall and Slim 

Diagram 13 



55. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 

Inside sleeve 19>4 inches. Blade (with 1^ inches for 

Breast 36 inches. seams added) 12^ inches. 

Waist 31 inches. Depth of scye 9]^ inches. 

Hip or seat 38 inches. Natural waist 18^ inches. 

Strap llYz inches. Full length 33 inches. 

Over shoulder \7}i inches. Height 6 feet inches. 

Form and Attitude normal. Sizes, 33 to 38 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from 3. 

2 3 to B is 1/3 breast on ■'3rds" and Zyz inches (9>2). 

3 B to 4 is 1/3 breast on "3rds" of height, and 3^ 

inches (10>4). 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional and includes all allowances. 
C A to C is one-fourth height, and J4 inch, for length. 

7 C to D is 1/3 breast, on "3rds"' (6) Seatline. 

8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back (33). 

10 F is half between A and B, for front shoulder height. 

11 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F and 3. 

12 C to G is ^ inch; draw line F to G and down to E. 

13 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

14 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

15 H to I is 2J4 inches — center of breast. 

16 B to K is blade (with 1^4 inches for seams) (12>4). 

17 Square up from K^front of armhole. 

18 L is half way between B and K. 

19 L to M is 1>4 inches— width of Back. 

20 Square up to O, and down to N. 

21 P is 3^ inch from line O-M ; draw line to N. 

22 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths" and 

23 Q to R is V/i inches ; square up to S, J^ inch. 

24 K to T is V/i inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

25 Square up to V from U — locating the shoulder point. 

26 V is located on lines from K and A through line 3. 

27 Draw lines from S to U and F to V. 

28 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

29 Rise at X 3^ inch and lower at point 1 the same. 

30 X is Yz inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

31 Y is Yz inch from the O-M line and 1/12 up from M. 

32 Draw ouide line from Y to P and P to N. 



From B up apply depth of scye measure, and Yi 
in. to A in normal attitude, will meet line A (10). 

Tlie Y^ '"ch is for fulness held in over the blade. 

Shape the Back as shown; draw line from B to \V. 

Apply strap measure and 1 inch, A to R and K to 
V (13j^), in normal attitude will meet hne A-V. 

Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to \V and 
K to Z; when normal will meet line F-V (18)4)- 

Z is 1^4 inches from line K. 

Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

V to point 1 is ^ inch less than S to X. 
Draw a line from point 1 to T. 

Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding ^4 in. over Z. 
B to 2 is >4 breast on "halves"; 2 to K is 3J/2 inches. 
This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade and comes even with K in normal sizes. 
Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

4 to 5 is J/^ waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 
Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is only used to obtain the front 
center of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

5 to 8 is 2Y2 inches, 9 to 10 the same. 

Apply hip measure and J^ inch for 3 seams; width 
of Back from 12 to D and from 10 to 11 (add 
^s inch). 

11 to 12 is 1^ inches, square up, locating 13. 

Proportional hip spring 12 to 11 is 1^ inches.) 

Draw a line from 13 through 11 to 14. 

Measure waist and 1}4 inches P to G and 8 to 16. 

V to 14 is the length from Y to N. 

Shape sideseam of forepart from Y to 16 going out 

y& inch over 11 to 14 — to Style. 
Draw line 15 and take out a J4 inch; pleat at 33. 
(Reduce Y2 in. from Y to 16 when no underarm cut.) 
Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 in. from line K. 
The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 
Draw line 14 to 7 ; shape bottom, lower % at 17. 

V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

18 to 19 is Ya breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

19 to 20 is 2Ya inches, or Style ; notch J/2 in. from 19. 
I to J is 134 inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch; square down. 
Go in 3/2 inch at 7 ; draw line from 6 and shape front. 

V to 21 is 134 inches; draw a line to end of roll. 
The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and Y^ '"ch from K. 
(For dou1)le breasted add 2Ya inches to the front.) 



38 



COATS 



§ 1 



Short and Stout 

Diagram 14 



56. The measures are 
Inside sleeve 17^ inches. 
Breast 42 inches. 

Waist 40 inches. 

Hip or seat 43 inches. 
Strap 13 m inches. 

Over shoulder 18^ inches. 
Corpulent, 1 degree. 
Form and Attitude, erect 



taken over the Vest always. 

Blade (with 1^ inches for 
seams added) 13^ inches. 
Depth of scye 9^ inches. 
Natural waist 16>4 inches. 
Full length 30 inches. 
Height 5 feet 6 inches. 

Sizes, 36 to 46 breast. 



To Draft. 

1 Square both wajs from 6. 

2 6 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and S'/z inches (10>4). 

3 B to 7 is 1/3 breast of height, and 3>4 inches (9>^). 

4 A is half way between 7 and 6. 

5 This is the proportional and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one- fourth height, and }i inch ; for length 

7 C to D is 1/3 breast — on "3rds" (7) seatline. 

8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

10 F is half between 6 and B, for front shoulder height. 

11 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F and 6. 

12 C to G is 3/2 inch ; draw line F to G and down to E. 

13 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

14 B to H is half the full breast measure (21). 

15 H to I is 2^ inches — center of breast. 

16 R to K is blade (with 1J4 inches for seams, 13-)4)- 

17 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

18 L is halfway between B and K. 

19 L to M is 1>4 inches— width of back. 

20 Square up to O, and down to N. 

21 P is 3/^ inch from line O-M ; draw line to N 

22 A to Q is 1/12 breast — "12ths" and 

23 Q to R is 1^<2 inches; square up to S, ^^s inch. 

24 K to T is lyi inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

25 Square up to V from U — locating the shoulder point. 

26 V is located on lines from K and 6. 

27 Draw lines from S to U and F to V. 

28 This give the proportional height of shoulders. 

29 Rise at X J/^ inch and lower at point 1 the same. 

30 X is J4 inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

31 Y is 1/2 inch from the O-M line, and 1/12 up from M. 

32 Draw guide line from Y to P and P to N. 

33 From B up apply depth of scye measure, and yi inch 

to 8 {9}i) ; in normal attitude, will meet line A. 



34 The J/2 inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

35 Obtain point S from 8 and shape 8, S to X. 

36 Shape the Back as shown; draw line from B to W. 

37 Apply strap measure and 1 inch, A to R and K 

to V (14^) ; when attitude is normal will meet 
line 6-K. 

38 Go back from K-V line 3/2 as much as above line V-6. 

39 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch (19%) B to 

W and K to Z ; when normal will meet Une F-V. 

40 Z is 134 inches from line K. 

41 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

42 V to point 1 is % inch less than S to X. 

43 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

44 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding }A in. over Z. 

45 B to 2 is 1/2 breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is S'/z inches. 

46 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

47 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

48 4 to 5 is 3^2 waist on "halves" — center of waist. 

49 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is only used to obtain the front 
center of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

50 5 to 8 is 2 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 

51 These 2 inches are for seams and make-up. 

52 Corpulency : Measure the waist first and obtain the hip 

spring from it. This rule applies where the waist 
is even, or more, than the breast. 

53 Measure waist and 1^4 inches P to G and 8 to 16. 

54 Square down from 16 to 12; 12 to 11 is 1% inches. 

55 (Proportional hip spring, 12 to 11 is 1% inches.) 

56 Draw a line from 16 through 11 to 14. 

57 Y to 14 is the length from Y to N. 

58 Shape sideseam of forepart from Y to 16, going out 

^ inch over 11 to 14 — or Style. 

59 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. 

60 The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 

61 Draw line 14 to 7, shape the bottom; lower ^ at 17. 

62 Measure hip and % inch for 3 seams ; width of back 

from 12 to D, and from 10 to 11. 

63 Open at 2 the amount of seat surplus and fold 33 

on 34. 

64 By cutting to pocket and front of pocket. 

65 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

66 18 to 19 is % breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

67 19 to 20 is 234 inches, or Style ; notch 14 in. from 19. 

68 I to J is 1 34 inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch; square down. 

69 Go in y^ inch at 7, draw line from 6 and shape front. 

70 V to 21 is 1% inches; draw line to end of roll. 

71 The pocket as usual ; draw line from K to 33. 

72 One button ; go in 1 inch between waist and seatline. 

73 For chesty coats or curved lapel cut a F in gorge. 



COATS 



39 




DIAGRAM 14 SHORT AND STOUT 



40 



COATS 



§ 1 




\ I 



DIAGRAM 15 -CORPULENT 2 DEGREE 



§ 1 



COA'J'S 



41 



Corpulent Sack 

Diagram 15 



57. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 



Inside sleeve 

Breast 

Waist 

Hip or seat 

Strap 



18^ inches. 
44 inches. 

44 inches. 

45 inches. 
I3y2 inches. 



Over shoulder 19>^ inches. 
Corpulent 2 degrees. 

Form and Attitude, stooping. 



Blade (with l^^ inches for 
seams added) 14}4 inches. 
Depth of scye 10>^ inches. 
Natural waist 17^ inches. 
Full length 32 inches. 
Height 5 feet 10 inches. 



Sizes, 42 to 52 breast. 



To Draft. 



1 Square both ways from 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and Syi inches {lOji). 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast on "3rds" of height, and Syi 

inches (10^) ; A is half way between 3 and 4. 

4 This is the proportional and includes all allowances. 

5 A to C is one- fourth height, and ^ inch; for length. 

6 C to D is 1/3 breast — on "3rds" {7yi) Seat line. 

7 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

8 A to E is the Full Length of Back (32). 

9 F is half between 4 and B, for front shoulder height. 

10 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

11 C to G is ^ inch; draw line F to G and down to E. 

12 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

13 B to H is half the full breast measure (22). 

14 H to I is 2^4 inches — center of breast. 

15 B to K is blade (with 1J4 inches for seams) (14^). 

16 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

17 L is half way between B and K. 

18 L to M is 114 inches— width of Back. 

19 Square up to O, and down to N. 

20 P is J4 inch from line 0-N ; draw line to N. 

21 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths" and 

22 Q to R is l^ inches; square up to S, ^ inch. 

23 Advance upper part from K 1/16 inch each size 

above 4 inches less than breast, to straighten the 
front run ; take it out in the underarm cut as 
shown by shaded part on diagram. 

24 K to T is 134 inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

25 Square up to V from U — locating the shoulder point. 

26 V is located on lines from U and 4. 

27 Draw lines from S to U and F to V. 

28 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

29 Rise at X J/2 inch and lower at point 1 the same. 

30 X is 54 inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

31 Y is y, inch from the O-N line, and 1/12 up from M. 

32 Draw guide lines from Y to P and P to N. 

33 From B up apply depth of scye measure, and j/i 

inch to 5 (11) ; when normal attitude, will meet 
line A. 



34 The '/i inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

35 Lay square on 5, O and F, and square lines 0, 5 and F. 

36 Obtain point S from 5 and shape 5, S to X. 

37 Shape the Back as shown; draw line from B to W. 

38 Apply strap measure and 1 inch, A to R and K to 

V (14>^); when attitude is normal will meet 
line 4-V. 

39 Advance V from line U-V as much as below line 4. 

40 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

K to Z (lOyi) ; when normal will meet line F-V. 

41 Z is 1^ inches from line K. 

42 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

43 V to point 1 is }i inch less than S to X. 

44 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

45 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding yi in. over Z. 

46 B to 2 is 1/2 breast on "halves"; 2 to K is 3^/^ in. 

47 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

48 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

49 4 to 5 is 34 waist on "halves — center of waist. 

50 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is only used to obtain the front 
center of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

51 5 to 8 is 2 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 

52 These 2 inches are for seams and make-up. 

53 Corpulency: Measure the waist first and obtain the 

hip spring from it. This rule applies where the 
waist is even, or more, than the breast. 

54 Measure waist and 1% inches P to G and 8 to 16. 

55 Square down from 16 to 12; 12 to 11 is 1;4 inches. 

56 (Proportional hip spring, 12 to 11 is 1^ inches.) 

57 Draw a line from 16 through 11 to 14. 

58 Y to 14 is the length from Y to N. 

59 Shape sideseam of forepart from Y to 16, going out 

^ inch over 11 to 14 — or Style. 

60 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. 

61 The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 

62 Draw line 14 to 7, shape the bottom ; lower ^ at 17. 

63 Measure hip and ^ inch for 3 seams ; width of Back 

from 12 to D, and from 10 to 11. 

64 Draw line 15 and take out the shaded part. 

65 Open at 2 the amount of seat surplus and fold 33 

on 34 by cutting to pocket and front of pocket. 

66 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

67 18 to 19 is }i breast; draw Hne from 19 to I and 5. 

68 Advance at I the amount from K, shaded part. 

69 19 to 20 is 2>4 inches, or Style ; notch yi in. from 19. 

70 I to J is lj4 inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch; square down. 

71 Go in J^ inch at 7, draw line from 6 and shape front. 

72 V to 21 is \j4 inches; draw line to end of roll. 

73 The pocket as usual; draw line from K to 33. 

74 One button. Go in 1 inch between waist and seatline. 



42 



COATS 



Corpulent Sack 

Diagram 16 



58. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 

Inside sleeve 18>4 inches. Blade (with 1% inches for 

Breast 52 inches. seams added) 16^ inches. 

Waist 56^ inches. Depth of scye 10% inches. 

Hip or seat 53 inches. Natural waist 17^ inches. 

Strap 15% inches. Full length 32 inches. 

Over shoulder 22 inches. Height 5 feet 10 inches. 
Corpulent 3 degrees. 



Form and Attitiule, normal. 



Sizes, 42 to 52 breast. 



To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3>4 inches (12%). 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and Syi inches (9>^). 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one- fourth height, and ^ inch; for curve 

of Back. 

7 C to D is 1/3 breast on "3rds'' (8%) Seatline. 

8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

9 A to E- is the Full Length of Back. 

10 F is half between 4 and B, for front shoulder height. 

11 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

12 C to G is J4 inch; draw line F to G and down to E. 

13 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

14 B to H is half the full breast measure (26). 

15 H to I is 2^4 inches — center of breast. 

16 B to K is blade (with 1^ inches for seams) (163/2). 

17 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

18 L is half way between B and K. 

19 L to M is 1J4 inches — width of Back. 

20 Square up to O, and down to P. 

21 F is yi inch from line O-M ; draw line to N. 

22 4 to Q is 1/12 breast— on "12ths" and 

23 Q to R is ly2 inches; square up to s, % inch. 

24 Advance upper part from K 1/16 inch each size 

above 4 inches less than breast, to straighten the 
front run ; take it out in the underarm cut as 
shown by shaded part on diagram. 

25 K to T is ly, inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

26 Square up to V from U — locating the shoulder point. 

27 V is located on lines from U and 4. 

28 Draw lines from s to U and F to V. 

29 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

30 Rise at X 3^2 inch and lower at point 1 the same. 

31 X is yi inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

32 Y is >4 in. from the O-M line, and 1/12 up from M. 

33 Draw guide lines from Y to P and P to N. 

34 From B up apply depth of scye measure, and yi inch 

to A (11%) ; when normal attitude, will meet 
line A. 



35 The 3/2 inch for fullness held in over the blade. 

36 Obtain point S from half s-s, and shape A, S to X. 

37 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

38 Apply strap measure and 1 inch, A to R and K 

to V (16%) ; when attitude is normal will meet 
line 4-V. 

39 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

K to Z (23) ; when normal will meet line F-V. 

40 Z is 134 inches from line K. 

41 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

42 V to point 1 is % inch less than S to X. 

43 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

44 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding 3<2 in. over Z. 

45 B to 2 is 34 breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 334 inches. 

46 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

47 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

48 4 to 5 is 34 waist on "halves" — center of waist. 

49 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is only used to obtain the front 
center of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

50 5 to 8 is 2 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 

51 These 2 inches are for seams and make-up. 

52 Corpulency :" Measure the waist first and obtain the 

hip spring from it. This rule applies where the 
waist is even, or more, than the breast. 

53 Measure waist and I34 inches P to G and 8 to 16. 

54 Square down from 16 to 12; 12 to 11 is 1% inches. 

55 (Proportional hip spring; 12 to 11 is 1;4 inches.) 

56 Draw a line from 16 through 11 to 14. 

57 Y to 14 is the length from Y to N. 

58 Shape sideseam of forepart from Y to 16 going out 

% inch over 11 to 14 — or Style. 

59 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from 

line K. 

60 The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 

61 Draw line 14 to 7, shape the bottom ; lower % at 17. 

62 Measure hip and ^ inch for 3 seams ; width of 

back from 12 to D, and from 10 to 11. 

63 Draw line 15 and take out the shaded part. 

64 Open at 2 the amount of seat surplus and fold 33 on 

34 by cutting to pocket and front of pocket. 

65 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

66 18 to 19 is 34 breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

67 Advance at 1 the amount from K, shaded part. 

68 19 to 20 is 2}i inches, or Style; notch >4 in. from 19. 

69 I to J is \}i inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch; square down. 

70 Go in 34 inch at 7, draw line from 6 and shape front. 

71 V to 21 is 134 inches; draw line to end of roll. 

72 The pocket as usual; draw line from K to 33. 

73 One Button. Go in 1 inch between waist and seatline. 



§ 1 



COATS 



43 




DIAGRAM 16 CORPULENT 3 DEGREE 



COATS 



§ 1 




DIAGRAM 17 -MILITARY BLOUSE 



§ 1 



COATS 



45 



Military Blouse 

Diagram 17 



59. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 



Inside sleeve 

Breast 

Waist 

Hip or seat 

Strap 

Over shoulder 



17% inches. 

36 inches. 
31 inches. 

37 inches. 
\2y2 inches. 

17 inches. 
Form ant! attitude, erect. 



Blade (with 1J4 inches for 
seams added) 12^ in. 
Depth of scye 8% inches. 
Natural waist IGj/^ inches. 
Full length 29 inches. 

Height 5 feet 6 inches. 
Sizes, ii to 42 breasts. 



To Draft. 

1 Square botii ways from A or 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3^ inches (9j/2). 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height and 3>^ inches. 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one-fourth height and 34 'nch for curve of 

Back (16%). 

7 C to D is 1/3 breast, on "3rds" (6) seat line. 

8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back (29). 

10 F is half between B and 4 for front shoulder height. 

1 1 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

12 C to G is % inch ; draw line A to G and down to E. 

13 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

14 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

15 H to I is 2y2 inches, center of breast. 

16 B to K is blade (with \%. inches for seams) (12^). 

17 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

18 L is half way between B and K. 

19 L to M is 1% inches — width of Back. 

20 Square up to O and down to N, locating 16. 

21 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths" — and 

22 Q to R is \y2 inches; square up to S, y& inch. 

23 K to T is l^ inches; T to U is 1-12 breast. 

24 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

25 V is located on lines from K and 4. 

26 Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. 

27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

28 Rise at X % inch and lower at point 1 the same. 

29 X is % inch on the S-U line. 

30 Y is >^ inch from the O-N line, and 1/6 up from M. 

31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and J/2 inch 

(9^) to A in normal attitude will meet line A. 
i2 The Yz inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

33 Obtain point S from A and shape A S to X. 

34 Shape the Back as shown; draw line from B to W. 

35 Apply strap measure, and 1 inch A to R and K to V 

(13>4) in normal attitude will meet line 4-V. 

36 Go back from K-V line as much as above line V-4, 

or y2 as much from line U. 
i7 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch (18) B to 
W and K to Z ; when normal, meet line F-V. 

38 Z is 1J4 inches from line K. 

39 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

40 V to point 1 is % inch less than S to X. 

41 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 



42 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding i^ in. over Z. 

43 B to 2 is >4 breast on "halves"; 2 to K is 3% inches. 

44 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

45 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

46 4 to 5 is j/2 waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

47 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center 
of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

48 5 to 8 is 2 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 

49 These 2 inches are for seams and make-up. 

50 M to 42 is y& breast ; N to 43 is the same. 

51 22 is half way between G and 16. 

52 P is half way between 16 and 22. 

53 Draw a line from M through P to 14. 

54 Shape the Back and side seam. 

55 Apply waist measure net 22 to G and 8 to P. 

56 Draw line 15 and take out the surjjlus (%) half on 

each side of 15. 

57 Add a J4 'nch on each side of 13. 

58 Draw lines from 15 through 13, locating H and 34. 

59 Shape the underarm cut from 44. 

60 14 to 42 equal to 14 to 43. 

61 Z to 34 equals Z to 14. 

62 Z to 7 equals Z to E from line K. 

63 Shape bottom 14 to 34 and 33 to 7. 

64 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

65 18 to 19 is J4 breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

66 19 to 20 and I to J are 1 inch. 

67 Shape the gorge and front. Add a >4-inch stand. 

68 In shaping the gorge for erect, the curve must fall 

into the normal, % inch from junction U-18 line. 

69 The opening for the sword is half on each side of 

seat line and 6 inches long, finished with a loose 
facing or flap. 

70 4 buttons, about 4% inches apart, and 2 hooks below. 

Collars 

60. It is surprising how indifferent the cutters usually 
are about the collar, as if it was of little consequence 
how it is cut, either long or short, or round, or straight, 
so long as it has the appearance of a collar ; or else let the 
journeyman fashion it himself from the cloth furnished 
him by the cutter. 

It should be patent that if a long collar is correct, a 
short collar will not do, and vice versa. That there is 
such a thing as a correct collar, or that it can be cut to 
be exactly like the balance of the coat, seems to have 
escaped their observation. As a rule, only in wholesale 
clothing is an attempt made to cut them to fit. We say 
attempt advisedly, because from experience the so-called 
first-class houses do not cut them exactly as they ought 
to go in or on the coat ; and why not ? 

We will proceed to show, and prove that it can be 
done. 



46 



COATS 



§ 1 



Collars — Diagram 18 

61. Place the flrst button; or the end of the roll as 
desired. 

Place the square with lj4 inches mark on point V 
and the long arm of the square at the end of the roll. 

The corner of the square thereby establishes point 
A. Mark from V through A to end of roll. Do not 
make the mistake and go out from point V l}i inches 
and then draw the crease line. 

Point A is as much a point in this case as point V. 

Measure the width of back from A to R with the 
square in 36 size 3 inches; move the square up 3 inches 
and let the corner rest on Point B. 

Mark down to C ^ inch while the square is lying on 
point B and the crease line. Move the corner of the 
square down to point C and the long arm touching point 
A and mark from C to A. This is the collar break line. 

While the square is in this position (corner on C and 
arm on A) mark down to D 1^ inches. This is for the 
stand of the collar. Pull the square up and mark a line 
parallel with C-A from D past V. 

Square up from D through C to E. C to E is width 
desired. Square from B. At the notch of the coat rise 
a ^ inch to the collar and make the collar ^^ inch longer 
from the notch out. For a seam collar add a j4 inch 
more. 

The leaf is width desired ; shape from E. Shape from 
D, allowing an y^ inch opposite V, which, when stretched, 
will disappear, striking the gorge at the break line, and 
continue to the end of the collar. This completes the 
collar. When the end of the collar is brought back to 
the notch of the coat, the difference from where the collar 
break line is to the coat break line is the amount of ful- 
ness that particular collar needs according to the length 
of roll. The outside leaf of the collar is not stretched at 
all ; the underside or stand is stretched until it has the 
same length as the outside. 

This collar can now be put on, shaped before or after 
putting on, and the top collar put on without an iron put 
on the under collar. 

The coat will hug the linen collar clear around to the 
break line and not appear as if the coat hung on the col- 
lar button by the hanger, like some of them do. 

Collars — Diagram 19 

62. Sliows the different lengths of roll, all obtained 
as previously explained. The longer the roll the shorter 
the outside length, as shown by the circle and dash line. 
The amount of fullness and length of the collar regulates 
itself every time. 

Military Collar — Diagram 20 

63. Measure the length of the collar on the coat, or 
make it 1 inch more than the linen collar. Example: 
Linen collar, 15 ; coat collar, 16 inches. Draw a line from 
A to E the full length of collar (16). 

E to F is 1^ inches, or width desired. 

Sweep from E to C and E to D, half the length of the 
collar (8 inches) ; pivot at A. This is the lower edge of 
.the collar. 

Sweep from F to G and F to B. 

Draw lines from A through B to D and G to C for 
run of slant in front. 



This is the stand of the collar, and for a military 
standing collar is complete. 

64. Double Collar. — For a double collar cut another 
piece for the leaf the width desired (2;j-4 inches in this 
case). 

The two are sewed together at the top edge, G-F-B, 
with raw edges and 3-ply of canvas in the stand. 

The leaf has a spread of about }i inch opposite C and 
D, or to suit. The broken lines represent the leaf. 

The top collar, represented by the dot and dash lines, 
is cut after the under collar, allowing ^ inch more for 
the leaf and even amount for width of stand. 

The circle cut has the advantage over other methods 
in that it hugs the collar very close at the top edge, which 
is exactly what is wanted for all standing collars. 

The collar is put on without any extra fulness. 

Ulster or Storm Collar — Diagram 21 

65. Read first description for cutting collars on the 
coat collar, and follow it always. 

V to 21 is 1^ inches; draw a line to end of roll, estab- 
lishing 27. 

Draw a line from 27 through V to 28. 

V to 28 equals A to R. 

28 to 29 is % inch; square from V through 29 to 31, 
lyi inches for stand. 

V to 32 is lj4 inches; draw line from 31 through 32 
to 27. 

Square out to 30 by 21-29 for width desired (4 inches 
in this case). 

The leaf is about 2^4 inches wide; allow ^2 inch to 
length for working in. 

From break line to end of collar reduce a J^ inch. 

Fur Collar — Diagram 22 

66. Read description first on coat collar. 

V to 21 is lyl inches; draw a line to end of roll, estab- 
lishing 27. 

Draw a line from 27 through V to 28. 

V to 28 equals A to R. 

28 to 29 is ^ inch; square from V through 29 to 31, 
1_^4 inches for stand. 

V to 32 is 134 inches; draw a line from 31 through 
32 to 27. 

Square out to 30 by 21-29 the width desired (4^ 
inches in this case). 

Shape as represented and cut out the collar. Place 
the collar as cut in position as shown in 

Diagram 23 

67. Square out from 32 through V to 33. 

Sweep from 33 to 34 and from 33 to 35 lyi inches; 
pivot at V. 

Cut the pattern from 33 to 32; lay on another piece 
of paper and open as from 34 to 35 ; pivot at V. 

Diagram 24 

68. Represents the complete collar. The broken lines 
show the stand, as bent over, in which a piece must be 
stoted to give circumference to the stand. 

The stand can be cut with less stand, if desired. 



§ 1 



COATS 



47 






DIAGRAM 18 COLLAR 




DIAGRAM 22, 23, 24 — FUR COLLAR 



DIAGRAM 21 - ULSTER 



48 



COATS 



§ 1 




§ 2 



COATS 



PART TWO 

Cutaway Frock 

Diagram 25 



1. Tlie measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Inside sleeve 17 J4 inches. Blade (with 1^ inches for 
Breast 36 inches seams added) I23/2 inches. 

Waist 32 inches. Depth of scye 9 inches. 

Hip or seat 37 inches. Natural waist \6}4 inches. 
Strap 12 inches. Fashion waist 18^ inches. 

Over shoulder 17 inches. Full length 37 inches. 
Height 5 feet 6 inches. 
Form and Attitude, normal. Sizes 33 to 42 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 .Square both ways from A. 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3>4 inches (9>2). 

3 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

4 A to C is one-fourth height, and j4 inch for length. 

5 A to D is the fashion waist; one-fourth height and 

\y, inches (l&'A). 

6 D to 50 is Ij^ inches, line from A through 50 to E. 

7 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

8 F is half between A and B, for front shoulder height. 

9 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 

10 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

11 H to I is 2^ inches, center of breast. 

12 B to K is blade (with 1% inches for seams). 

13 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

14 L is half way between B and K. 

15 L to M is 1>4 inches — width of Back. 

16 Square up to O and down to P. 

17 F is yi inch from line O-M ; square down to 13. 

18 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "T2ths/' and 

19 Q to R is lyi inches; square up to S, ^ inch. 

20 K to T is ly, inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

21 Square up from U to V — locating the shoulder point. 

22 V is located on lines from U and A. 

23 Draw lines from S to U, F to V and A to K. 

24 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

25 Rise at X 3^ inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

26 X is >4 inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

27 Y is J/ inch from the O-M line. 

28 Draw guide line from X to Y. 

29 From B up apply depth of scye measure and yi inch 

to A; in normal attitude will meet line A (9^). 

30 The J^ inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

31 C to G is 1/16 breast and 1J4 inches. 

32 E to N is the same width as 50 to G, and '2 inch. 

33 Draw a line from G to N and from 

34 49 to G for width of Back over breast-line. 

35 49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 



3b Blade fullness is ^ inch over the rounding. 

37 Shape the back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

38 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to \' ; 

in normal attitude will meet line A-V (13). 

39 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (18). 

40 Z is 1J4 inches from line K. 

41 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

42 V to point 1 is J^ inch less than S to X. 

43 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

44 Shape arm-scye and shoulder, rounding J/2 in. over Z. 

45 B to 2 is 3^ breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3)/^ inches. 

46 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

47 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

48 4 to 5 is "X waist — on ''halves" — center of waist. 

49 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front 
center of waist, and to check the blade measure. 

50 5 to 8 is 214 inches ; 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. 

51 These 2^ inches are for seams and make-up. 

52 G to 22 is 1^4 inches, or 1^4 inches in all sizes to 

allow for blade fullness and % inch for every inch 
the waist is smaller than the breast. 

53 Square up, and down to 23 ; 23 is ^ inch below the 

fashion waist ; or sweep from the Back by Y. 

54 Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16. 

55 Shape side body, reducing }i inch near Y, }i inch at 

breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. 

56 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

57 18 to 19 is 34 breast ; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

58 19 to 20 is 214 inches ; notch y inch from 19. 

59 I to J is 134 inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch. 

60 Draw a line from 13 to 10 and shjipe forepart. 

61 Skirt — square both ways from 23. 

62 23 to 12 is 1/3 breast, and 34 inch. 

63 12 to 11 is 134 inches; 11 to 27 is '.4 inch. 

64 Draw a line from 23 through 11 and 14. 

65 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 

66 23 to bottom is 34 incsh more than D to E. 

67 Lay square on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. 

68 Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. 

69 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. 

70 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1 inch at 17. 

72 Take out a fish Ys inch. 1/6 up from 15. 

73 Go out 3/ from D and line parallel to 50-E. 

74 Reduce 3^ inch at B from A to C. 

75 Shape front run of skirt. 



COATS 



§2 



Cutaway Stout 



Diagram 26 



2. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 

Inside sleeve 18^ inches. Blade (with 1^ inches for 

Breast 42 inches. seams added) 14 inches. 

Waist 40y2 inches. Depth of scye 9ji inches. 

Hip or seat 43 inches. Natural waist 17^ inches. 

Strap I3y2 inches. Fashion waist 19^ inches. 

Over shoulder 19 inches. Full length 39 inches. 

Stout, 1 degree. Height 5 feet 10 inches. 

Form and Attitude, normal. Sizes 40 to 46 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A or 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3j/2 inches. 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and 3^^ inches. 

4 A is half way between 4 and 3. 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one-fourth height, and ^4 '"ch for length. 

7 A to D is the fashion waist; one-fourth height and 

V/2 inches (19>4). 

8 D to 50 is 1)4 inches, line from A through 50 to E. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

10 F is half between 4 and B, for front shoulder height. 

1 1 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

12 B to H is half the full breast measure (21). 

13 H to I is 2)4 inches — center of Breast. 

14 B to K is blade (with 1J4 inches for seams) (14). 

15 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

16 L is half way between B and K. 

17 L to M is 1>^ inches— width of Back. 

18 Square up to O, and down to P. 

19 P is 3/2 inch from line O-M ; square down to 13. 

20 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths," and 

21 Q to R is 15^ inches; square up to S 5^ inch. 

22 K to T is lyz inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

23 Square up from U to V — locating the shoulder point. 

24 V is located on lines from U and A. 

25 Draw lines from S to U, F to V, and A to K. 

26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

27 Rise at X 3^ inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

28 X is 3^ inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

29 Y is J/2 inch from the O-M line. 

30 Draw guide line from X to Y. 

31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and ^4 inch 

to A; in normal attitude will meet line A (10^). 

32 The yi inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

33 C to G is 1/16 breast and 134 inches. 

34 E to N is the same width as 50 to G. and 3^ inch. 

35 Draw a line from G to N and from 

36 49 to G for width of Back over breast line. 

37 49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 

38 Blade fullness is 5-^ inch over the rounding. 



39 Shape the Back as shown; draw line from B to W. 

40 Apply strap maesure and 1 inch A to R and K to V ; 

in normal attitude will meet line 4-V (1434). 

41 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (20). 

42 Z is 134 inches from line K. 

43 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

44 V to point 1 is ^ inch less than S to X. 

45 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

46 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding 3^2 in. over Z. 

47 B to 2 is 34 breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 33^ inches. 

48 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

49 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

50 4 to 5 is 34 waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

51 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front 
center of waist, and to check the blade measure. 

52 5 to 8 is 234 inches ; 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. 

53 These 2)4 inches are for seams and make-up. 

54 G to 22 is I3-2 inches, or 1)4 inches in all sizes to 

allow for blade fullness and }i inch for every 
inch 'the waist is smaller than the breast. 

55 Square up and down to 23 ; 23 is ^ inch below the 

fashion waist; or sweep from the Back by Y. 

56 Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16. 

57 Shape side body by reducing 34 inch near Y, ^ in. at 

breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. 

58 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

59 18 to 19 is 34 breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

60 19 to 20 is 234 inches; notch ^Jj inch from 19. 

61 I to J is 13^2 inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch. 

62 Draw a line from 13 to 10 and shape front. 

63 10 to 35 is 3^ inch; draw line from 13 to 35. 

64 Lay square on 13-36-H and take out a F at 36. 

65 Shape forepart from 13 through 36 to 10. 

66 Advance 23 the amount of V and seams. 

67 Skirt — Square both ways from 23. 

68 23 to 12 is 1/3 breast, and J^ inch. 

69 12 to 11 is 1>4 inches; 11 to 27 is ;54 inch. 

70 Draw a line from 23 through 11 and 14. 

71 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 

72 23 to bottom is 34 inch more than D to E. 

73 Lay square on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. 

74 Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. 

75 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. 

76 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1 inch at 17. 

79 Go out 34> inch from D and line parallel to 50-E. 

80 Reduce 3^ inch at B from A to C. 

81 Shape front run of skirt. 



§2 



COATS 




k - 



DIAGRAM 26 CUTAWAY STOUT 



COATS 



§2 




DIAGRAM 27 CUTAWAY CORPULENT 



§2 



COATS 



Cutaway Corpulent 

Diagram 27 



3. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 

Blade (with Ij^ inches for 
seams added) 14^ inches. 
Depth of scye 10)4 inches. 
Natural waist 18 inches. 
Fashion waist 19^ inches. 
Full length 39^ inches. 
Height 5 feet 11 inches. 
Sizes 40 to 48 breasts. 



Inside sleeve 19 


inches 


Breast 45 


inches. 


Waist 4Sy2 


inches. 


Hip or seat 46 


inches. 


Strap 14 


inches. 



Over shoulder 19^4 inches. 

Corpulent 2 degrees 

Form and Attitude, normal 



To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A or 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on ■'3rds" and 3j^ inches (11). 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and 3>^ inches (10J4)- 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4 (lO;^). 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one-fourth height, and 34 irich for length. 

7 A to D is the fashion waist; one- fourth height and 

ly. inches (19^4). 

8 D to 50 is l}i inches, line from A through 50 to E. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

10 F is half between 4 and B, for front shoulder height. 

11 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

12 B to H is half the full breast measure (22>4). 

13 H to I is 234 inches — center of Breast. 

14 B to K is blade (with I34 inches for seams) (14>^). 

15 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

16 L is half way between B and K. 

17 L to M is ly inches — width of Back. 

18 Square up to O, and down to P. 

19 P is }4 inch from line O-M ; square down to 13. 

20 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths/' and 

21 Q to R is ly inches; square up to S, ^ inch. 

22 Advance from K, 1/16 inch each size above 4 inches 

less than breast; to straighten the front run, take 
it out in the underarm cut as shown by shaded 
part. 

23 K to T is ly inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

24 Square up from U to V — locating the shoulder point. 

25 V is located on lines from U and 4. 

26 Draw lines from S to U, F to V, and A to K. 

27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

28 Rise at X J^ inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

29 X is i^ inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

30 Y is y inch from the O-M line. 

31 Draw guide line from X to Y. 

32 From B up apply depth of scye masure and y inch 

to A; in normal attitude will meet line A (10^). 

33 The y inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

34 C to G is 1/16 breast and ly inches. 

35 E to N is the same width as 50 to G, and y inch. 

36 Draw a line from G to N and from 



37 49 to G for width of Back over breast line. 
36 49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 

39 Blade fullness is ^ inch over the rounding. 

40 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

41 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V; 

in normal attitude will meet line 4-V (15). 

42 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (20^). 

43 Z is ly inches from line K. 

44 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

45 V to point 1 is j^ inch less than S to X. 

46 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

47 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding y in. over Z. 

48 B to 2 is 14 breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3>4 inches. 

49 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

50 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

51 4 to 5 is 34 waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

52 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front 
center of the waist, and to check the blade measure. 

53 5 to 8 is 2 inches ; 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. 

54 These 2 inches are for seams and make-up. 

55 G to 22 is ly inches, or ly inches in all sizes to 

allow for blade fullness and y inch for every inch 
the waist is smaller than the breast. 

56 Square up and down to 23 ; 23 is ^ inch below the 

fashion waist; or sweep from the Back by Y. 

57 Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16. 

58 Shape side body reducing y inch near Y, }i inch at 

breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. 

59 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

60 18 to 19 is y breast ; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

61 Advance at I the amount from K, shaded part. 

62 19 to 20 is 2y inches ; notch y inch from 19. 

63 I to J is 13^ inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch. 

64 Draw a line from 13 to 10 and shape front. 

65 Lay square on 13-36-H and take out a F at 36. 

66 Advance 23 the amount of V and seams. 

67 Skirt — Square both ways from 23. 

68 23 to 12 is 1/3 breast, and y inch. 

69 12 to 11 is ly inches; 11 to 27 is -4 inch. 

70 Draw line from 23 through 11 and 14. 

71 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 

72 23 to bottom is y inch more than D to E. 

73 Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. 

74 Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. 

75 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. 

76 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1 inch at 17. 

79 Go out y from D and line parallel to 50-E. 

80 Reduce y inch at B from A to C. 

81 Shape front run of skirt. 



COATS 



§2 



Full Dress Rever On 



Over shoulder 17 



Form aiK 



4. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Inside sleeve 17^ inches. Blade (with 1^ inches for 
Breast 36 inches. seams added) 12^ inches 

Waist 32 inches. Depth of scye 9 inches. 

Hip or seat 37 inches. Natural waist 16;4 inches. 
Strap 12 inches. Fashion waist 18J^ inches, 

inches. Full length 39 inches. 
Height 5 feet 6 inches 
.\ttitude, normal. .Sizes, 33 to 42 breasts. 
To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A. 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and Syi inches (9>^). 

3 B to A is 1/3 breast of height, and 3|4 inches. 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one-fourth height, and ^ inch for length. 

7 A to D is the fashion waist ; one-fourth height and 

V/2 inches (ISJ^). 

8 D to 50 is 1>4 inches, line from A through 50 to E. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

10 F is half between A and B, for front shoulder height. 

11 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 

12 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

13 H to I is 2j4 inches, center of Breast. 

14 B to K is blade (with 134 inches for seams) (12)4). 

15 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

16 L is half way between B and K. 

17 L to M is 1^ inches— width of Back. 

18 Square up from O, and down to P. 

19 P is J/ inch from line 0-M. Square down to 13. 

20 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths," and 

21 Q to R is l"/2 inches. Square up to S, ^ inch. 

22 K to T is lyi inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

23 Square up from U to V — locating the shoulder point. 

24 V is located on lines from U to A. 

25 Draw lines from S to U, F to V and A to K. 

26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

27 Rise at X J/j inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

28 X is 1/ inch on the S-U line— or Style. 

29 Y is yz inch from the 0-M Line. 

30 Draw guide line from X to Y. 

31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and yi inch 

to A, in normal attitude will meet line A (9^). 

32 The yl inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

33 C to G is 1/16 breast and 1)4 inches. 

34 E to N is the same width as 50 to G, and )/. inch. 

35 Draw a line from G to N and from 

36 49 to G for width of Back over breast-line. 

37 49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 

38 Blade fullness is % inch over the rounding. 

39 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

40 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V 

in normal attitude will meet line A-V (13). 

41 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (18). 

42 Z is 1)4 inches from line K. 



Diagram 28 

43 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

44 V to point 1 is J^ inch less than S to X. 

45 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

46 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding I/2 in. over Z. 

47 B to 2 is >1 breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3)^ inches. 

48 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 
blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

49 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

50 4 to 5 is )/2 waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

51 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 
2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front 
center of the waist, and to check the blade 
measure. 

52 5 to 8 is 2)4 inches (8 to 6, 1)4 dress) ; 9 to 10 is 1/6 
breast. 

53 G to 22 is 1)4 inches, or 1)4 inches in all sizes to 
allow for blade fullness and Ys inch for every inch 
the waist is smaller than the breast. 

54 Square up, and down to 23 ; 23 is ^ inch below the 
fashion waist; or sweep from the Back by Y. 

55 Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16. 

56 Shape side body, reducing )4 inch near Y, ^ inch at 
breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. 

57 V to 18 is 1/12 breast plus )4 inch, square forward 
from 18 by K. 

58 18 to 19 is )4 breast. 

59 Draw lin.e from 19 to I and 6 through 24. 

60 V to 21 is 1)4 inches; draw line to end of Roll. 

61 Rounding )^ inch over the breast. 

62 Square from 19 to 20 — 1)4 inches or more. 

63 20 to 26 is 2)^ inches ; I to J is 2)4 inches. 

64 Draw line from 13 to 10. 

65 10 to 24 is 2)4 inches. 

66 24 to 35 is 1)4 inches; 35 to 25 is the same. 

67 Square across from the break line to 19, the amount 
of the opening 1)4 inches. 

68 Draw a straight line to junction of break and front 
line; connect 19 and 20. 

69 The opening is cut in the break line and on the 19 
line — ending off from the straight line. 

70 Skirt — Square both ways from 23. 

71 23 to 12 is 1/3 breast, and )4 inch. 

72 12 to 11 is 1)4 inches; 11 to 27 is ^,4 inch. 

73 Draw a line from 23 through 1 1 and 14. 

74 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 

75 23 to bottom is )4 inch more than D to E. 

76 Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. 

77 Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. 

78 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. 

79 Draw line 14 to 7 ; shape bottom ; lower 1 inch at 17. 

81 Take out a fish )^ inch, 1/6 up from 15. 

82 Go out )4 from D and line parallel to 50-E. 

83 Reduce )^ inch at B from A to C. 

84 24 to 36 is % the width from 24 to 23 and 1 inch. 

85 14 to 33 equal 24 to 36 and 1 inch. 

86 Shape front run of skirt. 



COATS 




COATS 



§2 




COATS 



Full Dress 

Diagram 29 



Breast 


36 


inches. 


Waist 


32 


inches. 


Hip or seat 


i7 


inches. 


Strap 


12 


inches 


Over shouldei 


17 


inches 



5. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 

Inside sleeve 17>'4 inches. Blade (with 1J4 inches for 

seams added) 12>4 inches. 

Depth of scye 9 inches. 

Natural waist I6y{\ inches. 

Fashion waist 18^ inches. 

Full length 39 inches. 

Height 5 feet 6 inches. 

Form and Attitude, normal. .Sizes, 33 to 42 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A or 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rd.s" and 3>^ inches (9j^). 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and 3>^ inches. 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one-fourth height, and ^4 '"ch for length. 

7 A to D is the fashion waist ; one-fourth height and 

V/, inches (18>^). 

8 D to 50 is \y^ inches, line from A through 50 to E. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

10 F is half between A and B, for front shoulder height. 

1 1 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

12 B to H is half the full breast measure. 

13 H to I is 234 inches, center of Breast. 

14 B to K is blade (with 1J4 inches for seams (_\2yz). 

15 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

16 L is half way between B and K. 

17 L to M is 154 inches — width of Back. 

18 Square up to O, and down to P. 

19 P is J^ inch from line O-M. Square down to 13. 

20 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on •'12ths/' and 

21 Q to R is l><^ inches. Square up to S, Yt, inch. 

22 K to T is 13/^ inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

23 Square up from U to V — locating the shoulder point. 

24 V is located on lines from U and A. 

25 Draw lines from S to U, F to V and A to K. 

26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

27 Rise at X 3^ inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

28 X is 34 inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

29 Y is Yi inch from the O-M Line. 

30 Draw guide line from X to Y. 

31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and Yi inch 

(9>4) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 

32 The Y2 inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

33 C to G is 1/16 breast and 1^4 inches. 

34 E to N is the same width as 50 to G, and Y^ '"ch. 

35 Draw a line from G to N and from. 

36 49 to G for width of Back over breast line. 

37 49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 

38 Blade fullness is Yt, inch over the rounding. 

39 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

40 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V 

in normal attitude will meet line A-V (13). 



41 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to \V and 

K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (18). 

42 Z is \y^ inches from line K. 

43 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

44 V to point 1 is ^ inch less than S to X. 

45 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

46 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding j/1 in. over Z. 

47 B to 2 is 34 breast on "halves"; 2 to K is iYi inches. 

48 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

49 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

50 4 to 5 is 3/2 waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

51 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front 
center of waist, and to check the blade measure.. 

52 5 to 8 is 234 inches (8 to 6, \Y% dress) ; 9 to 10 is 

1/6 breast. 

53 G to 22 is IYa inches, or 1^4 inches in all sizes to 

allow for blade fullness and Y& '"ch for every 
inch the waist is smaller than the breast. 

54 Square up and down to 23 ; 23 is ^ inch below the 

fashion waist; or sweep from the Back by Y. 

55 Measure waist net G to C, P to 22 and 8 to 16. 

56 Shape side body reducing % inch near Y, J^ inch at 

breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 2Z to 13. 

57 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

58 18 to 19 is Y^ breast; draw line from 19 to I. 

59 Add a Y inch rounding over the breast. 

60 Draw a line from 13 to 10—10 to 24 is 2^4 inches. 

61 Shape gorge and front through 6 — 24 to 35. 

62 24 to 35 is \Y inches; the opening ^ inch. 

63 Rever — 19 to 20 is 2 inches; draw a straight line. 

64 Parallel with the front ; get length to 34. 

65 34 to 25 is 1^ inches. 

66 Draw a line from K through 20 to 26. 

67 20 to 26 is 2i4 inches ; I to J is 2^4 inches. 

68 Shape lapel through 26 — J to 25. 

69 Skirt — square both ways from 23. 

70 23 to 12 is 1/3 breast, and ^4 incli. 

71 12 to 11 is 1 J/ inches; 11 to 27 is .>4 inch. 

72 Draw a line from 23 through 11 and 14. 
72) 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 

74 22) to bottom is Y\ '"^h more than D to E. 

75 Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. 

76 Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. 

77 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. 

78 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1 inch at 17. 

80 Take out a fish Yi i"ch, 1/6 up from 15. 

81 Go out Y^ fi'o"! ^ ^""^ ''"^ parallel to 50-E. 

82 Reduce Y& '"ch a' ^ ^'^o'" ^ ^° ^■ 

83 24 to 36 is Ya the width from 24 to 23 and 1 inch. 

84 14 to 2)2> equal 24 to 36 and 1 inch. 

85 Shape front run of skirt. 



10 



COATS 



§2 



Full Dress Stout 



6. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Inside sleeve 18>V4 inches. Blade (vk^ith lj4 inches for 



Diagram 30 

48 Thi 



seams added) 14 inches. 
Depth of scye 9^4 inches. 
Natural waist IZj--^ inches 
Fashion waist 19 inches. 
Full length 42 inches. 
Height 5 feet 10 inches 



Breast 42 inches. 

Waist 40>^ inches. 

Hip or seat 43 inches 
Strap 13>4 inches. 

Over shoulder 19 inches. 
Stout 1 degree. 

Form and Attitude, normal. Sizes, 40 to 48 breasts. 
To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/ breast on "3rds" and 3>2 inches (10^). 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and 3^ inches (10>^). 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one- fourth height, and % inch for length. 

7 A to D is the fashion waist ; one fourth height and 

lyi inches (19). 

8 D to 50 is 1^ inches, line from A through 50 to E. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

10 F is half between 4 and B, for front shoulder height. 

1 1 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

12 B to H is half the full breast measure. 

13 H to I is 254 inches, center of Breast. 

14 B to K is blade (with l}i inches for seams) (14). 

15 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

16 L is half way between B and K. 

17 L to M is lj4 inches — width of Back. 

18 Square up to O and down to P. 

19 P is ^ inch from Line O-M. Square down to 13. 

20 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths," and 

21 Q to R is 1^ inches. Square up to S, ^ inch. 

22 K to T is lyi inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

23 Square up from U to V — locating the shoulder point. 

24 V is located on lines from U and 4. 

25 Draw lines from S to U, F to V and A to K. 

26 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

27 Rise at X J4 inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

28 X is 3^2 inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

29 Y is ^ inch from the O-M Line. 

30 Draw guide line from X to Y. 

31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and J.> inch 

to A, in normal attitude will meet line A (10J4)- 

32 The yi inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

33 C to G is 1/16 breast and 1% inches. 

34 E to N is the same width as 50 to G, and 1 inch. 

35 Draw a line from G to N and from 

36 49 to G for width of Back over breast-line. 

37 49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 

38 Blade fullness is ^ inch over rounding. 

39 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

40 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V. 

in normal attitude will meet line 4-V (14)^). 

41 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

K to Z; when normal meet line F-V (20). 

42 Z is 1% inches from line K. 

43 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

44 V to point 1 is ^ inch less than S to X. 

45 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

46 Shape arni-scye and shoulder rounding yi in. over Z. 

47 B to 2 is J^ breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3^ inches. 



is normal blade and independent of the actual 
blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

49 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

50 4 to 5 is ^ waist — on "halves"- — center of waist. 

51 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center 
of the waist, and to check the blade measure. 

52 5 to 8 is 2}i inches (8 to 6, 1>^ dress) ; 9 to 10 is 

1/6 breast. 

53 G to 22 is IJ/2 inches, or 1^4 inches in all sizes to 

allow for blade fullness and yi inch for every inch 
the waist is smaller than the breast. 

54 Square up, and down to 23 ; 23 is ^ inch below the 

fashion waist; or sweep from the Back by Y. 

55 Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16. 

56 Shape side body reducing ^ inch near Y, }i inch at 

breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. 

57 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

58 18 to 19 is }i breast. 

59 Draw a line from 13 to 10. 

60 10 to 24 is 214 inches. 

61 Draw line from 19 through 1-6 to 35; -^4 beyond 24. 

62 V to 21 is 1^ inches; draw line to end of Roll. 

63 Rounding a yi inch over the breast. 

64 Square from 19 to 20, lyi inches or more. 

65 Draw straight line with the forepart. 

66 Square across from the break-line to 19, tlie amount 

of the opening (lyi). 

67 Draw a straight line to junction of break-line. 

68 Connect 19 and 20. 

69 The opening is cut in the break-line and on the 19 line, 

ending off from the straight line. 

70 24 to 35 is 13-4 inches; 35 to 25 is the same. 

71 Shape the gorge and front through 6-24 to 35. 

72 Draw a line from K through 20 to 26. 

73 20 to 26 is 2}4 inches ; I to J is 2y^ inches. 

74 Shape lapel through 26 — J to 25. 

75 Lay square on 13-36-H and take out a V at 36. 

76 Advance 23 the amount of V and seams. 

77 Skirt — Square both ways from 23. 

78 23 to 12 is 1/3 breast, and 3^ inch. 

79 12 to 11 is 13^ inches; 11 to 27 is ;^4 inch. 

80 Draw a line from 23 through 11 and 14. 

81 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 

82 23 to bottom is 34 inch more than D to E. 

83 Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. 

84 Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. 

85 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. 

86 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1 inch at 17. 

89 Go out yi from D and line parallel to 50-E. 

90 Reduce yi inch at B from A to C. 

91 24 to 36 is 34 the width from 24 to 23 and 1 inch. 

92 14 to 33 equal 24 to 36 and 1 inch. 

93 Shape front run of skirt. 



Full Dress Corpulent 

The corpulent dress coat is cut the same as the stout ; 
only it is advisable to cut the skirt with a strap below 
line 10-13 and also a loose rever, so assist in working the 
fullness over the corpulency. 



COATS 



11 



21A-^y 




DIAGRAM 30 - FULL DRESS STOUT 



12 



COATS 



§2 




DIAGRAM 31 -DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK 



§2 



COATS 



13 



Double-Breasted Frock 



Diagram 31 



7. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Inside sleeve 17^ inches Blade (with 1^ inches for 
Breast 36 inches seams added) 12j!X inches 

Waist 32 inches Depth of scye 9 inches 

Hip or seat Z7 inches Natural waist 16-)<4 inches 

Strap 12 inches Fashion waist 18^ inches 

Over shoulder 17 inches Full length 38 inches 

Height 5 feet 6 inches 

Form and Attitude, normal. Sizes, 33 to 42 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A. 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast on "3rus" and 3^ inches (93/2). 

3 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

4 A to C is one-fourth height, and ^ inch for length. 

5 A to D is the fashion waist; one-fourth height and 

ly. inches (18>4). 

6 D to 50 is \y^ inches, line from A through 50 to E. 

7 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

8 F is half between A and B, for front shoulder height. 

9 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 

10 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

11 H to I is 254 inches, center of Breast. 

12 B to K is blade (with 1^ inches for seams) (12j.4). 

13 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

14 L is half way between B and K. 

15 L to M is 1>4 inches — width of Back. 

16 Square up to O, and down to P. 

17 P is J^ inch from line 0-M. Square down to 13. 

18 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on 'T2tiis," and 

19 Q to R is IJ^ inches. Square up to S, Y^ inch. 

20 K to T is ly. inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

21 Square up from U to V — locating the shoulder point. 

22 \' is located on lines from U and A. 

23 Draw lines from S to U, F to V, and A to K. 

24 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

25 Rise at X J/2 inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

26 X is >^ inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

27 Y is >4 inch from the O-M line. 

28 Draw guide line from X to Y. 

29 From B up apply depth of scye measure and >4 inch 

(9>4) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 

30 The yz inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

31 C to G is 1/16 breast and 1J4 inches. 

32 E to N is the same width as 50 to G, and y> inch. 

33 Draw a line from G to N, and from 

34 49 to G for width of Back over breast-line. 

35 49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 

36 Blade fidlness is Y% inch over the rounding. 

37 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

38 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V 

in normal attitude will meet A-V (13). 



53 



54 



Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to VV and 
K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (18). 

Z is 134 inches from line K. 

Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

V to point 1 is % inch less than S to X. 

Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding >^ in. over Z. 

B to 2 is >^ breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3>^ inches. 

This is normal blade and independent of the actual 
blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

4 to 5 is 1/2 waist — on "halves" — center waist. 
Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front 
center of the waist, and to check the blade measure. 

5 to 8 is ly^ inches ; 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. 
These 2^4 inches are for seams and make-up. 

G to 22 is 1^ inches, or I34 inches in all sizes to 

allow for blade fullness and y^ inch for each inch 

tlic waist is smaller than the breast. 
Square up, and down to 21; 23 is Y^ inch below the 

fashion waist ; or sweep from the Back by Y. 
Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 1(5. 
Shape side body reducing ^4 inch near Y, % inch at 

breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. 
X to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 
18 to 19 is 34 breast; draw hne from 19 to I and 5. 
Add 34 inch rounding over the breast. 
Rever — 19 to 20 is l3-'2 inches, or draw a straight line 

through 5-9; straighten 34 inch at 20. 
10 to 24 is 234 inches ; 10 to 25 the same ; sweep by 20. 
Draw a line from 13 to 24 — Shape from 13 to 25. 
Draw a line from K through 20 to 26. 
20 to 26 is 234 inches ; I to J is 334 inches. 
Shape lapel through 26 — J to 25. 
Square both ways from 23 for a close skirt. 
Draw a line from 23 to 24 ; square down to 12. 
Flare — At 23 go up 5^ inch and square down by 32. 
2}) to 12 is 1/3 breast, and 34 inch. 
12 to 11 is 134 inches; 11 to 27 is ;^4 inch. 
Draw a line from 23 through 11 and 14. 
14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 
23 to bottom is 34 'nch more than D to E. 
Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. 
Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. 
Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. 
Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1 inch at 17. 
Square down the front edge to 7, by the waist Hne. 
Take out a fish y^ inch, 1/6 up from 15. 
Go out 34 from D and line parallel to 50-E. 
Reduce 3^ inch at B from A to C. 



14 



COATS 



§2 



Single-Breasted Frock 



Diagram 32 



8. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Inside sleeve 17;^ inches Blade (.w'tli 1>4 inches for 
Breast 36 inches seams added) 12>^ inches 

Waist 32 inches Depth of scye 9 inches 

Hip or seat Z7 inches Malural waist 16% inches 

Strap 12 inches Fashion waist 18>^ inches 

Over shoulder 17 inches Fulllength 38 inches 

Height 5 feet 6 inches 

Form and Attitude, normal. Sizes, iZ to 42 breasts. 

To Drai't. 

1 Square both ways from A. 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast on "3kds" and 3>2 inches (9>4). 

3 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

4 A to C is one-fourth height, and 34 i"ch for length. 

5 A to D is the fashion waist; one- fourth height and 

V/z inches (18M)- 

6 D to 50 is 134 inches, line from A through 50 to E. 

7 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

8 F" is half between A and B, for front shoulder height. 

9 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 

10 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

11 H to I is 234 inches, center of Breast. 

12 B to K is blade (with 1^4 inches for seams) (12^4). 

13 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

14 L is half way between B and K. 

15 L to M is 1% inches — width of Back. 

16 Square up to O, and down to P. 

17 P is ^ inch from line O-M. Square down to 13. 

18 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12tus," and 

19 Q to R is 1 34 inches. Square up to S, ^ inch. 

20 K to T is 1J4 inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

21 Square up from U to V — locating the shoulder point. 

22 V is located on lines from U and .\. 

2i Draw lines from S to U, F to V, and A to K. 

24 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

25 Rise at X /S inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

26 X \s Yi inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

27 Y is 34 inch from the O-M line. 

28 Draw guide line from X to Y. 

29 From B up apply depth of scye measure and 3^ inch 

(934) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 

30 The Yi inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

31 C to G is 1/16 breast and I34 inches. 

2)2 E to N is the same width as 50 to G, and 34 inch. 

33 Draw a line from G to N and from 

34 49 to G for width of Back over breast-line. 

35 49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 

36 Blade fullness is ^ inch over the rounding. 

37 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 



38 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V 

in normal attitude will meet line A-V (13). 

39 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (18). 

40 Z is 134 inches from line K. 

41 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

42 V to point 1 is ^ inch less than S to X. 

43 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

44 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding 34 inch over Z. 

45 B to 2 is 34 breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 334 inches. 

46 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

47 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

48 4 to 5 is 34 waist — on "halves"- — center of waist. 

49 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front 
center of the waist, and to check the blade measure. 

50 5 to 8 is 234 inches; 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. 

51 These 234 inches are for seams and make-up. 

52 G to 22 is 1^4 inches, or 134 inches in all sizes to 

allow for blade fullness and Y& '"ch for every inch 
the waist is smaller than the breast. 

53 Square up, and down to 23 ; 23 is ^ inch below the 

fashion waist ; or sweep from the Back by Y. 

54 Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16. 

55 Shape side body reducing 34 inch near Y, ^ inch at 

breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. 

56 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

57 18 to 19 is 34 breast ; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

58 10 to 24 is 234 inches. 

59 Draw a line from 13 to 24. Shape from 13 to 25. 

60 Draw a line from K through 20 to 26. 

61 20 to 26 is 234 inches; I to J is IJ^, 5 to 6 I34 inches. 

62 Shape lapel through 26 — J to 25. 

63 Square both ways from 23 for close Skirt. Go up 

from 32 a 34 inch for medium Skirt. 

64 Draw a line from 23 to 24; square down to 12. 

65 Flare — .\t 23 go up ^ inch and square down by 32. 

66 23 to 12 is 1/3 breast, and 34 inch. 

67 12 to 11 is 13^ inches; 11 to 27 is J4 inch. 

68 Draw a line from 23 through 11 and 14. 

69 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 

70 23 to bottom is 34 inch more than D to E. 

71 Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. 

72 Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. 

73 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. 

74 Draw line 14 to 7 ; shape bottom ; lower 1 inch at 17. 

75 Square down the front edge to 7, by the waist line. 

76 Take out a fish Y& inch, 1/6 up from 15. 

77 Go out 34 from D and line parallel to 50-E. 

78 Reduce Y& inch at B from A to C. 



§2 



COATS 



15 




'':>^l M 




\\\ 




DIAGRAM 32 - SINGLE-BREASTED FROCK 



16 



COATS 



§ 2 




DIAGRAM 33 DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK, STOUT 



§ 2 



COATS 



17 



Double-Breasted Frock Stout 



Diagram 33 



9. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Inside sleeve 18% inches. Blade (with l^^ inches for 
Breast 42 inches. seams added) 14 inches. 

Waist AOyi inches. Depth of scye 9-yi inches. 

Hip or seat 43 inches. Natural Waist 17j/ inches. 

Strap 13>4 inches. Fashion waist 19 inches. 

Over shoulder 19 inches. Full length 41 inches. 

Corpulent 1 degree. Height 5 ft. 10 inches. 

Form and Attitude, normal. Sizes, 40 to 48 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3^j inches (10^). 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and 3J-^ inches (lO^^). 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one-fourth height, and ^ inch for length. 

7 A to D is the fashion waist ; one-fourth height and 

iy2 inches (19). 

8 D to 50 is 154 inches, line from A through 50 to E. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

10 F is half between 4 and B, for fronf shoulder height. 

11 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

12 B to H is half the full breast measure. 

13 H to I is 2}i inches, center of Breast. 

14 B to K is blade (with 1% inches for seams) (14). 

15 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

16 L is half way between B and K. 

17 L to M is V/i inches — width of Back. 

18 Square up to O, and down to P. 

19 P is 5^ inch from line O-M. Square down to 13. 

20 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths," and 

21 Q to R is 1^ inches. Square up to S, ^ inch. 

22 (Corp.) — Advance from K, 1/16 inch each size above 

4 inches less than breast; to straighten the front 
run, take is out in the underarm cut as shown by 
shaded part. 

23 K to T is 1^ inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

24 Square up from U to V — locating the shoulder point. 

25 V is located on lines from K and 4 through line U. 

26 Draw lines from S to U, F to V and A to K. 

27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

28 Rise at X y> inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

29 X is 1/^ inch on the S-U line — or style. 

30 Y is >4 inch from the O-M line. 

31 Draw guide line from X to Y. 

32 From B up apply depth of scye measure and yi inch 

to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 

33 The yi inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

34 C to G is 1/16 breast and 1J4 inches. 

35 E to N is the same width as 50 to G, and '/< inch. 

36 Draw a line from G to N and from 

37 49 to G for width of Back over breast line. 

38 49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 

39 Blade fullness is % inch over the rounding. 

40 Shape the Back as shown; draw line from B to W. 

41 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V 

in normal attitude will meet line 4-V (14>4). 



42 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (20). 

43 Z is 154 inches from line K. 

44 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

45 V to point 1 is % inch less than S to X. 

46 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

47 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding >i in. over Z. 

48 B to 2 is >S breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3>4 inches. 

49 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

50 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

51 4 to 5 is i/^ waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

52 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front 
center of the waist, and to check the blade measure. 

53 5 to 8 is 214 inches; 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. 

54 These 2% inches are for seams and makeup. 

55 G to 22 is lyi inches, or 1J4 inches in all sizes to 

allow for blade fullness and ]/» inch for every inch 
the waist is smaller than the breast. 

56 Square up, and down to 23 ; 23 is 5^ inch below the 

fashion waist; or sweep from the Back by Y. 

57 Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16. 

58 Shape side body reducing % inch near Y, }i inch at 

breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. 

59 V to 18 is 1/12 breast and ^{> inch ; square forward. 

60 18 to 19 is y breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

61 (Corp.) — Advance at I the amount from K to 3. 

62 Add J4 inch rounding over the breast. 

63 Rever — 19 to 20 is 2 inches, or draw a straight line 

through 5-9; straighten >4 inch at 20. 

64 10 to 24 is 2J4 in. ; 10 to 25 the same ; sweep by 20. 

65 Draw a line from 13 to 24 — Shape from 13 to 25. 

66 Draw a line from K through 20 to 26. 

67 20 to 26 is 2y, inches ; I to J is 3>4 inches. 

68 Shape lapel through 26— J to 25. 

69 (Corp.) — 10 to 35 is J4 in. ; draw line from 13 to 25. 

70 Lay square on 13-36-H and take out a F at 36. 

71 Advance 23 the amount of V and seams. 

72 Skirt— Square both ways from 23 for a close skirt, or 

go up from 32 a J/> inch for medium skirt. 

73 Draw a line from 23 to 24; square down to 12. 

74 Flare— At 23 go up ^s inch and square down by 32. 

75 23 to 12 is 1/3 breast, and '-4 inch. 

76 12 to 11 is 1>^ inches; 11 to 27 is J4 inch. 

77 Draw a line from 23 through 11 and 14. 

78 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 

79 23 to bottom is J4 inch more than D to E. 

80 Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. 

81 Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. 

82 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. 

83 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1 inch at 17. 

84 Square down the front edge to 7, by the waist line. 

85 Go out ^ from D and line parallel to 50-E. 

86 Reduce % inch at B from A to C. 

87 The opening at 25 is equal to the opening at 10. 

88 Take out J4 inch in the V at 36. 



18 



COATS 



§2 



Corpulent Frock 



Diagram 34 



10. Tlie measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Inside sleeve 19% inches Blade (with lj4 inches for 



Breast 
Waist 
Hip or seat 
Strap 

Over shoulder 
Corpulent 
Form aiK 



48 inches seams added) 15^ inches 
SOyi inches Depth of scye 10>4 inches 

49 inches Natural waist 18 inches 
14.1.4 inches Fashion waist 19^ inches 
20;'<4 inches Full length 41 inches 

3 degrees Height 6 feet 



\ttitu(le, normal. Sizes. 44 to 52 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3j^ inches (11). 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and Syi inches. 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one-fourth height, and ^4 inch for length. 

7 A to D is the fashion waist; one- fourth height and 

iy2 inches (19^)- 

8 D to 50 is 1^ inches, line from A through 50 to E. 

9 A to E is the Full length of Back (41). 

10 F is half between 4 and II, for front shoulder height. 

1 1 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

12 B to H is half the full breast measure (24). 

13 H to I is 2^4 inches, center of Breast. 

14 B to K is blade (with lj4 inches for seams) (15J/2). 

15 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

16 L is half way between B and K. 

17 L to M is 114 inches— width of Back. 

18 Square up to O, and down to P. 

19 P is "4 inch from Line O-M. Square down to 13. 

20 A to Q is 1/12 breast— on "12Tiis," and 

21 Q to R is 1>4 inches. Square up to S, ^ inch. 

22 Advance from K, 1/16 inch each size above 4 inches 

less than breast; to straighten the front run, take 
it out in the underarm cut as shown by shaded 
part. 

23 K to T is 1>^ inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

24 Square up from U to V — locating the shoulder point. 

25 \' is located on lines from U and 4. 

26 Draw lines from S to U, F to V, and A to K. 

27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

28 Rise at X j4 inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

29 X is y> inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

30 Y is J4 inch from the O-M line. 

31 Draw guide line from X to Y. 

32 From B up apply depth of scye measure and ^ inch 

(11) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 

33 The 1/2 inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

34 C to G is 1/16 breast and \% inches. 

35 E to N is the same width as 50 to G. and J/2 inch. 

36 Draw a line from G to N and from 

37 49 to G for width of Back over breast-line. 

38 49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 

39 Blade fullness is ^ inch over the rounding. 

•11 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 



41 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V 

(15^4) ' nnormal attitude will meet line 4-V. 

42 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (21^54). 

43 Z is 1^ inches from line K. 

44 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

45 V to point 1 is ^ inch less than S to X. 

46 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

47 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding yi inch over Z. 

48 B to 2 is >2 breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3^ inches. 

49 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 
.50 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

51 4 to 5 is >4 waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

52 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center 
of the waist, and to check the blade measure. 

53 5 to 8 is 2 inches ; 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. 

54 These 2 inches are for seams and make-up. 

55 G to 22 is 1% inches, or 1J4 inches in all sizes to 

allow for blade fullness and ys inch for every inch 
the waist is smaller than the breast. 
55 Square up, and down to 23 ; 23 is ^ inch below the 
fashion waist ; or sweep from the Back by Y. 

57 Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16. 

58 Shape side body reducing J4 inch near Y, ^ inch at 

breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. 

59 V to 18 is 1/12 breast ; square forward from 18 by K. 

60 18 to 19 is 14 breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

61 Advance at I the amount from K to 3. 

62 Add 54 inch rounding over the breast. 

63 Take out the shaded part under the arm. 

64 Rever— 19 to 20 is 3^ inches, or draw a straight line 

through 5-9; straighten yi inch at 20. 

65 10 to 24 is 2^ inches ; 10 to 25 the same ; sweep by 20. 

66 Draw a line from 13 to 24. Shape from 13 to 25. 

67 Draw a line from K through 20 to 26. 

68 20 to 26 is 2% inches ; I to J is 3>^ inches. 

69 Shape lapel through 26 — J to 25. 

70 10 to 35 is 3/2 inch; draw line from 13 to 35. 

71 Lay square on 13-36-H and take out a V at 36. 

72 Advance 23 the amount of V and seams at 36. 

73 For a close skirt rise at 32 a Yz inch. 

74 Draw a line from 23 to 24; square down to 12. 

75 Flare — At 23 go up ^ inch and square down by 32. 

76 23 to 12 is 1/3 breast, and yi inch. 

77 12 to 11 is lyi inches; 11 to 27 is ^4 inch. 

78 Draw a line from 23 through 11 and 14. 

79 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 

80 23 to bottom is % inch more than D to E. 

81 Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. 

82 Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. 

83 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. 

84 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1 inch at 17. 

85 Square down the front edge to 7, by the waist line. 

87 Go out J/ from D and line parallel to 50-E. 

88 Reduce % inch at B from A to C. 



COATS 



19 




DIAGRAM 34 - DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK, CORPULENT 



20 



COATS 



§2 




DIAGRAM 35 — MILITARY FROCK 



COATS 



21 



Military Frock 

Diagram 35 



11. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Inside sleeve 17% inchee. Blade (with 1^ inches for 
Breast 36 inches. seams added) 12>^ in. 

Waist 31 inches. Depth of scye 8% inches. 

Hip or seat il inches. Natural waist XbYz inches 

Strap \2Y2 inches. Fashion waist 17^ inches. 

Over shoulder 17 inches. Full length 34 inches. 

Normal erect 1 degree. Height 5 ft. 6 inches. 

Form and Attitude, erect. Sizes, ZZ to 42 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways A or 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3ia)s" and Zyi inches (9^). 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and 3^ inches. 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one-fourth height, and ^4 inch of curve of 

Back (16^4). 

7 A to D is the fashion waist; one-fourth height and 

1 inch (17K0- 

8 D to 50 is 1;>^ inches, line from A through 50 to E. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back (34). 

10 F is half between 4 and B, for front shoulder height. 

11 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

12 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

13 H to I is 2y-2 inches, center of Breast. 

14 B to K is blade (with I14 inches for seams) iliy^). 

15 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

16 L is half way between B and K. 

17 L to M is V/a, inches— width of Back. 

18 Square up to O, and down to P. 

19 P is J^ inch from Line O-M. Square down to 13. 

20 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on 'T2ths," and 

21 Q to R is Xy^ inches. Square up to S, ^ inch. 

23 K to T is 1>^ inches ; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

24 Square up from U to V — locating the shoulder point. 

25 \' is located on lines from U and 4. 

26 Draw lines from S to U, F to V, and A to K. 

27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

28 Rise at X v^ inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

29 X is % inch on the S-U Line— or Style. 

30 Y is 54 inch from the O-M Line. 

31 Draw guide line from X to Y. 

32 From B up apply depth of scye measure and J^ inch 

(9>4) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 

33 The Yi inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

34 C to G is 1/16 breast and 1J4 inches. 

35 E to N is the same width as 50 to G, and Yz inch. 

36 Draw a line from G to N and from 

37 49 to G for width of Back over breast-line. 

38 49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 

39 Blade fullness is Yi inch over the rounding. 

40 Obtain point S from A and shape A, S to X. 

41 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

42 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V 

(13^^) in normal attitude will meet line 4-V. 

43 Go back from K-V line as much as above line V-4, 

or Vz as much from line U. 



44 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (18). 

45 Z is lj4 inches from line K. 

46 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

47 V to point 1 is ^ inch less than S to X. 

48 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

49 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding ^ in. over Z. 

50 B to 2 is 3^ breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3>^ inches. 

51 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

52 .Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

53 4 to 5 is 3^ waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

54 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front 
center of the waist, and to check the blade measure. 

55 5 to 8 is 2 inches; 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. 

56 These 2 inches are for seams and make-up. 

57 G to 22 is 1% inches, or 1J4 inches in all sizes to 

allow for blade fullness and y^ inch for every inch 
the waist is smaller than the breast. 

58 S(iuare up, and down to 23 ; 23 is 5^ inch below the 

fashion waist ; or sweep from the Back by Y. 

59 Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16. 

60 Shape side body reducing ^4 i"ch near Y, ^ inch at 

breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. 

61 V to 18 is 1/12 breast ; square forward from 18 by K. 

62 18 to 19 is 34 breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

63 Add 34 inch rounding over the breast. 

64 Rever— 19 to 20 is 2 inches, draw a straight line 

through 5 ; straighten Yz inch at 20. 

65 10 to 24 is 2; 1 inches; 10 to 25 the same and 1 inch. 

66 Draw a line from 13 to 10. Shape from 13. 

67 Draw a line from 19 through 20 to 26. 

68 20 to 26 is 5 inches ; rise at 26 a 34 inch. 

69 Shape Lapel through 26— J to 25. 

70 Draw a line from center of breast through 6. 

71 Take out a 34 inch on each side; square down. 

72 The V extends up half way between breast and waist 

line. • 
77> Square forward by line 6 through 24 to 25. 

74 Take ofif ^ inch of Lapel and y% inch of forepart 

for opening above point 10. 

75 The inside line of Lapel should be rounded 34 inch 

less than the forepart rounding. 

76 In shaping the gorge for erect, the curve must come 

out to the original or normal curve, which is 
% inch from the junction of lines U and 18. 
17 The suppression at 16— P is % inch with springs 
added to forepart to produce hip fullness. 

78 Advance 23 the amount of V and seams (1 in.). 

79 The opening of skirt below 13 is 1 inch ; square down 

by 23. 

80 23 to 12 is 1/3 breast, and 34 inch. 

81 12 to 11 is 2 inches; 11 to 27 is % inch. 

82 Draw a line from 23 through 11 and 14. 

83 14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 

84 23 to bottom is 34 inch more than D to E. 



22 



COATS 



§2 



85 Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. 

86 Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. 

87 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. 

88 Draw line 14 to 7 ; shape bottom ; lower 1 inch at 17. 

89 Square down the front edge to 7, by the waist line. 

91 Go out Yz from D and line parallel to 50-E. 

92 Reduce J4 inch at B from A to C. 



93 The bars for the shoulder epaulette 'are placed even 

with a line drawn from point V to the back notch, 
and is 1 inch from edge of gorge and armhole. 

94 The buttons are placed 1 inch from edge of Lapel. 

95 Full information regarding other details is furnished 

by the government upon request. 

96 Hooks to hold the belt are inserted in the waist 

seam and one in front seam. 



Cassock 

Diagram 36 



12. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Inside sleeve 17^ inches Blade (with 1^ inches for 
Breast 36 inches seams added) 12^/2 inches 

Waist 32 inches Depth of scye 9 inches 

Hip or seat 37 inches Natural waist I6J/2 inches 

Strap 12 inches Fashion waist 18j4 inches 

Over shoulder 17 inches I'^ull length 58 inches 

Height 5 feet 6 inches 

Form and Attitude, normal. Sizes, 33 to 42 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A. 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 31/2 inches (9>4). 

3 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

4 A to C is one-fourth height, and ^ inch for length. 

5 A to D is the fashion waist; one-fourth height and 

V/z inches (IS-^). 

6 D to SO is 3 inches for box pleat. 

7 A to E is the Full Length of Back, 58 inches. 

8 F is half between A and B, for front shoulder height. 

9 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 

10 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

11 H to I is 2]/4 inches, center of breast. 

12 B to K is blade (with ly^ inches for seams) (12j/i). 

13 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

14 L is half way between B and K. 

15 L to M is 1J4 inches — width of Back. 

16 Square up to O, and down to P. 

17 P is J^ inch from Line O-M. Square down to 13. 

18 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12tiis," and 

19 Q to R is 1J4 inches. Square up to S, 5^ inch. 

20 K to T is V/. inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

21 Square up from U to V — locating the shoulder point. 

22 V is located on lines from L' and A. 
22) Draw lines from S to U and F to V. 

24 This gives the proportional Jieight of shoulders. 

25 Rise at X J^ inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

26 X is Yi inch on the S-U Line — or Style. 

27 Y is J/2 inch from the O-M Line, and 1/6 up from M. 

28 Draw guide line from X to Y. 

29 From B up apply depth of scye measure and Y2 inch 

(9'/j) to A in normal attitude will meet line A. 

30 The Y' '"ch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

31 C to G is 1/16 breast and 2 inches. 

32 E to N is K' breast, or 1/6 lengtli of 58. 

33 E to 45 is the same. Draw lines. 

34 Add 3 inches for box pleat to D-45. 

35 Draw line from 46 to N, add 2 inches for pleat. 



36 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 
2)7 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V 
(13) in normal attitude will meet line A-V. 

38 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (18). 

39 Z is 1^ inches from line K. 

40 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

41 V to point 1 is ^ inch less than S to X. 

42 Draw a gfuide line from point 1 to T. 

43 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding Y^ mz\\ over Z. 

44 B to 2 is J/2 breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3^ inches. 

45 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 

46 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

47 4 to 5 is ^ waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

48 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of waist, and to check the blade measure. 

49 5 to 8 is 2J4 inches, 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. 

50 These 2Ya inches are for seams and make-up. 

51 G to 22 is 1% inches. 

52 Square up, and down to 23 ; 23 is 5^ inch below the 

fashion waist ; or sweep from the Back by Y. 

53 Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16. 

54 .Shape side body reducing Y inch near Y, ^ inch at 

breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. 

55 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

56 18 to 19 is Y breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

57 Draw a line from 10 through 13 to 47. 

58 Square down from 47 to 12; 12 to 11 is lJ/$ inches. 

59 11 to 27 is Y inch. 

60 Draw line from 47 through 27 to 48. 

61 47 to 48 is a 3/^ inch more than 46 to N. 

62 This is provided no height measure is at hand. 

63 Z to 7 equal Z to E on line K and 1 inch. 

64 Measure width of Bottom from N to 45 and 

65 from 7 to 48, total 58 inches, or % of height. 

66 19 to 20 is 1 inch, I to J is 1^4 inches. 

67 5 to 6 is 1 inch; finish front. 

68 A standing collar, cut as military, reaching to within 

a K' inch of 19. 

69 Pleat pockets are inserted, 10 inches down to the X. 

70 The skirt is slightly curved at 32 in order to distribute 

the hip fullness more on the side. 

71 If no seam is cut across, trace the sidebody. 

72 Buttons 1^ inches apart, 33 in number. 
72) One for every year of the Lord. 



COATS 



23 



V*-^,— P -S'^t-^*^ 


„ -''vfc'^^ InIV^RQ^ 


A 


22i:i^^ ,^1^ y^ 




f*^ \f ^< 




r / ^ 1 


F 


/♦" 1 ^/rs 




J 


-!-._„k/^K^_L\__.. 






»-t M U T ,K 2ML \\ 

1 ■ ' 


B 




♦- , 










^ f 


r 








6 


•t .8 (4 IsllF" 22 




G 


C 




tj.^ i^JSg 


\- 








^ ^— --r;:::^^^^^^^^ 23 \ 


46, 




.^^=^==^^32 - K 


\ \ 




• ' / \ 

• '<^^ ' ' / \ 


A 1 




• / / 


\\l 






\x 




• / / 


\ \ 




•" / / 


v\ ^ 




• / / 


\\% 




•■ / 


\ \* "^ 




• ^ / 


\ \ ^ 




• ' / 


\ ^^ 




•" ' / 


\ \ \ 




• / / 


\ ^ \ \ 




^ 1 I 


\ ^ \ ^ 




- '/ 


\ ■ \ % 




• ^ / 


\ ■ 4av- ' 




♦- ^ / 


\ \jp^ 




• ^ / 


V."^ 






E 


^=--:r:iIl5S' '-^ 




A 


"-'■^ 1 




DIAGRAP 


36 — 


CASSOCK 



24 



COATS 



§2 




§2 



COATS 



25 



Clerical Frock 



Diagram 37 



13. The measures are taken over the \ est always. 
Jiiside sleeve 17;>4 inches Blade (with l^ inches for 
Breast 
Waist 

Hip or seat 
.^trap 
Over shoulder 



36 inches seams added) 1 2 >< inches 
32 inches Depth of scye 9 inches 

27 inches Natural waist 16% inches 
12 inches Fashion waist \8j4 inches 
17 inches Full length 38 inches 

Height 5 feet 6 inches 

Form and Attitude, normal. .Sizes, 33 to 42 breasts. 



8 
9 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 

32 

33 
34 
3S 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 

41 

42 



To Draft. 
Square both ways from A or 4. 
4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds"' and 3/2 inches (9>^). 
B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and 3}^ inches. 
A is half way between 3 and 4. 

This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 
A to C is one- fourth height, and ^ inch for length. 
A to D is the fashion waist; one-fourth height and I'/z 

inches (,1814 J. 
D to 50 is lj4 inches, line from A through 50 to E. 
A to E is the Full Length of Back. 
1'" is half between 4 and B, for front shoulder height. 
Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 
B to H is half the full breast measure. 
H to 1 is 2j^ inches, center of breast (18). 
B to K is blade (with 1^ inches for seamsj (12,'/2). 
Square up from K — front of armhole. 
L is half way between B and K. 
L to M is 1^ inches — width of Back. 
Square up to O, and down to P. 
P is ^ inch from line O-M. Square down to 13. 
A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths," and 
Q to R is iy2 inches. Square up to S, y& inch. 
K to T is lyi inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 
Square up from U to V — locating the shoulder point. 
\' is located on lines from U and A. 
Draw lines from S to U, F to V, and A to K. 
This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 
Rise a.tX yi inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 
X is J^ inch on the S-U line — or Style. 
Y is ^ inch from the O-M line. 
Draw guide line from X to Y. 
From B up apply depth of scye measure and '/j inch 

( 19>2 j to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 
The >1 inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 
C to G is 1/16 breast and 1J4 inches. 
E to N is the same width as 50 to G, and i/j inch. 
Draw a line from G to N and from 
49 to G for width of Back over breast-line. 
49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 
Blade fullness is ^ inch over the rounding. 
Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 
Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V 

(13), in normal attitude will meet line A-V. 
Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V (18). 
Z is 1J4 inches from line K. 



56 



Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

\' to point 1 is }i inch less than S to X. 

Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

Shape arni-scye and shoulder rounding '/, inch over Z. 

15 to 2 is y. breast on "halves"; 2 to K is 3/2 inches. 

'i'his is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 
Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

4 to 5 is 3/2 waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 
Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front center 
of the waist, and to check the blade measure. 

5 to 8 is 214 inches; 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. 
These 2^4 inches are for seams and make-up. 

G to 22 is 1% inches, or 134 inches in all sizes to allow 

for blade fullness and 'yi inch for every inch tlie 

waist is smaller than the breast. 
Square up, and down to 23 ; 23 is ^ inch below the 

fashion waist; or sweep from the Back by Y. 
Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16. 
Shape side body reducing j4 inch near Y, ^ inch at 

breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. 
\' to 18 is 1/12 breast; .square forward from 18 by K. 

18 to 19 is j4 breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

19 to 20 is 134 inches; I to J is the same. 
5 to 6 is 134 inches; square down. 

Shape the front and fore part from 13 to 10. 

The front is finished with 7 holes to the waist. 

The collar is cut on the military style (see collars) 

and is 1 inch high finished, and a '4 inch back 

from 19. 
Making an opening of l'/, inches in the collar. 
l'"or medium full skirt, rise at 32 a. yi inch and .square 

down by 23. 
23 to 12 is 1/3 breast, and 34 inch. 
12 to 11 is 134 inches; 11 to 27 is -'4 inch. 
Draw a line from 23 through 11 and 14. 
14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 
23 to bottom is 34 inch more than D to E. 
Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. 
Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. 
Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. 
Draw line 14 to 7 ; shape bottom ; lower 1 inch at 17. 
Square down the front edge to 7. by the waist line. 
Take out a fish 3^ inch, 1/6 up from 15. 
Go out 34 from D and line parallel to 30-E. 
Reduce Vs inch at B from A to C. 



Knight Templar Coat 

12. This coat is drafted the same as a Frock Coat. 

1 With a medium flare skirt. 

2 The front is finished like a clerical, with 13S inches 

stand for buttcjns in front and 1 1 holes. 

3 The collar is the same as a military. 

4 The skirt has a side edge or sash, about 2/3 the length 

down, and a button at each end. 



26 



COATS 



Sleeves 



14. The Sleeve.— The sleeve forms a much more 
important part of coat cutting than is generally accorded 
it by most cutters. If the coat is otherwise well cut, an 
improperly cut sleeve, or badly balanced in the hang, 
will pull the coat and distort it from its proper position. 

Sleeve In Co.\t. 

15. The Test. — Diagram 3. A study of this dia- 
gram will clearly indicate its proper position and the rela- 
tion it holds to the coat, as drafted, or when attached to 
the coat, and prove every point and line. The same result 
is obtained if drafted without the coat. 

16. The Top Sleeve. — The intersecting lines at G 
are obtained from three directions— by the proportional 
lines B to O and A through M to K; the actual measure 
from C to G. The height is established by the lines G-V 
and O-M. The front run should end at B, not at C. 

17. The Rule that all lines should be drawn to 
stationary or fixed points, never to movable points, holds 
throughout this system, whether Coats, Vests or Trousers. 
Nearly all sleeves are drawn to C from J, producing 
too much cloth opposite C, necessitating a cutting by the 
journeyman from the sleeve or the armhole. By revers- 
ing the top sleeve tlie location of the notch proves itself — 



that it is exactly }i inch. In half-and-half sleeve a seam 
is added between C and the notch, which brings the run 
to its natural position. 

18. Undersleeve. — The undersleeve has caused 
more trouble and worry than most any other part of the 
garment. The run of the undersleeve should be on a line 
drawn from point S through Y continued to C. It cer- 
tainly should follow the armhole, because there is where 
it must come to when sewed onto the coat. If a sleeve 
run is away from Y when drafted, it will pull on the 
coat when sewed in, causing breaks and wrinkles on the. 
coat back of the arm. This brings the location of R to 
ys sleeve from G. A to J is also Ys sleeve. 

19. Proof. — Reversing the sleeve, laying point R 
of the undersleeve to G, the rim should follow the line 
from B to O, keeping breast line even. 

20. The Elbow. — The elbow of the sleeve should 
be on the waist line of the coat ; the width should be % 
breast and 4J4 inches from N to I. The % breast should 
meet point 13, or the M-O line. The width of the top 
sleeve, when reversed, should meet point 6 on front and 
run through point J on breast line. The cuff of the 
undersleeve should meet line 44-17. 44 is half way be- 
tween B and M. 



Sleeve— Diagram 38 



1 'J'he front notch on the coat is }i inch up from the 

breast line always. 

2 The back notch is on line F always. 

3 Measure from the front notch over the shoulder to 

the back notch for the upper sleeve. 

4 9K' inches for a 36 breast. 

5 21. Measure the under sleeve from front notch 

under the arm to the hack notch over all the 
seams. 

6 Syi inches for a 36 breast. 

7 Always follow the edge of the pattern with the tape 

line in measuring for sleeve size. 

8 On Overcoats do not measure fullness or drapery. 

9 Inside sleeve length, 17' i inches; cuff width, 12'/2 

inches. 

10 Upper sleeve, 9j/> inches ; under sleeve, 8^ inches. 

11 Total, 18 inches — the drafting size for the sleeve. 

12 The length of inside sleeve is one-fourth height and 

1J4 inches. 

13 The outside length should read 7-\9y2-3\ ; that is, 

7 inches for width of back, 19'/4 to the elbow, 
and 31 inches full length. I 

14 The outside sleeve measure is taken to 1 inch beyond 

the wrist bone while the arm is in a bent position, 
the elbow even height with the shoulder, and the 
hand about 7 inches in front of the face. To this 
length seams must be added. 



15 Mark the measures on the sleeve paper before draft- 

ing. 

To Draft. 

16 Cut off a piece of paper large enough for a pair of 

sleeves and fold it with a sharp crease. 

17 Place fold edge away from you, and draw a line 

about 1 J/$ inches from edge of fold as from A to E. 

18 22. The Top Sleeve.— Square from A back to G. 

19 A to B is F to B on Coat— half depth of scye (4-^4). 

20 B to C is ^ inch always — ^the front notch. 

21 B to D is the inside sleeve length (17^). 

22 D to E is lJ/2 inches — back length of cuff. 

23 F is half way between A and E — the elbow. 

24 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 

25 C diagonally to G is the upper sleeve measure (9^). 

26 Square down from G to H. 

27 A to J is ^ sleeve ; draw a line from J to B. 

28 B to K is 1/3 drafting size — on "3rds" (6). 

29 Draw a line from G to K, locating L. 

30 G to L is height of sleeve to M. or M is 1/12 sleeve 

from line A. 

31 Shape the upper sleeve from G to M and J to B. 

32 F to N is ^ inch ; H to I is the same. 

33 The distance from N to I is the width of the sleeve 

over elbow — J4 breast and 4^ inches ahvays for 
all normal sizes. 

34 D to P is J4 inch. Shape from B through N to P. 



§ 2 



COATS 



27 



35 i' to y is >2 width of sleeve cult, including seams 

36 Draw a line from P to Q. 

37 To make the seams come even over the elbow and 

to prevent folds running diagonally from head of 
sleeve to elbow, which will happen to all sleeves 
where the upper sleeve meets the under sleeve at 
or near the elbow — 

38 Go out 3-2 inch from I to O for upper sleeve. 

39 Go in 3<^ inch from I to H for under sleeve. 

40 Draw guide line from G to O and O to Q. 

41 Shape, and finish top sleeve as represented. 

42 23. The Under Sleeve.— G to R is i^ sleeve. 

43 Draw line from R to K. 

44 Shape under-arm curve from R to front notch at C. 

45 Allow two seams or j,^ inch back of R and shape 

through H to Q. 

46 This is called the half-and-half sleeve, because they 

are cut of equal size, or in half. 

47 If it is desired to change the seams, especially the 

front seam, so as to bring it more in under the arm 
and not to show in front, proceed as explained in 
the next paragraph. 

48 24. To Change the Inseam. — Allow -4 inch more 

on the upper sleeve and take off the same amount 
of under sleeve, from line B, N. P, as follows: 

49 From B to S, N to T and P to U is J4 inch for the 

upper sleeve; draw guide line and shape. 

50 From B to V, N to W and P to X is ^ inch for the 

under sleeve ; draw guide line and shape. 

51 25. The Pattern is cut through both papers after 

the upper sleeve ; also the notch at C. 

52 The under layer becomes the top sleeve; use it to 

shape by, from V to X, and to get the length. 

53 Turn the paper around, place the now upper sleeve 

even with Q and get the length to two seams back 
of R. 

54 The length will always be about j4 inch above line A. 

55 Shape the run of seam through elbow. 

56 Cut out the under sleeve and compare with top 

sleeve. 

57 26. The Seams. — Both the front and side seams 

always should run straight as far up as the cuf? 
reaches. 

58 The run of the top sleeve at the hand should be 

straight from Q to P, to fit the shirt cutif; the 
under sleeve is hollowed from Q to X. 

59 27. Narrow Shoulders. — To fit the sleeve to nar- 

row shoulders, rise at M a J4 inch, or the amount 
the shoulders are less than normal, and shape 
gradually from G through M to B. 



Overcoat Sleeve — Diagram 39 

60 The upper sleeve, \0}2 inches for a 36 breast. 

61 The under sleeve, 9^ inches. Total, 20 inches. 

62 Length, }< inch; cuff, lyi inches more than under- 

coat. 



03 The sleeve fur an Uvercoat is measured and drafted 
the same way as for an Undercoat from measures. 

65 28. Overcoat Sleeve. — Diagram represents an Un- 

dercoat sleeve and an Overcoat sleeve made from 
an Undercoat sleeve. 

66 Draw a line from B through G and add 1 inch. 

67 Lines B and G must be same height as B-F on Over- 

coat. 

68 Add ^^ , inch to width at hand, and shape side seam. 

69 Shape top rounding from G to B; add yi inch to 

length. 

70 Add the same amount to under sleeve. 



Box Undersleeve — Diagram 40 

71 29. Box Under Sleeve. — (Dia.j — First make the 

regular undef sleeve and cut it out; place it on 
another piece of paper and mark all around it as 
indicated on the diagram by the letters R, V, X 
and Q. 

72 Mark at B the amount of drapery, 1 inch or more. 

73 Pivot the pattern at X and swing it over to B. 

74 Shape from B to X ; the broken line shows the posi- 

tion. 

75 Remove the pattern and fill in the scye about a % 

inch. 

76 The shaded part represents the box sleeve. 

77 The top sleeve is the same as regular Overcoat sleeve. 




Diagram 38 — Sleeves 



28 



COATS 



§2 




y. i Jo 



e: -->^a 

Diagram 39 — Overcoat Sleeve 




Diagram 40 — Box Undersleeve 





Diagram 41 — Raglan Coat with Sleeve 



Diagram 42 — Raglan Sleeve 



§ 3 



COATS 
PART THREE 



Raglan Coat 



Diagram 41 

7S 30. The Raglan Coat is drafted the same as other 
Overcoats, either the Box or Chesterfield effect, 
as desired. 

79 To prepare for the sleeves, proceed as follows; 

80 The front notch is always 94 i"ch up from the breast 

line. 

81 The back notch is always on line F, for drafting pur- 

poses. 

82 Draw a straight Hue from S to Y, or the inside run 

of the armhole. 

83 Square out from this line from 26 to X. 

84 26 to 27 is l^i inches. 

85 Shape from S through 27 to Y. See diagram. 

86 Draw a line from V to the front of armhole. 

87 Square by this line from 28 to point 1. 

88 28 to 29 is 1>4 inches. 

89 Shape from V through 29 to the notch. 

90 Move the seam down in the gorge Jj inch or more 
from V and re-shape to 29. 

91 The shaded part represents the cut-off. 

92 31. Measure for Sleeve. — From front notch over 

the shoulder through point 1 to the back notch, 
for the upper sleeve : 

93 10^ inches for a 36 breast Overcoat. 

94 32. Measure under sleeve from front notch under 

the arm to back notch, including seams : 

95 9y2 inches for a 36 breast Overcoat. 

96 In measuring armhole for sleeve always follow the 

edge of the pattern, not including fullness or 
drapery. 

97 If a Box Coat, draft imder sleeve as shown in "Box 

Under Sleeve." 

98 Measure the distance from the back notch in a 

straight line to S — 7}i inches. 

99 Measure the distance from the front notch in a 

straight line to V — 10J4 inches. 

Raglan Sleeve 
Diagram 41 

To Draft. 
Upper sleeve, 10^ inches. 
Under sleeve, 9j^ inches. 
Depth of scye, B to F, 5^ inches. 
Front length, 10^ inches. 
Back length, 7; 4 inches. 
Inside length, 18^4 inches. 

100 Diagram Represents the sleeve without any shoulder 

seam, the position as drafted in the coat and the 
principle on which it is based, namely : To obtain 
the required length over the shoulder. 

101 The broken lines represent the pieces as cut off from 

the coat and placed in position to get the length; 
or, in other words, the width across the shoulder 
from V to Z, less two seams. 
This style of sleeve is not used much at present, 
because it is nearly impossible to get the square 
shoulder effect desired at the present date. 



Diagram 42 

1U2 34. Represents the same sleeve drafted separately. 

103 iMnish the Raglan sleeve the same as an ordinary 

Overcoat sleeve; then proceed as follows: 

104 Extend the lines A and G upwards to 4 and 3. 

105 Apply the back length, 7% inches, from G to 3 and 

sweep forward to 5. 

106 3 to 7 is 2 inches; draw a line from 7 to G. 

107 Apply the front length, 10^4 inches, and l^^ inches 

(11/2), from C to 4 and sweep back to 5. 

108 4 to 8 is 2 inches. 

109 Square up from N through 5 to 6. 

110 In normal N is half way between B and G line. 

111 In stooping forms this line would be moved forward, 

and in erect forms would be farther back. 

112 Draw a line across the top of sleeve at L. 

113 Measure the width across the shoulders from V 

through Z. 

114 Apply this amount to the line drawn on top of sleeve 

at L to 6, less j/2 inch for two seams. 

115 35. The Test. — A sweep forward from 6 should 

meet 8. 

116 It will be noted it gives three ways to test the accu- 

racy of the measures, or check them — 

117 First, by the length from C to 4 to 5. 

118 Second, by the length from G to 3 to 5. 

119 Third, by the shoulder width to 6. 

120 Sweep forward from 8, pivot at N ; mark off ^ inch 

on sweep line from 8 for two seams, and draw 
a line to B. 

121 Add % inch to 7 for two seams (and the 3^ inch 

lowered from point V) ; draw a line to L. 

122 Draw a line from 8 to L, and shape. 

123 9 is 154 inches from the straight line. 

124 Make a notch JX inch up from 9 and at 29. 

125 The shoulder back notch is on line W, and the sleeve 

notch is squared in from the straight line to 7. 
The curved line is yi inch in. 

126 Shape back sleeve from 7 to G and front sleeve 

through 9 to B. 

127 This completes the diagram. The shaded part repre- 

sents the sleeve. 

128 The shaded part on the Coat can be left on for the 

try-on, if desired. Medium wadding is provided 
for. 

The Split Raglan Sleeve 

129 36. Split Sleeve. — If it is desired to split the sleeve 

mark center line half way between P-Q and N-I 
and at line N. 

130 Allow a seam or more on each side and shape as 

shown on diagram. 



COATS 



S 3 



Chesterfield 

Diagram 43 



1. The measures are taken over N'est always. 

Inside Sleeve \7^ inches. Blade (with \}i inches for 

Breast 

Waist 

Hip or seat 

Strap 

Over shoulder 



36 inches. seams added) 12>4 inches. 
32 inches. Depth of scye 9 inches 

37 inches. Natural waist 16)4 inches. 
12 inches. Full length 37 inches. 
17 inches. Height 5 ft. 6 inches. 

F'orm and attitude, normal. Sizes, 33 to 42 breasts. 

In drafting overcoats, the same measures are used as 
taken over the vest for an undercoat. 

In applying the measures, obtain all points the same 
as for an undercoat, then add 1 inch which gives the 
allowance for the overcoat as follows: 

A to B is 1/3 breast and 3>^ inches 9>4 proportional ; or 
actual depth of scye and '/j inch for an undercoast ; then 
add 1 inch for the overcoat, making it lOjX inches. 

To apply strap and overshoulder measure from A to 
R and 3 to V and from the X above B to W and from 
3 to Z. use it as an undercoat measure, as strap 12 and 

I inch for seams; overshoulder 17 and 1 inch for making 
u)) below the X belong to the overcoat. 

The old idea of adding 3 or 4 sizes to an undercoat is 
certainly illigical and very unscientific ; it simply produces 
a larger undercoat but does not make an overcoat. 

Why add }i inch to blade and only }4 inch to the 
depth of scye; which leaves only j4 inch addition to the 
strap, and 'j inch addition to the overshoulder/ 

To test — draft an undercoat and lay inside the overcoat, 
try that on your system and the same on this; the result 
will show for itself. 

■]"() Dr.\ft. 

1 Square both ways from A. 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast and 3^1 inches Add 1 inch. 

3 B to A is 1/3 breast of height, and 3y2 inches (10>^). 

4 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

5 A to C is natural waist (16^4) Add 1 inch. 

6 C to D is 1/3 breast, on "3rds" ; (6) seatline. 

7 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

8 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

y F is half between B and A Add >^ inch. 

10 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 

II C to G is '/i inch ; draw line F to G and down to E. 

12 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

13 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

14 H to I is 2;/2 inches, center of breast Add 1 inch. 

l.S B to K is blade, with seams Add 1 inch. 

16 Square up from K to 3 is — Add 1 inch. 

17 L is half way between B and K. 

18 L to M is 1J4 inches— width of Back. 

19 Square up to O, and down to N Add 1 inch. 

20 P is J/> inch from Line O-M ; draw line to N. 

21 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths," and 

22 Q to R is 1 'A inches ; square up to S, % inch. 

23 K to T is I'.i inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

24 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 



25 V is located on line from U and A. 

26 Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. 

27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

28 Rise ntXyi inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

29 X is 3/^ inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

30 Y is >4 inch from the O-N line, and 1/12 up from M, 

31 plus ^ inch; draw guide line from Y to P. 

32 From B up apply depth of scye measure and ^ inch 

( lOyi ) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 

33 The 1/2 inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

34 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 
3.T Apply strap measure, and 1 inch A to R and 3 to V 

in normal attitude will meet line A-V. 

36 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

3 to Z ; when normal, meet line F-V. 

37 Z is 1J4 inches from line K. 

38 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

39 \' to point 1 is 3/ inch less than S to X. 

40 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

41 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding J/2 inch over Z. 

42 B to 2 is 3^2 breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3>4 inches. 

43 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade. 

44 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

45 4 to 5 is 1/2 waist — on "halves" Add 1 inch. 

46 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, ,4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

47 5 to 8 is 2>/> inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 

48 These 2y2 inches are for seams and make-up. 

49 Apply hip measure and }i inch, width of Back from 

12 to D and 10 to 1 1 Add 1 inch. 

50 11 to 12 is 1^ inches; square up, locating 13. 

51 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11 is l-j4 inches.) 

52 Draw a line from 13 through 11 to 14 Add 1 inch. 

53 Measure waist and 1J4 inches P to G and 8 to 16. 

Add 1 inch. 

54 Y to 14 is the length from Y to N. 

55 Shape side seam of forepart from Y to 16, going out 

^ inch over 11 to \4 — or Style. 

56 (Reduce 1/2 in. from Y to 16 when no underarm cut.) 

57 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. 

58 The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 

59 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1 inch at 17. 

60 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by 3. 

61 18 to 19 is 14 breast Add 1 inch. 

62 Draw a line from 19 to I and 5. 

63 19 to 20 is 2y2 inches; notch, ^4 inch from 19. 

64 I to J is 25^ inches ; 5 to 6 is the same. 

65 Go in J/2 inch at 7 ; draw line from 6 and shape front. 

66 V to 21 is \j4 inches; draw line to end of roll. 

67 The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and y inch from K. 

68 (For double-breasted add 2 inches to the front.) 

69 In applying seat measure to Overcoats or any coat 

with flare skirt, the normal lines should be used, 
not the flares. 



§3 



COATS 




DIAGRAM 43 CHESTERFIELD 



COATS 



§3 




DIAGRAM 44 — CHESTERFIELD CORPULENT 



§3 



COATS 



Chesterfield Corpulent 



Diagram 44 



2. The measures are taken over the Vest always 
Inside sleeve 19^ inches. Corpulent 3 degree 

Ureast 48 inches. Blade (with 1^ inches for 

Waist bO'/z inches. seams added) ISyl in. 

Hip or seat 49 inches. Depth of scye 10>^ inches. 

Strap 14^ inches. Natural waist I834 inches. 

Over shoulder 20^ inches. Full length 42 inches. 

Height 6 feet, 

l-'orni and attitude, normal. Sizes 42 to 52 breasts. 



To Draft. ■ 

1 Square both ways from 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breast and 3^ inches Add 1 inch 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and oyi inches. 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is natural waist (18j4) Add 1 inch 

7 C to D is 1/3 breast, on "3rds" ; (8) seat-line. 

8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

10 F is half between B and 4 Add ^j inch 

1 1 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

12 C to G is 3/2 inch; draw line F to G and down to E. 

13 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

14 B to H is half the full breast measure (24). 

15 H to I is Zj/z inches, center of breast Add 1 inch. 

16 B to K is blade, with seams Add 1 inch. 

17 Square up from K to 3 Add 1 inch. 

18 L is half way between B and K. 

19 L to M is lj4 inches, width of Back. 

20 Square up to O, and down to N Add 1 inch 

21 P is ^ inch from Line O-M; draw line to N. 

22 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths/' and 

23 Q to R is I1/2 inches; square up to S, ^ inch. 

24 Point S is half way between upper and lower s. 

25 Advance from K, 1/16 inch each size above 4 inches 

less than breast. To straighten the front run, take 
it out in the underarm cut as shown by shaded 
part. 
20 K to T is 1^'4 inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

27 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

28 V is located on lines from U and 4. 

29 Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. 

30 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

3 1 Rise at X ^ inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

32 X is 3/^ inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

33 Y is yi inch from the O-N line, and 1-12 up from M, 

plus }4 inch. 

34 Draw guide line from Y to P. 

35 From B up apply depth of scye measure and J4 inch 

to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 

36 The Vj inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 



37 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

38 Apply strap measure, and 1 incii A to R and 3 to V 

in normal attitude will meet line 4-V. 

39 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to \V and 

3 to Z; when normal, meet line F-V. 

40 Z is 134 inches from line K. 

41 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

42 V to point 1 is >< inch less than S to X. 

43 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

44 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding '/z inch over Z. 

45 B to 2 is 3^ breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is iyi inches. 

46 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade. 

47 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

48 4 to 5 is 3/2 waist — on "halves" Add 1 inch 

49 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

50 5 to 8 is 2 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 

51 These 2 inches are for seams and make-up. 

52 In corpulency, measure the waist first and obtain the 

hip spring from it. This rule applies where the 
waist is even, or more, than the breast. 

53 Measure waist and 1^4 inches P to G and 8 to 16. 

Add 1 inch 

54 Square down from 16 to 12; 12 to 11 is l^:\ inches. 

55 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11 is 1^ inches.) 

56 Draw a line from 16 through 11 to 14 Add 1 incli. 

57 Y to 14 is the length from Y to N. 

58 Shape side seam of forepart from Y to 16, going out 

^ inch over 11 to 14 — or Style. 

59 (Reduce yi inch from Y to 16 when no underarm 

cut.) 

60 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. 

61 The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 

62 Draw line 14 to 7 ; shape bottom ; lower 1 inch at 17. 

63 Measure hip and ^ inch; width of Back from 12 to 

D, and from 10 to 11 Add 1 inch 

64 Draw line 15 and take out the shaded part. 

65 Open at 2 the amount of seat surplus and fold 33 on 

34 by cutting to pocket and to front of pocket. 

66 The surplus 2>4 inches opens the pocket ^ inch. 

67 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by 3 

68 18 to 19 is 14 breast Add 1 inch 

69 Draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

70 Advance at I the amount from K to 3. 

71 19 to 20 is 254 inches notch 34 inch from 19. 

72 I to J is 23/ inches, 5 to 6 is the same. 

73 Go in yi inch at 7 ; draw line from 6 and shape front. 

74 V to 21 is V/i inches; draw line to end of roll. 

75 The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and 34 inch from K. 

76 (For double-breasted add 234 inches to the front.) 

77 The buttons are 4 inches from the edge. 



COATS 



§ 3 



Box Overcoat 

Diagram 45 



3. The measures arc taken over the Vest always. 
Inside sleeve 17^ inches. Blade (with Iji inches for 
Breast 36 inches. seams added) 12>^ in. 

Waist 32 inches. Depth of scye 9 inches. 

Hip or seat 37 inches. Natural waist 16% inches. 

Strap 12 inches. Full length 38 inches. 

Over shoulder 17 inches. Height 5 feet 6 inches. 

Form and attitude, normal. Sizes 33 to 48 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A. 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast and 3;j inches Add 1 inch 

3 B to A is 1/3 breast of height, and 3>4 inches (10>4). 

4 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

5 A to C is natural waist (16%) Add 1 inch 

C to D is 1/3 breast, on "3rds" (6) seat-line. 

7 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

8 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

9 F is half between B and A Add 3/2 inch 

10 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and F. 

11 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

12 H to I is 2'/. inches, center of breast. . . .Add 1 inch 

13 B to K is blade, with seams Add 1 inch 

14 Square up from K to 3 Add 1 inch 

15 L is half way between B and K. 

16 L to M is 1% inches — width of Back. 

17 Square up to O and down to P. 

18 A to Q is 1/12 breast— on "12ths"— and 

19 Q to R is 1 J<2 inches ; square up to S, ^ inch. 

20 K to T is 1% inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

21 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

22 V is located on lines from U and A. 
2i Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. 

24 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

25 Rise at X J/2 inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

26 X is J/2 inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

27 Y is y^ inch from the (.)-N lino, and 1/12 up from M. 
2» P to 12 is 2 inches. 



29 P to 11 is 3 inches. 

30 Draw lines from Y through 12 to N, and Y through 

11 to 14. 

31 If drapery is wanted, add to Y 1 inch and draw paral- 

lel line to N, from X. 

32 From B up apply depth of scye measure and i/j inch 

( 103/2) to A in normal attitude will meet line A. 

33 The y2 inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

34 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 
3h Apply strap measure, and 1 inch A to R and 3 to V 

(13) in normal attitude will meet line A-V. 
3b Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch (18) B to 
W and 3 to Z ; when normal, meet line F-V. 

37 Z is 154 inches from line K. 

38 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

39 V to point 1 is J^ inch less than S to X. 

40 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

41 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding J/2 in. over Z. 

42 B to 2 is >4 breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 31/2 inches. 

43 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade. , 

44 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

45 4 to 5 is J/2 waist — on "halves" Add 1 inch 

46 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

49 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. 

50 The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 

51 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1 inch at 17. 

52 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

53 18 to 19 is % breast Add 1 inch 

54 Draw a line from 19 to I and 5. 

55 19 to 20 is 2y2 inches ; notch J/2 inch from 19. 

56 I to J is 2j/^ inches ; 5 to 6 is the same. 

57 Go in J4 inch at 7; draw line from 6 and shape front. 

58 V to 21 is 1J4 inches; draw line to end of roll. 

59 The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and y> inch from K. 

60 (For double-breasted add 2J4 inches to the front.) 



§3 



COATS 




COATS 




DIAGRAM 46 -FROCK OVERCOAT 



§ 3 



COATS 



Frock Overcoat 

Diagram 46 



4. Tlie measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Inside sleeve 17^ inches. Blade (with 1^4 inches for 



Breast 

Waist 

Hip or seat 

Strap 

( )ver shoulder 



36 inches. 
32 inches. 
2i7 inches. 
12 inches. 
17 inches. 



•"urni and attitude, nnrnial 



seams added) \2y2 in. 
Depth of scye 9 inches. 
Natural waist 16% inches. 
Fashion waist 18% inches. 
Full length 41 inches. 

Height 5 feet 6 inches. 

Sizes, 33 t(j 42 breasts. 



inch 



1 inch 
1 inch 
1 inch 



To Dk.mt. 

1 Square both ways from A. 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast and 3% inches Add 1 inch 

3 B to A is 1/3 breast of height, and 3j/j inches. 

4 A is half way between — and — . 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is natural waist (16 '4) Add 1 inch 

7 A to D is the fashion waist ; one-fourth height and 

IJ^ inches (18% ) Add 1 inch 

8 D to 50 is 1% inches, line from .A through 50 to E. 

9 A to E is the Full Lenth of Back. 

10 F is half between A and B Add 

1 1 Square out from .\, B, C, D, E and F. 

12 I! to H is half the full breast measure. 

13 H to I is 2% inches, center of breast. . . .Add 

14 B to K is blade (with seams) .'\dd 

15 Square up from K to 3 .Vdd 

16 L is half way between B and K. 

17 L to M is 1% inches — width of Back. 

18 Square up to O, and down to P. 

19 P is J-4 inch from Line O-M. Square down to 13. 

20 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths"— and 

21 O to R is 1% inches. Square up to S, ^ inch. 

22 K to T is 1.'4 inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

23 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

24 A' is located on lines from U to A. 

25 Draw lines from S to U, h' to \', and A to K. 

26 This gives- the proportional height of shoulders. 

27 Rise at X %'inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

28 X is y, inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

29 Y is K' i"ch from the O-M line. 

30 Draw guide line from X to Y. 

31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and ' I> inch 

to A in normal attitude will meet line A. 

32 The % inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

33 C to G is 1/16 breast and 1% inches. 

34 E to N is the same width as SO to G, and %. inch. 

35 Draw line from G to N and froiu 

36 49 to G for width of Back over breast line. 

37 49 is on F-V and A-K lines. 

38 Blade fullness is % inch over the rounding. 

39 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

40 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and 3 to V 

(13) in normal attitude will meet line A-V. 

41 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

3 to Z ; when normal, meet line F-V (18). 



42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 

49 
50 
51 



Z is 1% inches from line K. 

Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

V to point 1 is y. inch less than S to X. 

Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding % in. over Z. 

B to 2 is % breast on "iialvks" ; 2 to K is 3% inches. 

This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade. 
Square down fmm K thnjugh 4 to 17. 

4 to 5 is % waist— on "ii.\lves" Add in inch. 

Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of the waist, and to check the blade niea.surc. 

5 to 8 is 2% inches; 9 to 10 is 1/6 breast. 
These 2% inches are for seams and make-up. 

( I to 22 is 1% inches, or 1% inches in all sizes, to 

allow for blade fullness and % inch for every incli 

the waist is smaller than the breast. 
Square up, and down to 23 ; 23 is j^ inch below the 

fashion waist, or sweep from the Back by Y. 
Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16 

Add 1 inch 

Shape side body reducing % i"fh near Y, Ys inch at 

breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to l.v 
A y inch should be added to 22 for ease. 
\ to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 
18 to 19 is % breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 
Add % inch rounding over the breast. 
Rever — 19 to 20 is 1 ' j inches, or draw a straight line 

through 5-9; straighten 3 2 inch at 20. 
10 to 24 is 2y, ins. ; 10 to 25 the .same; sweep by 20. 
Draw a line from 13 to 24; shape from 13 to 25. 
The opening at 10 and 25 should be the same. 
Draw a line from K through 20 to 26. 
20 to 26 is 2% inches ; I to J is 3% inches. 
Shape lapel through 26 — J to 25. 
.Skirt — For a medium full skirt rise at 32 a ' j inch 

and square down by 23. 
Draw a line from 23 to 24; square down to 12. 
Flare — At 23 go up % inch and square down by 32. 
23 to 12 is 1/3 breast and y inch. 
12 to 11 is l'-2 inches; 11 to 27 is % inch. 
Draw a line from 23 through 11 and 14. 
14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 23. 
23 to bottom is % inch more than D to E. 
Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. 
Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. 
Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. 
Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1 inch at 17. 
Square down the front ei\ge to 7, by the waist line. 
Take out a fish % inch, 1/6 up from 15. 
Go out y from D and line parallel to 50-E. 
Reduce % inch at B from A to C. 
A Frock Overcoat should always be worn over a 

Frock Coat ; never over a Sack Coat. 



10 



COATS 



§3 



Ulster 



Diagram 47 



S. The measures arc taken over the \'est always. 
Inside sleeve I7}i inches. Blade (with 1J4 inches for 
Breast 36 inches. seams added) 12J/2 in. 

Waist 32 inches. Depth of scye 9 inches. 

Hip or seal 37 inches. Natural waist 16^ inches. 

Strap 12 inches. Full length 50 inches. 

Over shoulder 17 inches. Height 5 feet 6 inches. 

l-'orm and ailiiude, normal. Sizes, 33 to 42 breasts 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A. 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast and Z'/i inches Add 1 inch 

3 B to A is 1/3 breast of height and 3', j inches {lOyi). 

4 A is half way between — and — . 

5 This is the proportional and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is natural waist (16<j ) Add 1 inch 

7 C to D is 1/3 breast, on "3rds" (6) seat line. 

8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back (50). 

10 F is half between B and A Add >2 inch 

1 1 Square out from A, B, C, D, \i and F. 

12 C to G is [-2 inch ; draw line F to G and down to E. 

13 From the line just drawn inside of 11 measure to H. 

14 B to H is half the full breast measure (ISi. 

15 H to I is 2' J inches, center of breast. . . .Add 1 inch 

16 B to K is blade (with seams) Add 1 inch 

17 Square u]) from K to 3 Add 1 inch 

18 L is half way between B and K. 

19 L to M is 1>4 inches, width of Hack. 

20 Square up to O, and down to N .\dd 1 inch 

21 P is ]/i inch from Line O-M ; draw line to X. 

22 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12tiis" — and 

23 Q to R is ly^ inches ; square up to S, ^ inch. 

24 K to T is 1^ inches ; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

25 Square up from U to \'. locating the shoulder point. 

26 \' is located on lines from IJ and A. 

27 Draw lines from S to U, and F to \^. 

28 This gives the projwrtional height of shoulders. 

29 Rise at X '1 inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

30 X is J/2 inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

31 Y is yi inch from the O-N line, and 1/12 up from Al, 

plus J4 inch. 

32 Draw guide line from Y to P. 

33 From B up apply depth of scye measure and J< inch 

(lO'/j) to A in normal attitude will meet line A. 



The y'j inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 
Shape the Hack as shown ; draw line from B to W. 
Apply strap measure, and 1 inch A to R and 3 to V 

13 j in normal attitude will meet line A-V. 
Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch (18) B to 

\\' and 3 to Z ; when normal, meet line F-V. 
Z is 1^ inches from line K. 
Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 
\' to point 1 is }! inch less than S to X. 
Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 
Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding yi in. over Z. 
B to 2 is yi breast on "h.\lves" ; 2 to K is 3'/l. inches. 
This is normal lilade and independent of the actual 

blade. 
Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

4 to 5 is ^2 waist — on "h.\i.ve.s" Add 1 inch 

Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

5 to 8 is lyi inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 
These ly^ inches are for seams and make-up. 
.\pply flip measure and ^ inch for 3 seams ; width 

of Back from 12 to D and 10 to 11. .Add 1 inch 
11 to 12 is IV4 inches; square up, locating 13. 
(Proportional hip spring 12 to 11 is 1^4 inches.) 
Draw a line from 13 through 11 to 14. . . .Add 1 inch 
Measure waist and Ij/j inches P to G and 8 to 16 

Add 1 inch 

^' 10 14 is the length from Y to N. 

."^haiie side seam of forepart from Y to 16, going out 

y^ inch over 11 to 14 — or Style. 
(Reduce '/S in. from Y to 16 when no underarm cut.) 
Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. 
The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 
Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1 inch at 17. 
\' to 18 is 1/12 breast plus '/. incli ; square forward. 

18 to 19 is J4 breast Add 1 inch 

19 to 20 is 2 inches; add a seam in J\ 

20 to 26 is 33^ inches by 2. 
I to J and 5 to 6 is 4 inches. 

Go in y- inch at 7; draw line from 6 and shape front. 
The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and ' j inch from K. 
The collar is either a Prussian stvle or double stand. 



COATS 



11 




DIAGRAM 47 - DOUBLE-BREASTED ULSTER 



12 



COATS 



§3 




DIAGRAM 48 INVERNESS WITH CAPE 



COATS 



13 



Inverness With Cape 

Diagram 48 



6. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Inside sleeve 17% inches. Blade (with 1^4 inches for 
Breast 36 inches. seams added) 12^ in. 

Waist 32 inches. Depth of scye 9 inches. 

Hip or seat il inches. Natural waist 16% inches. 

Strap 12 inches. Full length 40 inches. 

Over shoulder 17 inches. Height 5 feet 6 inches. 

Form and attitude, normal. Sizes ZZ to 42 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A or 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breast and 3^ inches Add 1 inch 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 of height and 3yi inches (10^). 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is natural waist (16%) Add 1 inch 

7 C to D is 1/3 breast, on "3rds" ; (6) seat Hne. 

8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

10 F is half between B and 4 Add >^ inch 

11 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

14 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

15 H to I is 2>4 inches, center of breast Add 1 inch 

16 B to K is blade (with seams) Add 1 inch 

17 Square up from K to 3 Add 1 inch 

18 L is half way between B and K. 

19 L to M is 1% inches, width of Back. 

20 Square up to O, and down to N Add 1 inch 

21 A to Q is 1/12 breast— on ■T2ths— and 

22 Q to R is iy2 inches ; square up to S, ^ inch. 

23 K to T is 1% inches ; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

24 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

25 V is located on lines from U and A. 

26 Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. 

27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

28 Rise at X 2 inches and lower at point 1 the same. 

29 X is 1 inch on the S-U line— or Style. 

30 Y is >4 inch from the 0-N and yi inch below notch. 

31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and yi inch 

to A in normal attitude will meet line A (10>4). 

32 The Yi inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

33 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

34 Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and 3 to V 

in normal attitude will meet line A-V. 

35 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

3 to Z ; when normal, meet line F-V. 

36 Z is 134 inches from line K. 

37 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

38 V to point 1 is J^ inch less than S to X. 

39 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 



40 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding /2 in. over Z. 

41 B to 2 is >^ breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3>1 inches. 

42 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade. 

43 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

44 4 to 5 is >4 waist — on "halves" Add 1 inch 

45 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

46 5 to 8 is 2/2 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. 

47 These 2/2 inches are for seams and make-up. 

48 Apply hip measure and >'4 inch for 3 seams; width of 

Back from 12 to D and 10 to 11 Add 1 inch 

49.11 to 12 is 1% inches; square up, locating 16. 

50 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11 is 1% inches.) 

51 Y to 14 is the length from Y to N. 

52 Shape side seam of forepart from Y to 16 and 14. 

53 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. 

54 The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 

55 Draw line 14 to 7 ; shape bottom ; lower 1 inch at 17. 

56 V to 18 is 1/12 breast, plus yi inch; square from 18 

by K. 

57 18 to 19 is % breast Add 1 inch 

58 Draw a line from 19 to I and 5. 

59 19 to 20 is 2y2 inches ; notch >4 inch from 19. 

60 I to J is 2 inches ; 5 to 6 is 2 inches ; square down. 

61 Go in yi inch at 7; draw line from 6 and shape front. 

62 The side seams are notched at the waistline. 

63 The opening of front is made to measure. 

64 The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and yi inch from K. 

65 (For double-breasted add 3 inches to the front.) 

To Form the Wing or Cape 

66 Draw shoulder seam of the cape even with the fore- 

part, from V to 2 and from V to 19. 

67 Draw a line from 2 through B to 5. 

68 2 to 3 is % breast (4>^). 

69 3 to 4 is l3/< inches. 

70 Shape side seam of wing through points 4 and 2. 

71 The curve may be continued to the front shoulder, as 

shown on the diagram. 

72 The front edge of the wing is curved from the back 

of the break, or crease line. 

73 V to 32 in a direct line down is length desired (27). 

74 Sweep from 32 to 5 ; pivot at 2 ; finish to front. 

75 2 to notch on the wing in a straight line is the same 

as X to the notch on side seam. 

76 The front of cape is about 3>4 inches from edge. 

77 The buttons, 3 inches ; finished with hooks or buttons 

under collar. 



14 



COATS 



§ 3 



Shoulder Cape 

Diagram 49 



Breast, 36 inches. Length, 27^< inches. 

1 9. Square both ways from A. 

2 A to B is 1/3 breast and 3'/ inches Add 1 inch 

3 A to C is >^ height and ^ inch Add 1 inch 

4 A to E is the full length (27>4). 

5 Square out from B, C and E. 

6 B to H is half full breast (18) Add 1 inch 

7 A to Q is 1/12 breast— on "12tiis" and 

8 Q to R is Ij^ inches; square np to S ^ inch. 

9 A to O is half breast (10) Add 1 inch 

10 Square down to X, 1/6 breast (3). 

11 Draw lines from S to X and X through K to Y. 

12 Siiape from A to S, X to K. 
This completes the back part. 

1.^ 10. .\ to F is 1/6 and ^ inch. 



14 E to D is 2 inches. 

15 Sweep from D to Y; pivot at S. 

16 Shape the Back from E to Y. 

17 Shape front shoulder from R to X and gorge to F. 

18 F is 1 inch from line A, or to measure. 

19 B to J is 1 J4 inches ; square down. 

20 This finishes the front for hooks and eyes. 

21 To F and J add 1>4 inches for buttons. 

22 The broken lines show the position of the overcoat, 

and also prove the correct position of the cape. 

23 If the front cape is laid to the front, point J will fall 

on point I. 

24 It clears the shoulder, head and sleeve and brings the 

seams squarely on top of the shoulder. 

25 For shorter capes proceed the same way. 

26 For longer capes keep on line I from K down. 



Cape — Half Circle 



Diagram 50 



1 11. Square both ways from A. 

2 Place the pattern (Overcoat) in position. 

3 The back against line A-E and the front against line 

A-B. 

4 The shoulders to meet at X. 

5 Draw a line from K through G to F. 

6 Measure length desire<l from C to E. 



7 G to F is 2 inches more than C to E. 

8 D to B is 1 inch less than C to E. 

9 Reduce 1 inch from the front. This will leave a V/z- 

inch stand beyond the front center of an Overcoat, 
or hook and eye line. (See shoulder cape.) 
10 Sweep both ways from F; pivot at G and finish. 



Cape — Three -Quarter Circle 



Diagram 51 



1 12. Draw line O-P and place the forepart pattern 

(Overcoat) in position. 

2 Place back with the shoulder seam in a closing posi- 

tion and mark all around the upper part of the 
coat. 

3 Draw a line throngli ihc shoulder to Q. 

4 Measure length desired from R to S. 



5 T to Q is 2 inches more than R to S. 

6 N to P is 1 inch less than R to S. 

7 Reduce 1 inch from the front. This will leave 1^- 

inch stand beyond the front center of an Overcoat 
and is the hook and eye line. 

8 Sweep both ways from Q ; pivot at T and finish as 

represented. 



Cape — Circular 



Diagram 52 



1 13. Draw line M-I and place the pattern (Overcoat) 

in position. 

2 The back against the line drawn and the shoulders to 

meet at J. 

3 Draw a line from K through J to L. 

4 Measure length desired from M to 11. 



5 J to L is 2 inches more than M to H. 

6 N to I is 1 inch less than M to H. 

7 Reduce 1 inch from the front. This will leave 1^- 

inch stand beyond the front center of an Over- 
coat, and is the hook and eye line. 

8 Sweep both ways from L; pivot at J and finish. 



§3 



COATS 



15 





DIAGRAM 50 - CAPE HALF CIRCLE 



DIAGRAM 49 — SHOULDER CAPE 





DIAGRAM 52 — CAPE CIRCULAR 



DIAGRAM 51 — CAPE THREE-QUARTER CIRCLE 



COATS 



§ 3 



Tables of Proportions 



14. Tables of proportions are to most people great 
mysteries in the makeup; but if taken hold of and dis- 
sected to see the inside of them, they will be found to be 
really very simple, like anything else, once in the right 
direction. 

In the first place, it is impossible to make a table of 
proportion that will tit tlie majority of people in the 
I'liited States, because there is too much difference in 
the people in the different parts of the country. 

15. Persons who have had a chance to observe know 
that the average breast sizes of the people in New York 
city will be 17 breast, or between 35 and 38. In Chicago 
they will average 38 breast. 

In the middle West or mountain district the average 
will be 39 breast, and on the Pacific coast the average is 
40 breast. 

The stature also is very variable. Again, it is known 
the Southern people grow very tall and u.sually slim. 

Arguments perhaps will be advanced to show that 
wholesale houses must have such tables. Today the 
ready-to-wear houses take the orders first before any- 
tliing but standard sizes are made up ; consequently each 
locality orders what is needed in the way of sizes. It is 
now possible to order six suits or less from a manufac- 
turer. 

It brings us square up to the question : Why not make 
a table of proportions to fit the locality ? Why, of course, 

^■^^- TABLE 1. 

16. There are several ways of making tables of pro- 
])ortions. By trying to follow near to what the tailors 
arc wont to consider their ideal of standard; not that it 
is any better, but perhaps will be more readily understood. 

First determine what the "standard of height" shall 
be; this done, write Line 1. (If this don't suit, change it.) 

17. In this case it has been decided that 6 feet shall 
be the limit of height, and then gradually down again. 

Next place the breast sizes under each figure of 
height — Line 2. It has also been decided that 38 breast 
shall be the "Single Standard" of measurement. (The 
double standard of monetary units are not in vogue now.) 

Draw two vertical black lines on each side of 38. 

It has further been decided that there shall be 4 inches 
difference in the breast and waist. 

It will be argued that 4 inches is all right for 38 and 
under; but not for a 50 breast— all right, change it by 
proceeding as follows: 

Take Yi of the last figure of the breast, starting with 
38, and make line 3. 

Of 38, the last figure is 8, half of it is 4; half the 
last figure of 39 is 4^. ; half of the last figure of 40 is 5. 
W'ell, just increase Yi inch for each size, then there is 
no figuring. 

Deduct the 4 inches difference in waist and breast de- 
cided on. make line 4; 38 size, 4 from 4 leaves 0, or 
increase a J/> inch each size: the result is line 5. 

Place the waist sizes of 4 inches difference under each 
breast size starting from single standard column, making 
line 6. 



Add Imes 5 and 6, the result is line 7 ; or a gradually 
increasing waist size. 

How simple and correct it is, too. 

In other words, above the standard column each size 
increases \Yi inches; below it follows the 4 inches de- 
cided on. 

Next take the stouts and the corpulents. 

The "Single Standard" was decided on in heights and 
widths. 

The "Standard" heights, the "Standard" breasts, and 
the "Standard" waists have been obtained ; use them. 

In order to increase the waist circumference, it has 
been decided to deduct only 3 inches from the breast 
sizes. 

For the purpose of further emphasizing the stoutness, 
one size less in height is adopted ; thus — 

By moving the breast size one column to the left, and 
place 39 in the "Standard" column, instead of 38; leav- 
ing the height as it is ; write line 8. 

Deduct the 3 inches from 39 and it leaves 36 waist 
for a 5 ft. 8 inches stout. 

18. The standard above has been accepted, there- 
fore add lJ/2 inches increase to each waist size above 36, 
and deduct 3 inches even below the column ; the result is 
line 9. 

The waist sizes for the stouts or 1st degree of corpu- 
lency. 

Next take the corpulent and continue the same as the 
last ; deducting onlv 2 inches for a 2nd degree of cor- 
pulency. 

Place 40 in the column this time and write line 10. 
Deduct the 2 inches from 40, leaves 38 waist. 

Add \Yi inches increase to each waist size above 38 
and deduct 2 inches even below 40 breast. 

The result is line 11 ; the waist size for the corpulent 
in 2nd degree. 

19. A corpulent in 3rd degree, or 1 inch difference. 
Place the next highest breast size in the "Standard" 

column, this time 41, and write line 12. 

Deduct 1 inch difference, leaves 40. Add V/i inches 
increase to each waist size above 40, and deduct 1 inch 
even below 41 breast. The result is line 13. 

Lines 14, 15, 16 and 17 are the depth of scye, ob- 
tained as explained in the system. 

TABLE 2. 

20. Gives the same figures with the front shoulder 
and over shoulder measures for the normals and the 
depth of scye for the stouts. 

When the depth of scye is established correctly from 
height and width, it will give the strap and over shoulder 
measures without any table of calculations. 

This table can also be used for combining any height 
and width in the table. For example, 36 breast corpulent 
and 5 ft. 10 inches ; find depth of scye. 

Advance the same distance from each column along 
the scye line, which will bring it to 9% under the 5 ft. 
7 inches, which is correct. 



§ 3 



COATS 



17 



Table No. 1 



Line 



-5 ft.- 



-S ft.- 



. 1 Height, 5 ft. and inches 3 4 5 6 7 
2 Breast 33 ,^4 3.i 36 37 


8 

38 
4 
4 


34 
34 


9 9V, 10 10/3 11 lli^ 6- IIK' 11 10^ 10 9^2 
39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 
4J4 5 5^ 6 6/. 7 7y2 8 8'/o 9 9^4 10 
4.44444444444 
/^ 1 IM; 2 2'A 3 3J4 4 4;/. 5 5% 6 
35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 4.5 44 45 46 
35K> 37 38J^ 40 41 J^ 43 AAVz 46 47^^ 49 S0>^ 52 


4 4 inches deducted 

5 Balance added to waist 

6 4-in. waist added 29 30 31 2,2 33 

7 Total— Waist 29 30 31 32 33 


S Breast 34 35 36 37 38 

3 inches deducted 

9 Waist 31 32 33 34 35 


39 

3 

36 


40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 
i7y2 39 40J^ 42 43J^ 45 46^ 48 49/^ 51 52% 54 




10 Breast 35 36 37 38 39 

2 inches deducted 

1 1 Waist 33 34 35 36 37 


40 

2 

38 


41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 
3914 41 42'X 44 451^ 47 48H SO sVA 53 54^1 56 


12 Breast 36 37 38 39 40 

1 inch deducted 

13 Waist 35 36 2,7 38 39 


41 

1 

40 


42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 
41 Yz 43 44/, 46 47/ 49 50/ 52 53/ 55 56/ 58 


14 Depth of Scye 9 9^^ 9% 9j4 9?^ 

15 Stout— 1st Degree 9 9J4 9^ 9Vi 9% 

16 Corpulent— 2d Degree.. 9J4 9^ 9V2 9J4 9-% 

17 Corpulent— 3d Degree.. 9% 9.)i 9f^ 9J4 9% 


97A 
10 
10 
10^ 


10 \Q% W'A WVs 10/ 10/ 10.>^ 10?^ lOM mi \0'A 11 

10/ 10/ lOf^ 10/ 10^ \oy3 mi mi lo^ n ii ii 
10/ 10/ lOf^ 10/ 105^ 10^ xQVf, m/s n ii \va n% 
10/ 10)^ 10/ 10.;^ lOM 10^ 11 11/ 11/ 11/ 11/ 11/ 



Table No. 2 



-5 ft. 



-5 ft.- 



Heights, 5 ft. and inches.... 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 9/10 10/11 11/ 6ft. 11/11 10/10 9/ 

Breasts 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 

Waists, 4 in 29 30 31 32 33 34 35/ i7 38/40 41/43 44/46 47/49 50/52 

Depth of Scye 9 9/ 9/ 9/ 9^/ 9^10 10/ 10/ 10^ 10/ 10/ lOf^ lOj^ 10J4 10^ lOj^ 11 

Front of Shoulder 12/ 125^ 12^4 13 13/ 13/ 13-/ 14 14/ 14/ 14^^ 14J4 15 15/ 15/ 15/ 1SJ4 16 

Over Shoulder 17 17/ 17^ 18 18/ \Wi 19 19/ 19/ 19^ 20 20/ 20/ 20J4 21 21/ 21/ 21 J4 

Breasts— 1st Degree 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 

Waists, 3 in 31 32 33 34 35 36 37/39 40/42 43/45 46/48 49/51 52/54 

Depth of Scye 9/ 9/ 9f^ 9% 9^10 10/ 10/ lOfg 10/ 10^ 10^ 10^ 10% 10T6 10% 11 11 

Breasts— 2d Degree 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 

Waists, 2 in 33 34 35 36 37 38 39/41 42/44 45/47 48/50 51/53 54/56 

Depth of Scye 9/ 9/ 9/ 9-/ 9^10 10/ 10/ 10j| 10/ 10^ 10j4 10% 10% 11 11 11/11/ 

Breasts— 3d Degree 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 S3 

Waists, 1 in 35 36 37 38 39 40 41/43 44/46 47/49 50/52 53/55 56/58 

Depth of Scye 9/ 9iA 9% 9^ 9% 10/ 10/ 10/ 10/ 10?^ lOJi 10% 10% 11 ' 11 11/ 11/ 11/ 



18 



COATS 



Ji 3 



Vests 

Table No. 3 



Height 2 

u 

PQ 

5 ft. 3 in 33 

5 ft. 4 in..'... 34 

5 ft. 5 in 35 

5 ft. 6 in 36 

5 ft. 7 in Z7 

5 ft. 8 in 38 

5 ft. 9 in 39 

5 ft. 9>4 in 40 

5 ft. 10 in 41 

5 ft. 10>< in 42 

5 ft. 11 in 43 

5 ft. 111^ in 44 

5 ft. 3 in 36 

5 ft. 4 in 7,7 

5 ft. 5 in 38 

5 ft. 6 in 39 

5 ft. 7 in 40 

5 ft. 8 in 41 

5 ft. 9 in 42 

5 ft. 9>4 in 43 

5 ft. 10 in 44 

5 ft. \0y2 in 45 

5 ft. 11 in 46 

5 ft. W/, in 47 

6 ft. in 48 

5 ft. 11^4 in 49 

5 ft. 11 in 50 

5 ft. 10j/< in 51 

5 ft. 10 in 52 



O 2 






29 
30 
31 

34 



9 

9y& 

9Va 
9/2 

9/8 



35>^ 10 
37 10>^ 
38;4 io>4 

40 10^ 
41K' lOj^ 
43 lOYz 



12>4 17 11;M 

12% I7}i 12 
12^ 17% 12>4 

\2y^ 18 \2y2 

13 ■ 18M 12^ 
1314 18% 13 
13>^ 19 UYa 
UYa \9Y UYz 

14 191^ 13^ 
UYa 1934 14 
14% 20 1414 
lAYz 2OY4 14>4 



35 9Y4 12% 18 12^ 

36 9% 13 18^ 12% 

37 9% 13% 18% 13 

38 9% 13% 19 13% 

39 9% 13% 19% 13% 

40 10% 14 19% 13% 
41% 10% 14% 19% 14 
43 10% 14% 20 14% 



44% 10% 14% 20% 14% 
46 10% 14% 20% 14% 
47% 10% 15 20% 15 
49 10% 15% 21 15% 
50% 11% 15% 21% 15% 
52 11 15% 21% 15% 
53% 11 15% 21% 16 
55 11% 16 22 16% 
56% 11% 16% 22% 16% 



1% 23% 21% 
1% 24% 21% 
1% 24% 21% 

2 25 22 
2% 25% 22% 
2% 25% 22% 
2% 26 22% 

3 26% 23 
3% 26% 23% 
3% 27% 23% 
3% 27% 23% 

4 28 24 



2 24% 21% 
2% 25 22 
2% 25% 22% 
2% 25% 22% 

3 26% 22% 
3% -26% 23 
3% 27% 23% 
3% 27% 23% 



4 28 23% 
4% 28% 24 
4% 28% 24% 
4% 29% 24% 

5 29% 24% 
5% 29% 25 
5% 30 25% 
5% 30% 25% 

6 30% 25% 



To Scye has been added % inch. To Strap % inch. To Over- 
Shnulder 1 inch. To Rlade 1% inches. Lengths are net. 



§3 



COATS. 



19 



Making Up 



To the practical tailor the assertion will seem an al- 
most superfluous one, that the making up or putting to- 
gether of the garment is of the greatest importance. It 
may be necessary to state that the most thoughtful and 
accurate work of the cutter may be, and often is, com- 
pletely neutralized by the carelessness or incompetence of 
the workman, hence, in any work on cutting the import- 
ance of accurate making up should lie continuously im- 
pressed upon the student, and sucji information as it is 
possible to impart in print should Ijc freely and fully 
placed at his disposal. 

Convinced of this fact, and as concisely as the sub- 
ject permits, is here given a few general rules for the 
making of the coats, while detailed instruction pertaining 
to particular garments will be taken up in successive pa- 
pers. 

Closing of Shoulder Seams. 

Perhaps different systems require different treatments 
in the making up. However, the following rules must be 
observed in order to insure success with this system : 

Never under any circumstances should the forepart 
from the bottom of scve up be stretched or shrunk in 
any way whatever with an iron ; such as stretching the 
gorge and the shoulder seam near the shoulder point 
must not be done. 

If the shoulder seam is stretched it will advance the 
shoulder point ; consequently, it will not be where the 
cutter has intended it to be. If the gorge is stretched it 
will lengthen the strap or first over measure, and also 
hollow the gorge away from the neck. 

In sewing on the back shoulder seam to the forepart, 
the amount of extra length allowed to the backpart, ^ 
inch in normal, j/a inch for stooping, and about even for 
erects, should be fulled on just below the collar and 
sewed in. When pressing, open the seam, or in pressing 
off care should be taken to keep the shoulder forward. 
The fullness. will then throw the shoulder forward as if 
a hinge or joint were inserted just below the collar, and 
prevent the coat from sliding backwards over the shoulder 
heads. 

The canvas should be cut with a piece inserted in the 
shoulder to create a slight spring over the shoulder head ; 
no stretching or cutting of the canvas from the scye up 
over the shoulder must be done : only the haircloth is slit 
in front of the scye and a piece inserted in the shoulder, 
the same as in the canvas. 

If the shoulder seam has been stretched no amount of 
long collar can prevent the coat from appearing to fall 
off the shoulder and to pull away from the neck over the 
gorge, instead of the shoulder coming forward and fol- 



lowing the natural movement of the arm and shoulder 
without causing a break in the front canvas. 

Making the Collar. 
In cutting the collar, as has been explained under 
Collars, it may not be amiss to again call attention to a 
few points. When the collar is cut as explained in the 
text by raising 14 inch and lengthening i/^ inch beyond 
point 19, the collar around the break edge will always 
iiave the same length, no matter what the length of the 
roll is, which it should have to fit the same size of coat 
and neck. Collars cut in any other way will not have 
this important feature. 

Putting on Collar. 

Assuming that the under collar has been correctly cut, 
it will require much less stretching than many journey- 
men consider necessary. The leaf or fall edge should 
not be stretched at all, and the underside or stand should 
be stretched only enough to give it the same length as 
the fall piece. The collar will then give just the right 
amount of fullness to be put on for all lengths of roll. 
The fullness is started from about K' inch back of the 
shoulder seams to about iy2 inches in front of the 
shoulder seams. 

As a rule for length of rolls in front, rise % inch more 
at the end of the collar above point 19 for a roll to second 
button ; for a roll to third button, or long roll, raise % 
inch more at the end of the collar, gradually, to nothing 
at the break line. 

Putting in Sleeves. 

The pitching of the sleeves, or, in other words, the 
position of the fore and hind arm notches of the sleeve 
and coat, is of great importance, and should never be 
left to the discretion of the workman. In this system the 
forearm notch is located three-quarters of an inch above 
the bottom of the scye, the same as on the coat, and the 
hindarm notch at the top of the sideseam as cut. The 
backnotch on the coat is placed halfway of the depth of 
scye, as explained under the Coats. If such has been 
done, the notches must go together both in front and 
back, and the sleeves will always hang correctly, no mat- 
ter what the attitude of the customer, because all arms 
hang straight down, and by cutting the breast line on a 
floor level all the changes for attitude are done on the 
top construction line A-\', and therefore in no way inter- 
fere with the hang of the sleeve. 

The three foregoing rules should be observed and fol- 
lowed. In addition, it may be stated that no "bridle" is 
necessary to be put on, nor should the front edge be held 
in too much. In all other respects the coat requires no 
special instruction and can be given to any coat-maker. 



LAYOUT 



DIAGRAM 2 



DIAGRAM 1 



1. Suit lay : Cloth, 3^ yards. By reversing forepart 
of trousers, under sleeve and the Vest will lay to a 43 
breast size. 

2. Suit lay: Shows also a Coat and Vest lay. (See 
the dotted lines across.) 



LAYOUT 



§7 





DIAGRAM 3 



DIAGRAM 4 



3. Coat and trousers lay: Amount of cloth, 3 yards. 

4. Suit lay : For a 36 size, cloth required, 2% yards. 



§ 4 



VEST 



International Cutting Schools 

VESTS 



PART FOUR 



CopynKhlcd, 1913 



1. The measures for the vest are the same as for 
the coat ; deptli of scyc and length to waist ; the straj), 
over slioulder and blade ; breast and waist ; in addition 
to the opening and the full length. 




FIG. 10 

riace the end of tapeline on back of neck, bring the 
tape over the shoulder to the first button or the opening. 

Then from the neck point in a straight line over the 
front to the center of the length desired. (See Fig. 10.) 

Sometimes a measure is taken to the side of the vest 
over the hip; from the nape of neck in a straight line. 

The opening measures may be taken for D. B.'s and 
for dress vest, to get the exact opening desired. 

For other particulars see under measures for the coat 



VEST 




DIAGRAM 53 VEST NORMAL 



§ 4 



VEST 



Vest Normal 



Diagram 53 



3. The measures are taken under the Vest always. 
Breast 36 inches. Blade (with 1^4 inches for 

Waist 32 inches. seams added) 12^/2 in. 

Strap 12 inches. Depth of scye 9 inches. 

Over shoulder 17 inches. Natural waist 16^ inches. 
Opening 12 inches. Full length 25 inches. 

Height 5 feet 6 inches. 
Form and attitude, normal. Sizes, 33 to 42 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A or 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3'/^ inches (9>^). 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height and 3j/2 inches. 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one-fourth height, and j^ inch for length. 

7 C to D is 1/3 breast — on "3rds" — (6) seat line. 

8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back— 19 inches. ^ 

10 F is half between B and A for front shoulder height. 

1 1 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

12 C to G is ^ inch; draw line F to G and down to D. 

13 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

14 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

15 H to I is 2 inches, center of breast. 

16 B to K is blade (with 1^ inches for seams) (12J/2). 

17 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

18 L is half way between B and K. 

19 L to M is J/^ inch — width of back. 

20 Square up to O, and down to N. 

21 A to Q is 1/12 breast— on "12ths"— and 

22 Q to R is 1>^ inches; square up to S, 3^ inch. 

23 K to T is 1 inch ; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

24 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

25 V is located on lines from U and A. 

26 Draw lines from S to U and F to V. 

27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

28 Rise at X J^ inch and lower at point 1 the same. 

29 Y is 1/12 up from M on line O-M. 

30 From B up apply depth of scye measure and J/2 inch 

(9>^') to A in normal attitude will meet line A. 

31 The >4 inch is for fulness held in over the blade. 

32 Add ji inch above A to nothing at S ; no outlet. 



33 Shape the back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

34 Apply strap measure, and ^ inch A to R and K to V 

in normal attitude will meet line A-V, less ^ inch. 

35 Apply over shoulder measure and y^ inch B to W and 

K to Z ; when normal, meet line F-V. 

36 Z is 134 inches from line K. 

37 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

38 V to point 1 is ^ inch less than S to X. 

39 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

40 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding 34 '"■ over Z. 

41 B to 2 is 3/2 breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3 inches. 

42 This is normal blade and independent of the actual. 

43 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

44 4 to 5 is 3^ waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

45 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

46 2 to 44 is 1 inch ; square down to 3, '/• inch. 

47 G to P is 3^ waist and }i inch. 

48 4 to 16 is 1J4 inches. 

49 Draw straight lines from 3 to P and 3 to 16. 

50 For spring over hip draw line K through 16. 

51 From P down add ^ inch for spring. 

52 For small waist take out a fish on line N. 

53 Apply length and I34 inches, A to R and V to 7 

(26M). 

54 Apply opening and }i inch, A to R and V to J i'i^2y^). 

55 Draw lines from C to 7 and E to 17. 

56 V to 21 is 1 inch ; when no collar, }i inch. 

47 Draw line from 21 to first button and finish as repre- 
sented. 

58 The line D is a feature of this system, and when ob- 

tained as explained above is a reliable guide for 
the front length of the Vest. 

59 It agrees with all sizes and all heights. 

60 The dot and dash lines indicate 56>4 inches waist. 

61 Note how the system works for all sizes and through 

solid points. 

62 The depth of scye is on the height and width system 

also, and in many cases is more reliable than 
measures. 

63 The V-18-19 lines give normal or military height. 



VEST 



§ 4 



Dress Vest 



Diagram 54 



4. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Breast 36 inches. Blade (with 1^ inches for 

Waist 32 inches. seams added) IZyi in. 

Strap 12 inches. Depth of scye 9 inches. 

Over shoulder 17 inches. Natural waist 16^ inches. 
Opening 19 inches. Full length 25 inches. 

Height 5 feet 6 inches. 
Form and attitude, normal. Sizes, 33 to 42 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A or 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3^ inches (9^). 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height and Syi inches. 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 
A to C is one-fourth height, and }4 '"ch for length. 

7 C to D is 1/3 breast — on "3rds" — (6) seat line. 

8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

10 F is half between B and A for front shoulder height. 

11 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

12 C to G is }i inch; draw line F to G and down to D. 

13 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

14 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

15 H to I is 2 inches, center of breast. 

16 B to K is blade (with 1^ inches for seams) (12>^). 

17 Square up from K — front of armhole. 
i8 L is half way between B and K. 

19 L to M is i<^ inch— width of Back. 

20 Square up to O, and down to N. 

21 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths" — and 

22 Q to R is 1^ inches ; square up to S, ^ inch. 

23 K to T is 1 inch ; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

24 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

25 V is located on lines from U and A. 

26 Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. 

27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

28 Rise at X ^ inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

29 Y is 1/12 up from M on line O-M. 

30 From B up apply depth of scye measure and }i inch 

(9^) to A in normal attitude will meet line A. 



31 The j/i inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

32 Add ^ inch above A to nothing at S ; no outlet. 

33 Shape the Back as shown; draw line from B to W. 

34 Apply strap measure, and % inch A to R and K to V 

in normal attitude will meet line 4-V, less ^ inch. 

35 Apply over shoulder measure and }i inch B to W 

and K to Z, when normal, meet line F-V. 

36 Z is 1J4 inches from line K. 

37 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

38 V to point 1 is % inch less than S to X. 

39 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

40 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding j4 in. over Z. 

41 B to 2 is 3^2 breast on "halves"; 2 to K is 3 inches. 

42 This is normal blade and independent of the actual. 

43 Square from K through 4 to 17. 

44 4 to 5 is 3^ waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

45 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

46 2 to 44 is 1 inch ; square down to 3 ; ^ inch. 

47 G to P is J^ waist and % inch. 

48 4 to 16 is Iji inches. 

49 Draw straight lines from 3 to P, and 3 to 16. 

50 For spring over hip draw line K through 16. 

51 From P down add % inch for spring. 

52 Apply length and 1^4 inches, A to R and V to 7 

(26J4). 

53 Apply opening and }i inch, A to R and V to 5 (20) . 

54 Draw lines from C to 7 and E to 17. 

55 I to J is 3 inches always ; when made up will cover 

the dress shirt about 1 inch on each side. 

56 V to 21 is 1 inch; draw guide line through J. 

57 Shape from 21, rounding slightly to J. 

58 The opening is usually about a }A inch above waist. 

59 Shape bottom as shown, or otherwise. 

60 Add a yi inch to the right side for a stand. 

61 The collar is full 2 inches wide over largest part. 

62 The double-breasted is made by reducing a J^ inch 

from 5 and 7, which makes the center line. 

63 7 to 9 is ^ inch ; 5 to 12 is 2 inches. 

64 9 to 10 and 12 to 13 are each ^ inch. 



§4 



VEST 




VEST 



§4 




§ 4 



VEST 



Double-Breasted Vests 



Diagram 55 



5. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Breast 36 inches. Blade (with l}i inches for 

Waist 32 inches. seams added) 12^ in. 

Strap 12 inches. Depth of scye 9 inches. 

Over shoulder 17 inches. Natural waist 16^ inches. 
Opening 11>4 inches. Full length 25 inches. 

Height 5 feet 6 inches. 
Form and attitude, normal. Sizes, 33 to 42 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A or 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3>^ inches (9j/2). 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height and Syi inches. 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one-fourth height, and J4 inch for length. 

7 C to D is 1/3 breast — on "3rds" — (6) seat line. 

8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back — 19 inches. 

10 F is half between B and A for front shoulder height. 

1 1 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

12 C to G is ^ inch ; draw line F to G and down to D. 

13 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

14 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

15 H to I is 1^ inches, center of breast. 

16 B to K is blade (with 1^ inches for seams) (123^). 

17 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

18 L is half way between B and K. 

19 L to M is >4 inch — width of back. 

20 Square up to O, and down to N. 

21 A to Q is 1/12 breast— on "12ths"— and 

22 Q to R is Ij/^ inches; square up to S, yi inch. 

23 K to T is 1 inch; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

24 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

25 V is located on lines from U and A. 

26 Draw lines from S to U and F to V. 

27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

28 Rise at X >^ inch and lower at point 1 the same. 

29 Y is 1/12 up from M on line 0-M. 

30 From B up apply depth of scye measure and yi inch 

(9>4) to A in normal attitude will meet line A. 

31 The yi inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

32 Add 14 inch above A to nothing at S ; no outlet. 

33 Shape the back as shown; draw line from B to W. 



34 Apply strap measure, and ^ inch A to R and K to V 

in normal attitude will meet line 4-V, less ^ inch. 

35 Apply over shoulder measure, and ^ inch B to W and 

K to Z, when normal, meet line F-V. 

36 Z is lj4 inches from line K. 

27 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

38 V to point 1 is J4 inch less than S to X. 

39 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

40 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding J4 in- over Z. 

41 B to 2 is J/^ breast on "halves"; 2 to K is 3 inches. 

42 This is normal blade and independent of the actual. 

43 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

44 4 to 5 is half waist, less }/2 inch. 

45 Square down from 5 to 7. 

46 The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to 

obtain the front center of the waist and to check 
the blade measure. 

47 2 to 44 is 1 inch ; square down to 3, J^ inch. 

48 G to P is >4 waist and J4 of an inch. 

49 4 to 16 is 134 inches; draw a straight line from 

50 3 to P and 3 to 16. 

51 For correct spring over the hip, draw line from K 

through 16. 

52 From P down add % for spring. 

53 For small waist take out a fish on line N. 

54 Apply length and 1J4 inches, A to R and V to 7 

(26M). 

55 Apply opening and ji inch, A to R and V to J (12). 

56 Draw lines from C to 7 and E to 17. 

57 V to 21 is 34 inch. 

58 7 to 8 is 1>4 inches ; 7 to 9 is the same. 

59 5 to 11 is 2J4 inches; 5 to 12 is the same. 

60 9 to 10 is }i inch; 12 to 13 is the same. 

61 Draw a line from V through J to 13. 

62 For collar Vest take out a 34 F at J. 

63 Shape from 21 through 13 to bottom. 

64 This completes the collar Vest. 

No-Collar Vest 

6. For a No-Collar Vest add a % inch to 21 ; no V 

is taken out over the breast. 
For double breasts, when there is no seam in the front, 

it is best to take out a f^ at the pocket to hold in 

the bottom. 



VEST 



§4 



Vest, Frock Lapel 



Diagram 56 



7. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 

Breast 36 inches. Blade (with 1^ inches for 

Waist 22 inches. seams added) 12^ in. 

Strap 12 inches. Depth of scye 9 inches. 

Over shoulder 17 inches. Natural waist 16;^4 inches. 

Opening 11^ inches. Full length 25 inches. 

Height 5 feet 6 inches. 

Form and attitude, normal. Sizes, 33 to 42 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A or 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and Syi inches (9>^). 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height and Syi inches. 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one-fourth height, and ^ inch for length. 

7 C to D is 1/3 breast — on "3rds" — (6) seat line. 

8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back, 19 inches 

10 F is half between B and A, for front shoulder height. 

1 1 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

12 C to G is J4 '"ch ; draw line F to G and down to D. 

13 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

14 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

15 H to I is 1^ inches, center of breast. 

16 B to K is blade (with 1^4 inches for seams) (12>4). 

17 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

18 L is half way between B and K. 

19 L to M is 1/2 inch— width of back. 

20 Square up to O, and down to N. 

21 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths" — and 

22 Q to R is 1^ inches; square up to S, >4 inch. 

23 K to T is I inch ; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

24 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

25 V is located on lines from U and 4. 

26 Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. 

27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

28 Rise at X J/2 inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

29 Y is 1/12 up from M on line 0-M. 

30 From B up apply depth of scye measure and 5^ inch 

(9j/2) to A in normal attitude will meet line A. 

31 The 1/2 inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

32 Add J4 inch above A to nothing at S ; no outlet. 



33 Shape the back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

34 Apply strap measure, and j4 inch A to R and K to V 

in normal attitude will meet line 4-V, less ^ inch. 

35 Apply over shoulder measure and ^4 inch B to W and 

K to Z, when normal, meet line F-V. 

36 Z is 134 inches from line K. 

37 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

38 V to point 1 is % inch less than S to X. 

39 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

40 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding ^ in. over Z. 

41 B to 2 is 3^2 breast on "halves"; 2 to K is 3 inches. 

42 This is normal blade and independent of the actual. 

43 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

44 4 to 5 is half waist, less 3^2 inch. 

45 Square down from 5 to 7. 

46 The measure from B to 2, K, 4 and 5 is only used to 

obtain the front center of the waist and to check 
the blade measure. 
4~ 2 to 44 is 1 inch ; square down 3^ inch to 3. 

48 G to P is 3^ waist and ^ of an inch. 

49 4 to 16 is 134 inches; draw a straight line from 3 to 

P and 3 to 16. 

50 For correct spring over the hip, draw line from K 

through 16. 

51 From P down add 34 inch for spring. 

52 For small waist take out a fish at line N. 

53 Apply length and 134 inches, A to R and V to 7 

(2634). _ 

54 Apply opening and '4 inch, A to R and V to J 

(1234). 

55 Draw a line from C to 7 and E to 17. 

56 V to 18 is 1/12 breast, plus 3/2 inch. 

57 Square forward from 18 by K. 

58 18 to 19 is 34 breast, plus 34 inch. 

59 Draw a line from 2 through 19 to 20. 

60 19 to 20 is 1%. 

61 7 to 8 is 134 inches; 7 to 9 is the same. 

62 5 to 11 is 234 inches ; 5 to 12 is the same. 

63 9 to 10 is }i inch; 12 to 13 is the same. 

64 The collar is drafted like a Coat collar, only 1-inch 

stand; the leaf is IJ^ inches. 

65 The turn-over is I34 inches. 



VEST 




10 



VEST 



§4 




§ 4 



VEST 



11 



Corpulent Vest 



Diagram 57 



8. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Breast 52 inches. Blade (with 1>4 inches for 

Waist 561^ inches. seams added) 16i^ in. 

Strap ISyi inches. Depth of scye 10>4 inche 

Over shoulder 22 inches. Natural waist 17^ inches. 
Opening 16 inches. Full length 31 inches. 

Height 5 ft. 10 inches. 

Form and attitude, corpulent. Sizes, 42 to 52 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breast on "3rds" and 3/2 inches {12%). 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and 3>4 inches. 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional, and inlucdes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one-fourth height, and % inch for length. 

7 C to D is 1/3 breast, on "3rds" (8^) seat hue. 

8 Added to the normal waist gives correct length. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back (20^). 

10 F is half between B and 4, for front shoulder height. 

1 1 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

12 C to G is ^ inch, draw line F to G and down to D. 

13 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

14 B to H is half the full breast measure (26). 

15 H to I is 2 inches, center of breast. 

16 B to K is blade (with l}i inches for seam) (16i/^). 

17 Square up from B — front of armhole. 

18 L is half way between B and K. 

19 L to M is 1/2 inch— width of Back. 

20 Square up to O. 

21 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths," and 

22 Q to R is 13/ inches; square up to S, J^ inch. 

23 Advance from K, 1/16 inch each size above 4 inches 

less than breast; to straighten the front run, take 
it out under the arm as shown by the shaded part. 

24 K to T is 1 inch ; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

25 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

26 V is located on lines from U and 4. 

27 Draw lines from upper small S to U, and F to V. 

28 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

29 Rise at X J/2 inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 



30 Y is ^ incii from the 0-N line, and 1/12 up from M. 

31 From B up apply depth of scye measure and yi inch 

(11) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 

32 The yi inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

33 Obtain point S from half s-s and shape 5, S to X. 

34 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

35 Apply strap measure, and }i inch A to R and K to V 

(16>^) in normal attitude will meet line A-V. 

36 Add j4 inch above A to nothing at S ; no outlet. 

37 Apply over shoulder measure and ^4 inch B to W and 

K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V {22y4). 

38 Z is 154 inches from line K. 

39 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

40 V to point 1 is % inch less than S to X 

41 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

42 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding }4 in. over Z. 

43 B to 2 is i/< breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3 inches. 

44 This is normal blade and independent of the actual. 

45 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

46 4 to 5 is J/2 waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

47 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5, is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

48 2 to 44 is 1 inch ; square down to 3 ; a ^ inch. 

49 From G go out 1/16 inch for every size above 4 inches 

less than breast (3/2). 

50 G to P is 3/2 waist and ^4 inch. 

51 4 to 16 is 134 inches. 

52 Draw straight lines from 3 to P and 3 to 16. 

53 For spring over hip draw line K through 16. 

54 From P down add a 34 inch for spring. 

55 Advance at I the amount from K (shaded part). 

56 Draw a line from Z to 7 and E to 17. 

57 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

58 18 to 19 is 34 breast; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 

59 Apply length and 1>4 inches, A to R and V to 7 

(32>4). 

60 Apply opening and ^ inch, A to R and V to J (16j4)- 

61 V to 21 is I inch ; when no collar J4 inch. 

62 Draw line from 21 to first button and finish as rep. 

63 Take out a F in the pocket of 1/16 for extra sizes. 



12 



VEST 



§4 



Clerical Vest 



Diagram 58 



9. The measures are taken over the Vest always. 
Breast 36 inches. Blade (with 1J4 inches for 

Waist 32 inches. seams added) IZ^^ in. 

Strap 12 inches. Depth of scye 9 inches. 

Over shoulder 17 inches. Natural waist 16)4 inches. 
Height 5 feet 6 inches. Full length 25 inches. 

Form and attitude, normal. Sizes, 33 to 42 breasts. 

To Draft. 

1 Square both ways from A or 4. 

2 4 to B is 1/3 breasts on "3rds" and Syi inches (9^). 

3 B to 3 is 1/3 breast of height, and 3^ inches. 

4 A is half way between 3 and 4. 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one-fourth height, and J4 "ich for length. 

7 C to D is 1/3 breast, on "3rds" (6) seat line. 

8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

10 F is half between B and A, for front shoulder height. 

1 1 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3 and 4. 

12 C to G is -; I inch, draw line F to G and down to D. 

13 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

14 B to H is half the full breast measure (18). 

15 H to I is 2 inches, center of breast. 

16 B to K is blade (with 1% inches for seams) (IZyi). 

17 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

18 L is half way between B and K. 

19 L to M is i^ inch— width of Back. 

20 Square up to O, and down to N. 

21 A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "12ths," and 

22 Q to R is lJ/2 inches; square up to S, ^ inch. 

23 K to T is 1 inch ; T to U is 1/12 breast. 

24 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

25 V is located on lines from U and A. 

26 Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. 

27 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

28 Rise at X J^ inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 



29 Y is >4 inch from the O-N line, and 1/12 up from M. 

30 From B up apply depth of scye measure and }i inch 

{9y2) to A, in normal attitude will meet line A. 

31 The j/S inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

32 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

33 Apply strap measure, and % inch A to R and K to V 

in normal attitude will meet line A-V less J4 inch. 

34 Apply over shoulder measure and {}i inch) B to W 

and K to Z; when normal, meet line F-V. 

35 Z is 134 inches from line K. 

36 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

37 V to point 1 is ^4 inch less than S to X. 

38 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

39 Shape arm-scye and shoulder rounding ^ in. over Z. 

40 B to 2 is J4 breast on "halves"; 2 to K is 3 inches. 

41 This is normal blade and independent of the actual. 

42 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

43 4 to 5 is J4 waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

44 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5, is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of the waist and to check the blade measure, v, 

45 2 to 44 is 1 inch ; square down to 3; yi inch. 

46 G to P 3^ waist and % inch; 4 to 16 is lj4 inches. 

47 Draw straight lines from 3 to P, and 3 to 16. 

48 For spring over hip draw line K through 16. 

49 From P down add }i inch for spring. 

50 Apply length and lj4 inches, A to R and V to 7 

(26K). 

51 Draw lines from C to 7 and E to 17. 

52 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

53 18 to 19 is 34 breast less % inch. 

54 Shape the gorge and front; also bottom. 

55 Leave a button stand in front }i inch wide. 

56 All clerical and military collars should be cut as in 

the diagram on military collar. 

57 Cut vest collar yi inch larger than linen collar. 



VEST 



13 




14 



VEST 



§4 




1 10. Draft a Vest or use a model forepart. 

2 21 to V is ■).) inch; mark all around the "left" fore- 

part from V, and at breast and waist lines. 

3 I to J is a ^ inch ; 5 to 6 is the same. 

4 Draw a straight line through J and 6 to 7. 

5 Reverse the forepart and lap it a J4 '"ch at J and 6. 

6 Mark all around the "right" forepart and remove. 

7 Add a seam in the V at 19 and breast. 

8 V to 26 is 134 inches. 

9 From side seam to 17 is ^ inch. 

10 Shape from 26 to 17, touching front of scye at 3. 



\\ A V Yz inch is taken out on each side, the fill in at 7. 
12 Shape bottom as shown on diagram. 
13. 11. The Button Piece, or under side. — Mark around 
the top and back of "right" forepart. 

14 26 to 20 is 2 inches; 17 to 18 is 1% inches. Shape as 

represented. 

15 12. The Collar.— The collar has an opening of 2 

inches in front, when finished, and is buttoned 
about 1 inch back of point V on the right side. 

16 When made with a seam in the center, no V's are 

taken out. Finish as represented. 



The 

International Gutting School's 

System of Cutting 



By L. GIBSON 

New York — Chicago 



First Edition, 1909, One Thousand Copies Second Edition, 1911, One Thousand Copies 

Third Edition, 1913, One Thousand Copies 



TROUSERS 

(PART FIVE) 



Entered according to Act of Congress (Act of March 4, 1909), in the year 1913 
by L. Gibson, in the office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C. 

ALL FOREIGN RIGHTS RESERVED 



(Printed ia the United Stales) 



TROUSERS 



§5 



Trousers 



1. 'Jhe question of masculine nether garments is of 
far greater importance, not merely from a sociological, 
but from a political point of view, than most people 
would be willing to believe. 

Indeed, the fashion in this respect constitutes an in- 
teresting corollary in the history of national enlighten- 
ment, progress and development. 

Thus the absence of clothing for the nether limbs 
denotes the barbarism of the ages which preceded the 
crusades. The breeches made of chain armor and steel 
plate (uncomfortable they must have been) followed 
next, and are associated in our minds with feudalism, 
tournaments and the medieval age. 

The hose and trunks of the sixteenth and seventeenth 
centuries demonstrated that the fine arts, the sciences, 
and, in one word, the elegancies of the mind had sup- 
planted might and rule by the superiority of brute force. 

The knee breeches and silk stockings of the eighteenth 
century may be looked upon as in keeping with an age of 
courtliness and dignity. The trousers, alas, are charac- 
teristic of a period when men have no longer time nor 
inclination to devote to the cultivation of that "politesse 
du coeur" which contributes so much to sweeten human 
intercourse. 

There is but one court in Europe, namely, that of 
St. James, where one may see men who wear neither 
trousers nor breeches, but who, "sans culottes" in the 
truest sense, content themselves with kilts, namely, the 
Scottish chieftains and the officers of the various highland 
regiments. 

The trousers or pantaloons came in fashion in the year 
1801, mainly as the result of drink. 

Old-world royalty and its blue-blooded associates in 
those days ate, and especially drank, heavily, and were 
consequently afflicted with gout and other maladies of a 
character to swell the legs. 

Knee breeches and stockings, so dear, not only to the 
early presidents of the United States and to the signers 
of the Declaration of Independence, but likewise to the 
old Puritan element of America, were scarcely suitable 
to swollen limbs, even if they belonged to the anointed ; 
and the result was that George IV, as prince regent, his 
brothers, the Dukes of York, Clarence, Cumberland and 
Sussex ; the French princes, who afterwards reigned as 
Louis XVIII, Charles X, and Louis Phillipe, also King 
Fredeirck William III of Prussia, and many other 
equally illustrious personages, adopted the modern form 
of pantaloons, which was at the time a source of no end 
of ridicule and entertainment to caricaturists. 

It was not until the fourth decade of the nineteenth 
century, when heavy drinking by the classes went out of 
fashion, that an endeavor was made to revive the knee 
breeches as articles of masculine attire. 



The custom of wearing trousers, however, had mean- 
while become so universal that it was found impossible to 
do away with them, save by the enactment of sumptuary 
laws, such as Peter the Great was wont to enforce in 
Russia, but which would not have been tolerated in any 
country farther west. 

People, forgetful of the royal origin of trousers, in- 
sisted that they were a symbol of equality and democracy, 
and that they had a leveling tendency. 

They declared that the trousers constituted a per- 
petual and most efifectual rebuke to the man who would 
like to raise himself above his fellows by reason of shape. 

Trouser Cutting 

2. The art of trouser cutting is very often under- 
estimated. The fact remains that in the opinion of most 
experienced and practical cutters no garment that the 
tailor is called upon to produce is so perplexing and truly 
difficult as a simple pair of trousers. 

3. The difficulty in trouser cutting is that of provid- 
ing for the different positions assumed by the wearer in 
standing, sitting and walking. 

That it is possible, and quite easy, to cut a pair of 
trousers that will fit in either one of the above mentioned 
positions is true ; but to cut a pair of trousers to fit equally 
as well in all three positions is of course impossible ; hence 
the difficulty for the cutter to know how much he must 
allot for each when cutting one pair to fit all three posi- 
tions, which ordinary trousers must do. 

Perhaps no trousers are in all positions perfect, but 
it is almost unnecessary to add that some are greatly 
superior to the majority, while just a few in their adapt- 
able fitting qualities and general style or "hang" are 
worthy of the trade and a credit to those constituting it. 

4. Much confusion and valuable time has been lost 
in accepting old theories as absolute facts and trying to 
evolve new systems on the foundations of the old ones, 
or to accept the theories of others that no improvement 
could possibly be made. 

Before entering into further explanations it will be 
best to make a diagram, then the different points can be 
more readily taken up. We will therefore proceed with 
the 

Measurements of Trousers 

5. The method of measuring used is the result of 
long experience, and as this is for the guidance of students 
it is very minutely described. In the first place, a cutter 
should have confidence in himself, as the show of ner- 
vousness or lack of method will create an unfavorable 
impression on the customer. 

A lack of method to proceed is usually the cause of 
the confusion, hence a cutter should follow the sugges- 
tions and the rotations as explained, which will result in 



§ 5 



TROUSERS 



his becoming methodical and expert and free from all 
confusion. While measuring, no stops should be made, 
nor any familiarity displayed toward the customer. 

6. Measuring Trousers. — When ready to take the 
measures for the trousers, have someone to put down the 
measures ; otherwise have paper and pencil ready and do 
it yourself. A loose sheet of paper should be used, so that 
notes for the cutter can be put down, and afterwards 
transcribe it in the book. A footstool should be used and 
placed before the customer with an invitation to "Please 
step up on this footstool." Always stand on the right- 
hand side of the customer and take all the lengths and 
leg measures on the right leg. 

7. The First Measure. — The outside length is taken 
from point D, which should be the top of the hip bone 
always (not from top of trousers), to point B, the sole of 
the shoe, near the front of the heel (see Fig. 1). If the 
customer should be very fleshy, and it is hard for you to 
locate the top of the hip bone, have the customer locate 
it for you. 

8. The Scond Measure is the inside length and 
is taken from close up in the fork or crotch point C to 
E, the sole of the shoe, near the front of the heel. 

When taking this measure, the trousers should be 
pulled up close in front — not on the sides — by taking 
hold of the top of the fly. Take the end of the tape 
between the index and second finger of the left hand 
and place it snug up in the center of the fork or crotch, 
from the front; with the right hand measure the length 
to the sole. If for any reason you are in 'doubt of the 
result, take it the second time, and if too much at vari- 
ance, even a third time; the two nearest of the three 
must be the correct ones. Sometimes a measuring devise 
is used and, if not too sharp, is a help. 

Beginners sometimes take the leg length too short. 
To guard against this serious defect, measure from the 
fork point C down to the ground and deduct 1 inch from 
the quantity obtained. Thus : Ground length, 33 ; deduct 
1 inch, leaves 32, which gives the length of the trouser 
leg. 

It is important to have the length measure correct, as 
it will make the trousers hang smoothly and possibly 
save an alteration. 

Many customers are averse to having them changed 
after they are made, being under the impression that it 
spoils the fit. 

9. The Third Measure is the waist. Standing in 
front of the customer, raise the vest in front and with 
the tape in the right hand follow the waistband around 
to the back, meeting it with the left hand ; carry the tape 
to the front, and with the thumb of the left hand resting 
on the first inch, the thumb outward, carry the tape past 
with the right hand in a medium close measure, taking 
care that it is up above the hip bone, but on the trousers. 
(See Fig. 1, point D.) Call out the figures or mark 
it down. 



10. The Fourth Measure. — Stout or corpulent is 
taken over the corpulent part, or the stomach, about 4 
inches down from the waistband. This measure is used 
only when stout. 

11. The Fifth Measure. — Scat or hip is taken over 
the largest part of the seat opposite X. 

Before taking this measure, place both your hands, 
one on each side, on the hips of the customer and press 
gently, requesting the customer to "Please put your heels 
and toes together." 




Fig. 1 

This is a part which should never be overlooked, as 
otherwise the measure will be too loose. Take this 
measure in the same manner as described in the waist 
measure. 

While holding both ends of the tape in front with 
the right hand, with the left hand adjust the tape behind 
over the largest part of the seat; push up the contents 
of the hip pockets. 

This measure should be taken, like all others, a 
medium close, and on the level with the floor. Call out 
the measure. 

While the customer is standing in the closed position, 
heels and toes together and erect, take hold of the 
trousers with both hands on the sides, opposite the knees, 
and pull outward to see if the customer is bowlegged. 
If so, the amount can easily be determined by the eye 
as 1 inch, 1>^ or 2 inches or more — the opening between 
the knees. 

Call out or mark down the amount, but only in inches 
or as "lyi inches straight." Do not call out bowleg. 

Remember, the eye must take it in quickly before the 
customer spreads his legs; if he does, it must be gone 



TROUSERS 



§ 5 



over again if there is the least tendency to bow leg. 
When this is done, tell the customer, "Now you may 
stand as you please." 

12. The Sixth Measure is the thigh. The thigh is 
taken right below the trunk or body on the right leg, 
close up to the fork or crotch, and is taken close or 
actual measure of the thigh (marked O, Fig. 1). 

It is used only in extremely large or extremely small 
thighs. It can also be used to gain an idea how large a 
peg is desired by measuring the peg or amount of width 
opposite thigh. 

13. The Seventh Measure is the knee, taken 
around the knee, the width desired by the customer, or 
the style. 

Always get the customer's idea about the knee and 
bottom measures — whether he desires a close, medium or 
loose width — and follow as near style as possible. 

14. The Eighth Measure is the bottom, taken over 
the shoe from just above the sole on the heel to in front, 
the tape meeting in front over the instep the width de- 
<nci\. or style. 

15. Breeches are measured for the same as trousers 
(including the length of leg seam). 

In addition it is necessary to take the length to knee, 
to small knee and to calf, as also the size of the leg 
over the draivers, at the knee — the small knee — and the 
calf. 

16. This completes the measurements of the 
trousers and you announce to the customer : ''That is 
all ; thank you." 

In studying the above measurements, the first point 
to notice is the order in which the various measures are 
obtained; the second, that all length measures, side and 
leg seams, are entered first, and all width measures, 
waist, seat, knee and bottom, in the order named. 

Great care should be taken to secure accurate meas- 
urements, as the result — good, bad and indifferent — is 
greatly dependent on them. 

While taking the measures the eye should have ob- 
served any peculiarities about the customer regarding the 
trousers, such as right dress; if so, call out or mark 
"R. D." 

Sometimes very wide over the hip, curving consider- 
ably opposite the hip joint, attention will be drawn to it 
by the great difference between the waist and seat meas- 
ure — as much as 8 inches difference — while the normal 
should be about 4 inches and, as stoutness increases, less. 

Such will be designated "curved hips." A note should 
be made of it on the measure blank. 

The hips may be "narrow," usually on stout or fat 
men, indicated by small seat measure compared to the 
waist and corpulent measures. 

It may be a small seat or what is commonly called 
"Flat" seat, which is generally accompanied by "Promi- 
nent Dress," where the customer carries himself for- 
ward at that particular point. 



The dress also varies much either higher or lower. 
This should be distinguished from "full" or "large dress." 

Sometimes the hip bone comes straight up and very 
wide at point A. Note should be made of these di- 
vergencies and taken care of in drafting. 

Find out the style of pockets whether side or top, 
and how many hip pockets. 

If peg top is wanted, in what degree, as ^ peg or 
full peg, etc. Cuffs, belt loops, or flaps. Sometimes 
a person wishes a very low "Rise" or height of waist, 
if so, mark down low waist or Rise; but the outside 
length must be taken from the top of the hip bone 
always. 

A large person may call for a "High Waist" or Rise. 
Such must be written down, but the measures taken as 
usual from the hip bone. Toe-out or slew-footed should 
also be noted. 

17. Construction Lines. — In the matter of construc- 
tion lines different systems use different lines as con- 
struction lines. It is obvious that every system must 
have some fixed points to go out from. There has been 
much diff'erence of opinion as to which would be the 
best and most appropriate, the side, or center, or front 
line. As most practical men will admit that they may be 
placed at the sides or the center of the draft with equally 
good results, provided that the working of the system 
be arranged to produce an outline of the garment agree- 
ing with that of the figure and in harmony with the 
form of the individual for which it is cut. 

18. Accuracy and Simplicity. — These are the two 
distinctive feature of this system. Accuracy in that it 
can be used with equal success on tall and slim and short 
and stouts ; and relied on to give the correct amount in 
every instance. 

Simplicity in that it can be applied with a common 
tailor's square, and all complicated calculations and 
rules are reduced to simple working methods, easy to use 
and still conforming to all anatomical and scientific 
measurements and calculations. 

It was our intention to cite proof in the support of 
our statements from the numerous investigators. But 
as this system was worked out without consulting any 
of these authorities it has since been compared with them 
and it stands the test of any of them and we think far 
surpasses all of them. 

Therefore, it would only be a waste of space and 
the reader's time to bring them out. 

19. The majority of cutters of experience will cer- 
tainly agree that the center line system has by far the 
most followers, provided, how&wtr, that this center line 
is a center Hue and placed in the center. Lots of systems 
have what they term a center line but in fact is not a 
center line. 

The definition of a center line must be that it is 
in the center. It is naturally inferred that if a line is 
drawn down the center of the forepart it should be placed 



§ 5 



TROUSERS 



where the center of the leg, or, as at present, where the 
center crease would be. 

Equally it would be expected that the center line 
of the Back part would be where the crease is. 

If such be the case, it can be called a center line 
system. This, however, implies also that the Back seam 
or seat seam should be in the middle or center of the 
Back. There is where it will be when finished. 'There- 
fore, there is where it should be when cutting it; if it 
is not there, it will get there just the same when finished ; 
then is when the trouble commences. 

20. The Center Line, therefore, has many ad- 
vantages over side or front line systems. It is then only 
a matter of distributing the right quantity on each 
side of the center line, and in doing so, the best results 
will be obtained by following nature's divisions. 

That rule has been adopted in this system. 

This brings us to the consideration of the "Rise" or 
height of waist. 

The quantity given, 1/3 seat and 3y2 inches, will be 
found to correspond with all scientific measurements. 

Man is the most perfect mechanism and he certainly 
grows by proportion as understood by the tailors; hence, 
it is only a question of finding the divisions by which 
he increases or decreases in the different parts. 

Some systems use j/^ seat and a fraction for the 
heights. It has been found that 1/3 and Z'/z inches is 
the correct one. 

21. The Rise. — It is well known that an actual 
measure of the "Rise" cannot always be used, as some 
persons differ in the height of the waist. True, the 
actual measure will give the actual height and in some 
cases must be followed in preference to the proportional 
Jieights; but it also must be admitted that it is some- 
times difficult to get a correct height by measure ; further, 
it has been proven that this part of the human body 
changes the least in length or height. 

The seat line will be found to correspont with 
scientific measurements; the fork also will be found to 
agree with this method. 

In fact every measure and every division and pro- 
portion used in this system, be it trousers, coat, or vest, 
are based on common sense and experience, as well as 
on scientific or basic principles. 

The "Rise" as a rule is governed by the wearer and 
does not matter much as long as suspenders are worn; 
but when a belt is substituted, the "Rise" must in all 
cases come over the hip bone. 

22. Seat Angle. — The correct location of the seat 
line from points J to T and the height above the fore- 
part is of great importance, as the degree of angle 
given not only provides room for the insertion of the 
trunk of the body, but also forms the degree of length 
in the back when standing to provide for the changed 
positions assumed when sitting and walking. 

If the seat line is what is termed too straight, that is 



drawn nearer to point K; providing points LI and J are 
retained in the position as on normal trousers ; the body 
room, or what is termed the diameter of the trousers, is 
decreased. They will be too close from the fork point 
of underside upwards to the round of the seat, and the 
fork will appear — as it actually is — too tight. 

Some systems advocate increasing the fork to counter- 
balance it; but that does not give the same ease and fit. 
Trousers cut that way will hang smooth when stand- 
ing perfectly straight, but as soon as any movements 
take place the defect is shown at once. 

If on the other hand the seat line is excessively 
crooked or brought nearer to the side seam from the 
center line, the seat room (or diameter) will be excessive 
and the trousers when on will appear full about the fork, 
while on the back of the thighs and the top of the leg 
seams a quantity of surplus material will be formed, 
most unsightly in appearance and unnecessary for the 
provision of ease in either sitting or walking. 

As has previously been stated that the height above 
the forepart is necessary at the back of the seat, to pro- 
vide length of the seat when sitting, it may be stated that 
the extent of the length may by way of experiment be 
measured, for if a measure be taken from the fork 
point of the under side upwards to the waistband when 
the figure is standing, it will be found about 3 inches less 
than the measure between the same points when the 
figure is seated. 

' The division used in this system as applied to normals 
and to corpulents has been found to work satisfactory in 
all sizes. 

In other words, when the person sits down, the height 
in back should be on a horizontal line with the rise in 
front, and no excessive draw from the knees up, and 
with no excessive surplus of cloth in the lap, and suffi- 
cient ease over the seat. 

23. Size of the Fork.— The size of the fork (as 
the effect of the change of the seat angle just mentioned 
may explain) is not, as many cutters imagine, the quantity 
measured between the points J and I and J and U. 

This quantity in systems of cutting is merely a matter 
of convenience dependent upon the amount of the seat 
angle or slope and the position of the bottom of the 
leg seams. 

The system here given would fit equally as well the 
forepart advanced until point I and Q were even with 
point U and V, and the same amount of slope maintained 
on the seat line. 

The actual size of the fork is the distance across 
from the front of the forepart to the back or seat seam 
opposite the seat line B-2; when the forepart and back 
are laid in position, with the fork line running horizontal- 
ly and points I and U touching. This accounts for the 
fact that a comparatively crooked seat admits of a small 
fork, and a straight seat of a larger fork than the 
average. 



TRurSERS 



24. Openness and Closeness of Legs. — The correct 
"hang" of the legs of the trousers at leg and side seams 
is dependent principally upon what is termed the open- 
ness of legs. 

A trouser correctly cut in this respect will, if held up 
by the side seams (as trousers are usually tested), stand 
apart at the bottoms the same amount as the legs are 
divided when the figure is standing in the ordinary po- 
sition. 

If the trousers have been cut too open, that is, with a 
smaller amount than is necessary from N to Q and out- 
wards to \', they will, when held up as previously de- 
scribed, stand apart at the bottom more than the na- 
tural separation of the legs, and when on will be forced 
inwards and npzvards by the legs, with the result that 
bulging and folds will appear at the top of the leg seams, 
while at the bottom the leg seam will appear short, as 
though the measure taken was insufficient. 

If the trousers have been cut too close, that is, with 
aji excess of material on both top and under sides from 
the points Q and V upwards, the defects will be the 
opposite of those just described. 

The legs of the trousers will touch from fork to 
bottom when the trousers are held up by the side seams, 
and when on, will press inwards upon the outside of the 
legs, which will force the trousers outwards and up- 
wards, producing surplus length in diagonal folds at 
the side .seams. 

The consideration of these facts will enable the stu- 
lent to realize why riding trousers — in which the legs 
are carried open or apart — require a more open style 
of cut than those intended for gentlemen who insist upon 
a clean fit at fork and leg seams when the feet are kept 
close together at the bottom. 



Points in Good Fitting Trousers 

25. Standing.- — There should be no folds between 
the legs from the feet upwards to the fork. 

The side seams should hang fair from the hips with- 
out bulge or break. 

The horizontal fold below the seat should not be 
excessive nor fall downwards to the fork. 

There should be no strain on the back buttons, and 
the seat line should touch the hollow of the waist. 

No pressure should be felt at the fork, bringing the 
dress into undue prominence, and channeling at the seat 
seam. 

There should be no pressure at the top fly buttons, or 
fold between the front suspender buttons. 

26. Sitting. — There should be no undue strain 
upon the ball, or round of the seat, to the knees. 

The bottoms should not work upwards from the 
shoes more than about one inch. 

The length of seat should not work downward, caus- 
ing a strain upon the back buttons. 

The top of the trousers in front should not uncom- 
fortably press upon the stomach. 

The amount of material in the lap, and under the 
knee should not be excessive. 

27. Walking.- — The trousers should not clini; to 
the knee, and strain towards the fork. 

They should not ride upwards from the heel. 

There should be no "flopping" at the bottom of the 
legs seams. 

Assuming that the trousers have been properly made 
the above is the result of : 

First — The proper adjustment of the seat angle. 

Second — The correct size and form of fork. 

Third — The required slope or "Openness" of legs. 

Fourth — The accurate height of "Rise." 



§ 5 



TROUSERS 



Cutting the Cloth 

56 When cutting the cloth leave outlets down the inside 

leg seam and seat seam of the under sides, also 
a turn-up, of from 2 to 3 inches, at the bottom 
of both top and under sides. 

57 Make notches at the bottom, knee and seat lines of 

both top and under sides, to prevent twisting in 
the making up. 

58 Previous to cutting always see that the nap or pile 

of the clolii (if any) is running downward. 

59 32. Checked Material.— The pattern should be laid 

on the cloth so that the lines match at side seam 
at least; inside seam should also match. 

To Draft 

Always read the description through before com- 
mencing to draft it. 

The measures needed for a pair of trousers are as 
follows: (For measuring see measures for trousers). 

First measure is "Outside length." 

Second measure is "Inside length." 

Third measure is "The Waist." 

Fourth measure is "The Corpulency." 

Fifth measure is "The Seat" or Hip. 

Sixth measure is "The Thigh." 

Seventh measure is "The Knee." 

Eight measure is "The Bottom." 

When no corpulency, the fourth measure can be left 
out. 

In studying these measurements the first points to 
notice is the order in which they are obtained. 

28. Seat. — The trousers are always drafted by the 
seat measure. 

The divisions used are units of the seat measure. 
Only half of the trousers are drafted because the cloth 
is always cut on the double. For example, seat, 40 inches, 
would therefore be 20, which will be used on all divi- 
sions in the draft. Mark all letters on the draft as you 
proceed. 



TROUSERS 



§5 



Trousers Normal 

Diagrams 60 and 61 



Outside length 43^4 inches. Thigh (actual) 21 inches. 

Inside length 32>^ inches. Knee 20 inches. 

Waist 36 inches. Bottom 16 inches. 
Seat or hip 40 inches. 

To Dkajft. The Forepart. 

1 A to B is 1/3 seat on "3rds" and 

2 B to C is 3>^ inches (10>4). 

3 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

4 From C to A is the actual "Rise" as measured. 

5 C to E is the inside length, and ^ inch for a seam. 

6 D is half way oetween E and C, and 2 inches up. 

7 Square out from A, B, C, D and E. 

8 C to H is >^ seat — on "halves." 

9 H to I is >^ seat — on "8ths." 

10 Go out y^ inch from I, and in ]^ inch from I, making 

^ inch; this is for the dress side. 

1 1 Square up from H, locating 2 on line B. 

12 H to J is Yz inch (for 2 seams), square up to K. 

13 Draw a guide line from K to 11 for run of dress. 

14 L is half way between C and I. 

15 Go in yi inch for every size less than 40 seat, and out 

yi inch for every size more; from L. 

16 Square up and down from L, locating O, M and N. 

17 N to P is ^ bottom less j^ inch; N to Q is the same. 

18 Draw a straight line from I to Q, locating R. 

19 M to G is ^ knee on "4ths" ; M to R is the same. 

20 Draw lines C. G. P and I to R. 

21 Normal waist is 4 inches less than seat. 

22 A to S is 1^ inches. This is normal. 

23 H-to the curve of front fork is 1/12 seat by A. 

24 Shape the fork K to I outer corner; and 

25 Dress side from K to J^ inch above I ; inner corner. 

26 The largest dress hollow (^ inch) is opposite H. 

27 The seams from I should be straight 7y> inches down. 

28 For "Prominent dress," allow J4 inch more on fork 

curve, as shown by the broken lines. 

29 Shape the side seam from S ; the broken line shows a 

high iiip bone. 

30 Trace out the "Dress" and center line. 

This completes the Forepart. Cut out the pattern. 

The Backpart. 

31 The white part represents the forepart. 

32 Extend lines O, B, L, M and N. 

33 Add J4 inch to length of Backpart from N. 

34 O to T is 1/6 seat — on "6ths." 

35 Draw a straight line from T to J. 

36 From the forepart fork to U is 1/16 seat. 



S7 Measure seat and 1^ inches 2 to B, and 11 to F. 

38 R to X is 3/2 inch for seams ; G to Y is the same. 

39 P to V is ^2 inch more than 3^ bottom. 

40 Q to W is the same; draw lines Y to W and X to V. 

41 Draw a line from Y through F to Z. 

42 Y to Z is the length from S to G, or sweep. 

43 Draw a line from Z to T. 

44 Z to 10 is 34 seat; draw a line to L. 

45 Apply waist measure and 2^ inches from K to S 

and T to Z ; take out a >2 inch V at 10. 

46 The V extend down 1/6 of seat measure. 

47 J to the curve of back fork is 1/24 seat by A. 

48 U is J4 inch below line C-I. 

49 Shape seat seam through corner of forepart to U. 

50 Shape outside and inside seams and mark notches. 

51 In no case should A to S exceed 1;)4 inches. 

52 Hollow outside seam slightly from F to T. 

53 Notch at knee and seat or fork line {}i inch below on 

backpart). 

54 The notch for the fly is 1 inch from the point of 

forepart; if placed too high up it causes a draw 
and disfigures the fly. 
53 30. Calves. — If calf is needed place it on the out- 
side seam, nothing on the inside, and 1/3 the 
distance down from the knee to bottom. 

Trousers —Wide Hips 

Diagram 63 

This diagram represents the wide hip and the small 
or flat seat ; such persons measure more around the seat 
than they really are, proportional from front to rear. 

If the trousers are cut regular they will be too deep 
from front to rear, and too narrow from side to side. 

This also accounts for why some cutters get from 
7 to 9 inches difference in the waist and seat measure. 

The trousers are drafted 1 size less in the seat divi- 
sion from C to I and U; the difference is added to the 
sides opposite C, in this way retaining the full width as 
originally measured. 

L is half way between C and I. 

On all sizes below 40 go in from L J^ inch for every 
size. 

Point L must be retained in the same position or half 
way between C and I ; because point T depends on L. 

For flat seat draw line from T to J, finish as ordinary 
trousers. 



§ 5 



TROUSERS 



T)!^-^ 



K 


■ 
/ 




V 1 




>2 


-^ ...^ 


1r 


'l c 
M gJ oi 




P. , 


z 

h.- .. . _, 




DIAGRAM 60 DIAGRAM 61 

TROUSERS NORMAL 



■10 



TROUSERS 



§5 





DIAGRAM 62 
BOW- LEG TROUSERS 



DIAGRAM 63 
WIDE HIPS, SMALL SEAT 



§ 5 



TROUSERS 



Trousers — Bow-Leg 



Diagram 62 



Outside length 42^ inches. Seat or hip 40 inches. 

Inside length 32/2 inches. Thigh (actualj 21 inches. 

Waist 36 inches. Knee 21 inches. 

Bowleg 2 inches Bottom 16 inches. 

To Draft. The Forepart. 

1 A to B is 1/3 seat on "3rds" and 

2 B to C is 3>^ inches. 

3 This is the proportional and includes all allowances. 

4 From C to A is the actual "Rise" as measured. 

5 C to E is the inside length, and j4 inch for a seam. 

6 D is half way between E and C, and 2 inches up. 

7 Square out from A, B, C, D and E. 

8 C to H is J/2 seat — on "halves." 

9 H to I is "/^ seat — on "8ths." 

10 Go out / inch from I and in % inch from 1, making 

}i inch ; this is for the dress side. 

11 Square up from H, locating 2 on line B. 

12 H to J is 3/2 inch (for 2 seams) square up to K. 

13 Draw a guide line from K to H for run of dress. 

14 L is half way between C and L 

15 Go in y^ inch for every size less than 40 seat, and out 

Yi inch for every size more ; from L. 

16 Square up and down from L, locating O, M and N 

17 N to 4 is 2 inches, the full amount of Bow leg. 

18 Draw a line from 4 to L. — The center line. 

19 4 to P is 34 bottom less % inch ; 4 to Q is the same. 

20 Draw a straight line from I to Q ; this locates R. 

21 Measure J/l width of knee from R to G. 

22 Draw lines from C to G and P. 

22) Normal waist is 4 inches less than seat. 

24 A to S is V/z inches. This is normal. 

25 H to the curve of front fork is 1/12 seat by A. 

26 Shape the fork K to I, outer corner; and 

27 Dress side from K to J/^ inch above I ; inner corner. 

28 The largest dress hollow (y% inch) should be opposite 

H. 

29 The seams from I should be straight 7j/' inches down. 

30 For "Prominent Dress," allow 54 inch more on fork; 

curve as shown by the broken lines. 

31 Shape side seam from S; the broken line shows a 

high hip bone. 

32 This completes the Forepart. Cut out the pattern. 

The Backpart. 

34 Extend lines O, B, L, M and N. 

35 Add 34 inch to length of Backpart from N. 

36 O to T is 1/6 seat — on "6ths." 

37 Draw a straight line from T to J. 



38 From forepart fork to U is 1/16 seat. 

39 Measure seat and 1^ inches 2 to B, and 11 to F. 

40 R to X is 3^2 inch for seams; G to Y is the same. 

41 P to V is 3^ inch more than /z bottom. 

42 Q to W is the same ; draw lines Y to VV and X to V. 

43 Draw a line from Y through F to Z. 

44 Y to Z is the length from S to G, or sweep. 

45 Draw a line from Z to T. 

46 Z to 10 is 3^ seat; draw a line to L. 

47 Apply waist measure and 234 inches from K to S and 

T to Z ; take out a Yz inch V at 10. 

48 The V extends down 1/6 of seat measure. 

49 J to the curve of back fork is 1/24 seat, by A. 

50 U is 34 inch below line C-I. 

51 Shape seat seam through corner of forepart to U. 

52 Shape outside and inside seams and mark notches. 

53 In no case should A to S exceed 1J4 inches. 

54 If narrow trousers, a calf should be put on. 

55 Notch knee and bottom and they will hang correct 

without extra manipulations; trace the center line 
through front and backpart. 

56 This will absolutely cure any case of bow legs. 

57 34. Curved Hips. — How legs are usually accom- 

panied by curved hips, i. e., they are wide from 
side to side and very shallow from front to rear. 

58 In such cases the seat measure will be too large, pro- 

ducing too deep a fork. 
39 Draft the pattern by one size less, and add to the 
side at C a 34 inch on front and backpart. 

60 35. Flat Seat. — So-called, if treated as described 

under curved hips, will produce a clean fit. 

61 When a person is otherwise normal built (not curved 

hips) take off 34 to J/2 inch on seat seam opposite 
1 1 ; draw a line from T to H and reshape to U. 

62 36. Slew Footed.— Or toe-out. Establish the center 

line and width of bottom ; add to V on backpart 
34 inch, or the amount over the instep the crease 
line is of? ; shape from the knee down ; deduct from 
W the same amount. 

63 The forepart will follow the new backpart. notch 

the bottom, and they will fall right when finished. 

64 37. Knock-Knee. — For Knock-Knees, the process of 

the bow leg is reversed. 

65 38. Spring Bottom. — Or Bell bottom. The forepart 

should be cut narrow at the bottom so as to facili- 
tate shrinking in front, and should not exceed 7 
inches in width; the extra width is added to the 
backpart, and should not extend up over 4 or 5 
inches. 



12 



TROUSERS 



§ 5 



Peg Top 

Diagram 64 



Outside length 42^ inches. Thigh (actual) 21 inches. 

Inside length 32^ inches. Knee 21^/^ inches. 

Waist 34 inches. Bottom 16 inches. 

Seat or hip 40 inches. 

To Draft. The Forepart. 

1 First draft a normal trouser, then add the peg. 

2 A to B is 1/3 seat on "3rds" and 

3 B to C is 3>4 inches (10^4). 

4 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

5 From C to A is the actual "Rise" as measured. 

6 C to E is the inside length, and ^ inch for a seam. 

7 D is half way between E and C, and 2 inches up. 

8 Square out from A, B, C, D and E. 

9 C to H is ^ seat — on "halves." 

10 H to I is )^ seat — on "8ths." 

1 1 G o out y2 inch from I, and in ^ inch from I, making 

y^ inch; this is for the dress side. 

12 Square up from H, locating 2 on line B. 

13 H to J is 3^ inch (for 2 seams), square up to K. 

14 Draw a guide line from K to H for run of dress. 

15 L is half way between C and I. 

16 Go in Yi, inch for every size less than 40 seat, and out 

yi inch for every size more; from L. 

17 Square up and down from L, locating O, M and N. 

18 N to P is ^ bottom less ^ inch ; N to Q is the same. 

19 Draw a straight line from I to Q, locating R. 

20 Draw lines, C, G, P and I to R. 

21 Normal waist is 4 inches less than seat. 

22 A to S is lj/2 inches. This is normal. 

23 H to the curve of front fork is 1/12 seat, by A. 

24 Shape the fork K to I outer corner ; and 

25 Dress side from K to J/^ inch above I ; inner corner. 

26 The largest dress hollow {% inch) is opposite H. 

27 The seams from I should be straight 73X inches down. 

28 For "Prominent dress," allow % i"ch more on fork 

curve, as shown by the broken lines. 

29 Shape the side seam from S ; the broken line shows a 

high hip bone. 

30 This completes the forepart, as represented by the 

thin solid lines. 

31 The dot and dash lines is the lialf Peg. 



No. 
Normal. 
Add to seat line 
Add to fork 
Add to knee 



No. 1 
Slightly Peg. 
^ and 1/2 inch 
and 14 inch 
yi and linch 



Lower the "Rise" % inch 



No. 2 
Half Peg. 
1 and 1 inch 
14 and % inch 
1 and 2 inches 
'A incli 



32 The heavy solid lines is the full Peg. 

33 In this case all measures are figured for the normal 

and the Peg added. 

The Backpart. 

35 Extend lines O, B, L, M and N. 

36 Add 14 inch to length of Backpart from N. 

37 O to T is 1/6 seat — on "6ths." 

38 Draw a straight line from T to J. 

39 From normal forepart fork to U is 1/16 seat. 

40 Measure seat and 1% inches 2 to B, and 11 to F. 

41 R to X is 3^2 inch for seams; G to Y is the same. 

42 P to \' is y2 inch more than % bottom. 

43 Q to W is the same ; draw lines Y to W and X to V. 

44 Draw a line from Y through F to Z. 

45 Y to Z is the length from S to G, or sweep. 

46 Draw a line from Z to T. 

47 Z to 10 is J 8 seat; draw a line to L. 

48 Apply waist measure and 2^ inches from K to S 

and T to Z ; take out a ^^ inch V at 10. 

49 The V extends down 1/6 of seat measure. 

50 J to the curve of back fork is 1/24 seat. 

51 U is ^ inch below C-I. 

52 Shape seat seam through corner of forepart to U. 

53 Shape outside and inside seams and mark notches. 

54 In no case should A to S exceed 1^ inches. 

55 This completes the backpart, as represented by the 

thin, solid lines ; trace through the center line and 
marK crease in that line. 

56 The dot and dash lines is the half peg. 

57 The heavy, solid lines is the full peg. 

58 Below is the addition for all peg sizes, to be added 

to the normal trousers. 

59 The first column of figures represents the forepart, 

the second the backpart. 

60 40. For example half peg. Add to seat line of the 

forepart 1 inch, and to the backpart 1 inch. 

61 Add to fork ; forepart J^ inch, to backpart % inch. 

62 Add to knee forepart 1 inch ; backpart 2 inches. 

63 Lower the waist a y inch. 

64 The same way for a full peg, etc 



No. 3 
Full Peg. 
ly and 2 inches 
y and }i inch 
1>4 and 3 inches 
^4 inch 



No. 4 
Extreme Peg. 
2 and 3 inches 
y and y inch 
2 and 4 inches 
1 inch 



No. 5 
I Extra Large. 
2y2 and 4 inches 
% and y inch 
3 and 5 inches 
ly inches 



§ 5 



TROUSERS 



13 




DIAGRAM 64 - PEG TROUSERS 



14 



TROUSERS 




§ 5 



TROUSERS 



15 



Corpulent Trousers 

Diagram 65 



Outside length 43 inches. Seat or hip 44 inches. 

Inside length 3 1>4 inches. Thigh (actual) 23 inches. 

Waist 46 inches. Knee 23>4 inches. 

Corpulency 48 inches. Bottom 17 inches. 

To Draft. The Forepart. 

1 A to B is 1/3 seat on "3rds," and 

2 B to C is 3>4 inches (10/^). 

3 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

4 From C to A is the actual "Rise" as measured. 

5 C to E is the inside length, and J4 inch for a seam. 

6 D is half way between E and C, and 2 inches up. 

7 3 is 1/3 of A and B, or "Rise." 

8 Square out from A, B, C, D, E and 3. 

9 C to H is >4 seat — on "halves." 

10 H to I is >^ seat — on "8ths." 

11 Go out yi inch from 1 and in }4 inch from I, making 

^ inch; this is for the dress side. 

12 Square up from H, locating 2 on line B. 

13 H to J is j^ inch (for 2 seams), square up to K. 

14 L is half way between C and I. 

15 Go in }i inch for every size less than 40 seat, and out 

]4, inch for every size more, from L. 

16 Square up and down from L, locating O, M and N. 

17 N to P is )4 bottom less J4 inch; N to Q is the same. 

18 Draw a straight line from I to Q, locating R. 

19 M to G is ^ knee on "4ths" ; M to R is the same. 

20 Draw lines C, G, P and I to R. 

21 J to 4 is 34 inch for every inch difference between 

seat and corpulency. 

22 Square up from 4, locating 5. 

22 K to 7 is one and one-half times as much as J to 4; 
square back from 7. 

24 7 forward is J^ inch for every inch over normal. 

25 Normal waist is 4 inches less than seat. 

26 Draw a line from 5 to H for run of fly. 

27 5 to 6 is ^ corpulency and >4 inch for 2 seams. 

28 A to S is lj4 inches. This is normal. 

29 S to A is J^ inch for every inch more than normal. 

30 Draw a line from S to 7, and shape the top. 

31 H to the curve of front fork is 1/12 seat by A. 
i2 Shape the fork from K to I outer corner; and 

33 Dress side from K to J^ inch above I ; inner corner. 

34 The largest dress hollow (^ inch) should be opposite 

H. 

35 The seams from I should be straight 7Y2 inches down. 



36 Shape the side seam from S. 
Z7 This completes the forepart. Cut out the pattern. 
The Backpart. 

39 Extend lines U, B, L, M, N and 3. 

40 Add 34 inch to length of backpart from N. 

41 O to T is 1/6 seat — on "6ths." 

42 Draw a straight line from T to J. 

43 From forepart fork to U is 1/16 seat — on "16ths." 

44 Measure seat and l^/^ inches 2 to B, and 11 to F. 

45 R to X is 3^ inch for seams ; G to Y is the same. 

46 P to V is 3^1 inch more than Yi bottom. 

47 Q to W is the same ; draw lines Y to W and X to V. 

48 Draw a line from Y through F to Z. 

49 Y to Z is the length from S to G, or sweep. 

50 Draw a line from Z to T. 

51 Corpulency — From 5 to 6, and 8 to 9, and 1 inch. 

52 Apply waist measure and 1 inch from K to S, and 

T to Z ; no F is taken out. 

53 Add Yi the surplus waist to S and T. 

54 J to the curve of backfork is 1/24 seat by A. 

55 U is 34 inch below line C-I. 

56 Shape seat seam through corner of forepart to U. 

57 Shape outside and inside seams and mark notches. 

58 If more ease or fullness is required over the seat, 

a V must be taken out, and the difference added 
to T and Z. 

59 A waistband should be cut for corpulents, and the 

forepart held in on top over the stomach ; not in 
front. 

60 If the person is built narrow over the hip and deep 

from front to back (as most corpulents are) it 
is best to increase the stride or fork from J to I 
and U by one size. 

Corpulent Trousers — Narrow Hips 

The process as described and shown on the diagram 
for wide hips, is reversed for corpulents. 

The trousers are cut one size more from J to I and U. 

L is established as usual ; then go out ]/% inch for every 
size above 40 seat. 

Corpulent people are built more close in the hips; 
because the hips are contracted from holding up the large 
stomach. 

The legs also spread out at the bottom, for the same 
leason, requiring a longer inseam. 

Finish the top as described on corpulent. 



16 



TROUSERS 



§ 5 



Riding Breeches 

Diagram 66 



1 In measuring for Riding Breeches iiave the customer 

pull up the trousers in the front, not by the sides, 
then pin, or tie a string around the leg just above 
knee, so as to hold the trousers in position while 
the length measures arc taken. 

2 Make a chalk mark opposite the upper part of the 

knee cap (,or large kneej. 

3 Mark below the knee joint (_ small knee or garter). 

4 Mark the largest part of the calf, and about 1 inch 

above the anklebone, or about 4>^ inches less than 
trouser length. 

5 Now take the measures. 

6 The outside length can be taken to opposite the lower 

chalk mark — or the rise can be obtained by pro- 
portion, and the length from regular trousers. 

7 Measures of the circumferences of the leg should be 

taken over the underwear. 

8 In measuring over the knee, hold your tape line close, 

then bend the knee as in a sitting position. It will 
make a difference of 1 inch. 

9 The measure over the calf should be taken when leg 

is in a bent position. 

10 The other measures are taken in the ordinary way. 
The measures are as follows : 

1 1 Outside length (42%) 38>^ inches. 

12 Inside length (32i^) to knee (large knee) 14^ inches. 

13 Inside length to garter (small knee) .... 17 j4 inches. 

14 Inside length to Calf 20>4 inches. 

15 Full length 24>^ inches. 

The circumference measures are: 

16 Large knee (or bent knee) 14^4 inches. 

17 Garter (or small knee) (close) 12^/2 inches. 

18 Calf (bent position) Hyi inches. 

19 Bottom (or ankle) 9>4 inches. 

20 Waist 35 inches. Seat 40 inches. 

To Draft. 

21 Add 2 inches to all length measures which will be 

taken up when in a sitting position. 

22 Square both ways from A. 

23 A to C is 1/3 seat, plus 3^2 inches. 

24 A to B is the outside length — 38J/2 inches. 

25 B to C is the inside length — 27^ inches. 

26 C to D is 2 inches — more than 14^ inches. 

27 D to E is 3 inches — 19% inches. 

28 E to F is 4 inches — 23J4 inches. 

29 F to B is 5 inches— 28^ inches. 

30 C to G is 1/6 seat. 

31 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F and G. 

32 C to H is J4 seat— 20 on "halves." 



33 H to 1 is yi seat plus ^ inch — for stride. 

34 1 to J is 1 inch — for dress. 

35 H to K is y'z inch, square up to L and from H through 

2. 

36 M is half way between C and I. 

37 Square up to N and down to O. 

38 B to P is >^ seat. E to Q is the same. 

39 Draw a line from P through Q establishing R and S. 

40 C to T is 1^ inches. 

41 L to U is yz waist, lower 3^ inch at L in front. 

42 Shape the outside seam. 

43 S to 3 is 1/3 large knee (14% inches) plus 1 inch. 

44 Q to 4 is 1/3 garter (12^ inches) plus 1 inch. 

45 R to 5 is 1/3 calf (W^^ inches) plus 1 inch. 

46 Draw a line from 3 to I and J. 

47 Shape the fork and inside seams through 3-4-5 to O. 

This completes the forepart. 

The Backpart. 

48 Extend lines A, B, C, D, E, F and N to X. 

49 3 to 6 is 3/< inch ; 4 to 7, 5 to 8 and O to 9 is the same. 

50 J to V is 1/16 seat plus JX inch. 

51 6 to 10 is 2/3 large knee plus yi inch. 

52 7 to 11 is 2/3 garter (small) plus }i inch. 

53 8 to 12 is 2/3 calf plus '^ inch. 

54 9 to 13 is ankle plus 3 inches, take out 2 inch V. 

55 The V is in the center of back part. 

56 N to X is 1/6 seat, K to 4 is 1>4 inches. 

57 Draw a line from X to 4. 

58 Apply waist measure plus 1 inch L to U and X to W, 

% inch above W and 1 inch above X. 

59 T to 14 is 2 inches. 

60 Shape side seam from W through 14, 10, 11, 12 to 13. 

Notch at 14 and hold in the back to W. 

61 Shape seat seam from above X to V. 

62 From 7 to 10 take out a fish 1 inch in the center taper- 

ing to 7 and 10 — under the knee. 

63 Take out '/ inch of top side opposite knee ; providing 

a strapping covers it, and must be stated. 

64 In Making. — The forpart is held in J/ inch between 

Q and S, and 3 and 4, the amount of the fish and 
seams, and shrunk out to form the knee. 

65 The calves are shrunk back until the seams are 

straight. 

66 The Reinforcement. — Start half way between •^eat 

and knee and extend about 1 inch below small 
knee, and about half way in on the back part, 
nothing on the forepart. 

67 The top button is % inch from knee line. 

68 Finish with a Small Falls, or a fly. 



TROUSERS 



17 




DIAGRAM 66 ^ RIDING BREECHES 



18 



TROUSERS 



§ 5 



Table No. 4 



^ 5 ft.- ^ 

Height 3 4 5 6 7 8 V 9'^ 10 10>4 11 11>4 6 ft. 

Rreast 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 

Waist 29U 30 31 32 33 34 SSyi 37 38>^ 40 41 >4 43 44j4 

Seat 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 

Rise 9y4 9^ 9y2 9% 9j^ 10 10>4 10^ 10>4 10^ 10% 11 lUA 

Length 29/2 30 30/2 31 31/ 32 32/ 32^ 33 33^4 333^ 33^ 34 

Knee 17 17>^ 18 18/ 19 19/ 20 20/ 21 21/ 22 22/ 23 

Bottom 14.34 15 15/ 15/ 15':; 16 16/ 16/ 16^ 17 1754 17/ 17j4 



Table No. 5 

TROUSERS - STOUT ~ 1st DEGREE 



-5 ft.- 



-5 ft.- 



Height 4 

Breast 35 

Waist 32 

Seat 36 

Rise 9/ 

Length 30 

Knee 18 

Bottom 15 



6 
37 
34 
38 



5 
36 
33 
37 

9% 9% 10 
30/ 31 3n 
18/ 19 



8 9 9/10 10/ 11 11/ 6 ft. 11/ 

39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 
36 37/ 39 40/ 42 43/ 45 46/ 48 

40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 
10/ \m 10/ \m 10% 11 11/ 113% 11/ 
32 32/ 32^ 33 33/ 33/ 2,Z}i 34 33% 

19/ 20 20/ 21 21/ 22 22/ 23 23/ 24 



15/ 15/ 15^4 16 16/ 16/ 16% 17 17% 17/ 17% 18 



Table No. 6 

TROUSERS - CORPULENT - 2d DEGREE 



-5 ft.- 



-5 ft.- 



Height 5 6 7 8 9 9/ 10 10/ 11 11/ 6ft. 11/ 11 

Breast 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 

Waist 35 36 37 38 39/41 42/44 45/ 47 48/ 50 51/ 

Seat 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46- 47 4« 49 50 

Rise 9% 10 10/ 10% 11/ 10% 10% 11 11% 11% 11/ 11% 11% 

Length 30/ 31 31/ 32 32^. 32% 33 33/ 33/ 33% 34 33% 33/ 

Knee 18/ 19 19/ 20 20/ 21 21/ 22 22/ 23 23/ 24 24/ 

Bottom 15/ 15/ 15% 16 " ' ' ^ ^ ^ 



16/ 16/ 16% 17 17% 17/ 17% 18 18% 



Table No. 7 

TROUSERS - CORPULENT 3d DEGREE 



-5 ft.- 



-5 ft.- 



Height 6 7 8 9 9/ 10 10/ 11 11/ 6ft. 11/ 11 10/ 

Breast 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 

Waist 38 39 40 41/ 43 44/ 46 47/ 49 50/ 52 53% 55 

Seat 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 

Rise 10% 10% 10/ 10% 10% 11 11% 11% 11/ 11% 11% 12 12% 

Length 31 31/ 32 32/ 32% 33 33/ 33/ 33% 34 33% 33/ 33% 

Knee 19 19/ 20 20/ 21 21/ 22 22/ 23 23/ 24 24/ 25 

Bottom 15/ 15% 16 16% 16/ 16% 17 -^ - 



17% 17/ 17% 18 18% 18/ 



The 

International Gutting SchooFs 

System of Cutting 



By L. GIBSON 

New York — Chicago 



First Edition, 1909, One Thousand Copies Second Edition, 1911, One Thousand Copies 

Third Edition, 1913, One Thousand Copies 



GRADING 

(PART SIX) 



Entered according to Act of Congress (Act of March 4, 1909), in the year 1913 
by L. Gibson, in the oCfice of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C. 

ALL FOREIGN RIGHTS RESERVED 



(Printed in the United Stales) 



GRADING § 6 



Complete Grading System 



The Principle of Grading 

1. The principle of a system of grading is the carry- 
ing out of the different proportions from one size to 
another. 

To those who are now using this system, it will be very 
easy. But this principle will be equally applicable to any 
system of cutting, so that all the patterns will have the 
same merits as the model, or the same faults. 

If you are cutting a different system it will be good 
exercise, as well as testing your system, to draft two 
patterns by your system, the largest and the smallest, and 
grade one of them to the size of the other and see if they 
come out even; which they should. 

Do not make yourself believe that spacing between 
2 patterns is grading; that would be only spacing; there 
would be no graduation in that. 

The fact is that there is not a system of grading pub- 
lished in the United States today but this one. 

The idea of parallel grading, as it was called, has been 
given up long ago even by the man who made it. 

A system, if correct in its proportions, should come 
out even with the grading points for all sizes. 

This system does that. Try and see if yours does. 

In grading the different types of form, it is better to 
grade each separately, such as Normals, Fat Men, Slims, 
Youths and Boys. 



§6 



GRADING 





DIAGRAM 68 -CUTAWAYS 



50 5. The Forepart Cutaway. — All points are the same, 

as the frock forepart. 

51 The line through the notch is to regulate the height 

and is 1/6 inch for every size. 



52 Point 20 is where the two lines meet. 

53 The bottom length is the same continued forward. 



See next page for details. 



GRADING 



§6 



Frock and Cutaways 



1 For the normal sizes, that is .33 to 44, it is best to 

use a 36 size model. 

2 A model to be used for grading should be cut very 

accurately and allowances made for the dififerent 
classes of work and the make up ; such as Custom 
Tailoring, Custom Order and Wholesale. 

3 With a model of the class you wish to make, proceed 

as follows : 

4 To establish the breast-line 

5 Lay the model pattern in position ; the Back against 

a straight line drawn vertically. 

6 The sidebody 1^ inches from the back at the waist 

and touching the back over the rounding above 
the breast line. 

7 The forepart against the sidebody at breast line and 

a 54 inch apart at the bottom. 

8 Square across for the breast line. 

Diagram 69 

9 2. The Back. — Mark all around the model. 

10 From B, which is the grading point, draw radiating 

lines through A, R, X, Y and L. 
U The increase from A, R and X is 1/6 inch every size. 

12 Square up from breast line at L to Y. 

13 L to M is ^ inch for every size. Square up to N. 

14 From X advance the same amount (1 inch) and 

square up. This is to regulate the width of 
shoulder. 

15 The waist line increases 1 32 inch for every size, or 

% inch. 

16 Place the model over the breast line B on B. 

17 Move up on line R to size 44, keeping breast line 

even. 

18 Mark from R to A and R to X. 

19 Place model pattern B on B ; move forward on the 

B-Y line, keeping the back even until the new point 
at the waist. 

20 Mark the back from breast to waist line. 

21 The new position is shown by the broken lines. 

22 Now let the back touch at point N and breast line, 

and mark the run over the blade. 
2Z Draw a new grading line through X. 

24 Shape X to N. 

25 The length remains the same at the bottom. 



26 The full length from A to Bottom of skirt increases 

a yi inch for every size. 

27 Divide the spaces in halves, or by the "Square." 

28 In taking off the patterns from the model chart shape 

by the size larger. 

Diagram 70 

29 3. The Side Body.— Mark all around the model, 

mark the breast line. 

30 Square up from M to O — top of side body. 

31 M to U is 1/16 inch for every size. Square up. 
?>2 Draw lines from D through O and T. 

?ii The increase over breast line is % inch from 36 to 44. 

,34 Shape the large size by the model, placing O to- top, 
keeping the breast line parallel and mark back- 
wards. 

35 Place model D on D and swing up till the lines meet 

above the blade. 

36 Move forward over the breast line and shape the side 

parallel with the model. 
2)7 Place model O on O, keeping breast line even, and 
mark for run of scye. 

38 Where the two lines intersect at T draw a line 

through first and last from a point as far back of 
T as K is from 2 on forepart. 

39 The waist line is straight across, connect with back 

corner. This completes the side body. 

Diagram 71 

40 4. The Forepart Frock. — Mark all around the model, 

the breast line, and point K. 

41 Square up from K by the breast line. 

42 Draw radiating lines K through 19, V, Z, 1 and 2. 

43 The increase, 19 and V is 1/6 inch for every size. 

44 The increase, point \ is yi inch for every size. 

45 From 2 to B on Back there is an increase of 2 inches 

all told, as the increase over breast line on Back 
is a J4 inch, and to the side body ^ inch, making 
1 inch ; there remains for the forepart 1 inch to 
increase. 

46 From 2 therefore is yi inch increase for every size. 

47 The front increases a J4 'ich for every size. 

48 The depth in front is 1/24 inch for every size. 

49 Shape outside lines by the model and space off. 



§6 



GRADING 




GRADING 



§6 




Diagram 72 

54 6. The Lapel. — Draw lines through the top corner 

and through inside lower corner from the breast 
line. 

55 The increase at top is yg inch for every size. 

56 The increase of lower length is 1/24 every size. 

57 The increase over breast is 1/16 inch for every size. 

58 Shape by the model. Draw grading line through 

lower corner; space buttonholes as shown. 

Diagram 73 

59 7. The Collar. — The collar increases y^ inch for 

every size in the back, and ^4 inch from 33 to 44 
in the front ; on a line drawn from the 36 size in 
back through the front corner. 

60 The width increases a J4 inch from 33 to 44 sizes. 



Diagram 74 

61 8. The Skirt.— Mark all around the model. 

62 Draw a line from 23 through 24 to 25. 

63 The increase of the side body and forepart has been 

4 inches ; therefore, 24 to 25 is 4 inches or a ^ inch 
for every size. 

64 The lapel is not included, there will be that much 

less fullness on the skirt, which is right. 

65 For increase of length see length of the Back. 

Diagram 74 

C>6 9. The Cutaway Skirt. — Is graded the same way; 
only 3^4 inches, as the lapel increase is not in- 
cluded. 



§6 



GRADING 




Diagram 75 

67 10. Top Sleeve. — If the pattern is a half-and-half 

establish point B on breast line or the point as at S. 

68 In this case point B is % inch back of S. 

69 Laying the corners Q together, the upper on under 

sleeve will show how much the seam is shifted. 

70 Mark all around the model, and point B. 

71 From B draw radiating lines J, M, G and Q. 

72 The increase at G is 1/6 inch for every size. 

73 AtM ys inch (J 2/3 of an inch all told). 

74 The length from S-U is 1/6 inch for every size. 

75 Shape outside lines by the model ; space elbow and Q. 



Diagram 76 

76 11. Under Sleeve. — Mark all around the model. 

77 Draw a line from \'' to X and square out to K. 

78 K is ^ inch from V or half-and-half sleeve. 

79 From K draw radiating lines R and Z. 

80 The increase at R is 1/6 inch for every size. 

81 The length from V-X is 1/6 inch for every size. 

82 Shape outside lines by the model; space elbow 

andQ. 

83 The advantages of taking 4 sizes between is found 

by dividing in halves for every size. 

84 In taking oflf patterns always shape by the next 

largest. 



GRADING 



§6 



Sack Coats 



Diagrams 77-78 

85 Sizes 4 year to 48 breast. The diagram shows a 

pattern up to a 48 breast; but it is not advisable 
to go higher than a 42 or 44 breast, because the 
height of the person will not follow. 

86 It should be understood a 36 breast corresponds to 

a 5 feet 6 inches in height; to be normal to this 
style of grading would bring the height up to 6 
feet 6 inches. 

87 We know that people do not grow that high; as a 

rule the height is usually limited to 6 feet. (See 
table of proportions and how to make one yourself 
to fit the locality.) 

88 The Stouts run from 36 to 44. 

89 The corpuients from 40 to over 50 breast size. 

90 For corpulent coat see under Part 1 corpulent Sack, 

52 breast, 56j^2 waist, which will show the increase 
and decrease on point A, S, X and V. 

91 For sizes below 36 proceed as explained in this Dia. 

92 12. Normal Size. — Lay the pattern in position, the 

back against a straight line, the forepart touching 
the back at the breast line and a vertical line in 
front. 
''3 Square across for the breast line. Mark point K. 

Diagram 77 

94 13. The Back.— Mark all around the model. 

95 Mark breast line and point B ; remove the pattern. 

96 From B draw radiating lines through A, S, X, L, 

P, N and E, through Y as far back as K is 
from Y. 

97 The increase and decrease from A, S and X is 1/6 

inch for every size (X on the corner). 

98 Square up from breast line L to X. 

99 L to M is 5^ inch increase for every size. 

100 Square up to O. 

101 This is to regulate the width of shoulder. 

102 Draw a new grading line through outer corner. 

103 N, P, Y lines are parallel with L. 

104 E increases 1/6 inch for every size. 

105 This is for all sizes down to 33 breast. 

106 All sizes below 33 breast are called ages instead of 

breast size ; for example, 33 breast is 18 year ; the 
next called 17 year and so on down to 4 year. 

107 Each year of age represents a ^ inch size instead 

of 1 inch. 



108 Therefore 4 years is drafted by ZZyi inches; 5 years 

by 23)4 inches, etc. 

109 Boys sizes are short and small in the back. 

1 10 Change them to erect forms by reducing size 33 two 

points at A and S and 2 points over the blade; a 
j4 inch at L and a }i inch on the forepart, as 
shown by the shaded part on the Back. 

111 The breast sizes now being 34 inch below 33. 

112 The blade therefore is yi breast and 3 inches. 

113 From the new 33 or 18 years to 4 years is 14 sizes, 

amounting to 15/16 of an inch (3/16 inch for 
every 2 sizes) to be divided into 14 sizes. 

114 The decrease from E is a ^ inch for every size. 

115 The 36 is 29, and the 4 year is 18)^ inches long. 

1 16 Shape by the model, keeping parallel with the breast 

line. 

117 Divide the spaces in halves until the required sizes 

are obtained. This completes the Back. 

Diagram 78 

US 14. The Forepart. — Mark all around the model. 

119 Square up from K by the breast line. 

120 From K draw radiating lines through 20, 19, V, Z, 

1, Y, IS and 11. 

121 The increase and decrease from 20, 19 and V is 1/6 

inch for every size. Point 1 is ^ inch. 

122 The front increases a J4 inch for every size. 

123 Y, L and 11 increases ]/& inch for every size. 

124 The length increases 1/6 inch for every size. 

125 This is for all sizes down to 33 breast. 

126 Size 33 in front has a 1/2 inch added that was lost 

over the blade, bringing the new 33 to size 35. 

127 From 33 decrease 1/6 inch for every size (2^ inches 

for 14' sizes) over the breast. 

128 At L from Z2> reduce a 3-4 inch for small blade. 

129 The balance 14 sizes decrease 3/16 inch for every 

2 sizes (15/16 inch) over blade. 

130 The front and side lines run parallel with front and 

L. 

131 The line from K to 1 1 is to govern the spring on the 

smaller sizes. 

132 Shape outside lines by the model; mark divisions 

133 Draw new grading line through 20 to 26. 

134 In taking off a pattern always shape by the next size. 



1 



§6 



GRADING 




10 



GRADING 



§ 6 





DIAGRAMS 79-80 — VESTS 



t 



§ 6 



GRADING 



11 



Vestj 



135 Sizes 33 to 44. — Lay the patterns in position. 

136 The back against a straight hne, the forepart touch- 

ing the back at breast line and a ^ inch from a 
straight line in front, opposite breast line. 

137 For a 4 inches difference breast and waist, keep an 

opening of 1 inch between front and back at the 
waist line. 

138 Square across, establishing the breast line. 

Diagram 79 

139 15. The Back.— Mark all around the model. 

140 Mark the breast line and remove the pattern. 

141 From B draw radiating lines A, S and X. 

142 The increase and decrease from A, S and X is 1/6 

inch for every size. 

143 The increase at 2 is J4 inch for every size. 

144 The same at the waist. 

145 E increases a yi inch from 36 to 44 (parallel). 

146 Below 33 the same sizes as in the Sack Coat. 

147 Draw grading lines through 2 and the bottom. 

148 Shape by the model. Divide the spaces in halves. 

149 Draw check lines through Y (^ inch) and over 

shoulder. 

Diagram 80 

150 16. The Forepart. — Mark all around the model. 

151 Mark the breast line and remove the pattern. 

152 K is J^ inch from the front of armhole. 



153 Square up from K by the breast line. 

154 From K draw radiating lines V and Z. 

155 21 is parallel with point V line. 

156 The increase and decrease from 21 and V is 1/6 inch 

for every size; through Z i^ inch. 

157 The front increases J4 inch for every size. 

158 The front length increases 1/6 inch for every size. 

159 The side length is a. yi inch from 36 to 44. 

160 The first button on a 36 is 1 inch above breast line. 

161 Draw line from K through first button. 

162 The lower button is 3 3^ inches up or half way be- 

tween waist line and bottom ; draw grading line. 

163 The back end of the top pocket is flush with the arm- 

hole, and 54 inch from the breast line. 

164 The front dip is ^ inch ; the length is 4 inches. 

165 Draw line from 21 through front ^nd of top pocket 

for front run of lower pocket. 

166 The top of front, and the bottom of back end of 

pocket rest on the waist line. 

167 The length is 4^-i inches, the width % inch. 

168 The front end increases % inch for every size. 

169 The back advances half that much. 

170 The top pocket the same; welt J4 inch wide. 

171 Divide the spaces with this "Square" the required 

sizes. 

172 The vest grade can be continued up to 52 breast, 

provided the necessary changes are made in waist 
size. 



12 



GRADING 



§6 




Diagram 81 

Trousers sizes 34 to 45 seat. 

173 17. The Forepart. — Draw a line across from C to G. 

174 I is half way between C and G. 

175 Mark through the pattern at I. 

176 Mark all around the pattern and remove. 

177 Square up from I through Y. 

178 Y to 5 is 1/6 inch 'for every size. 

179 Square both ways from 5 locating 4 and 8. 

180 H to 2 is 1/6 seat. 



181 Draw a line from I through 2. 

182 2 to F is 1/6 inch for every size. 

183 Draw lines H through Q, and C through P. 

184 C to 3 is J/^ inch for every size (1 inch). 

185 G to 7 is 3/16 inch for every size (1^ inches). 

186 P to 6 is 1 inch (ys), square up to 8. 

187 Rise above 8, the amount C-P is in front of 8. 

188 To bottom add 1/16 inch for every size (yi inch). 

189 Make the length the same (33 inches), or draw grad- 

ing lines from I. 

190 Shape by the model, divide the spaces in halves. 



§6 



GRADING 



13 




Diagram 82 

191 18. The Backpart. — Lay forepart on back part in na- 

tural position, with C about 1 inch from E; mark 
through at I, establishing J- 

192 Dra\7 a line across from E to R. 

193 Mark all around the pattern and remove it. 

194 Square up to 13, 1/6 seat. 

195 From J draw radiating lines 13, Z, 10 and X. 



196 The increase from 13, Z and X is 1/6 inch. 

197 Draw a line from E through Z to 18. 

198 Z to 18 is 1/12 for every size (1/6 on division). 

199 E to 9 is J^ inch for every size (1 inch). 

200 At bottom go out 1/16 for every size (or style). 

201 Shape outside lines by the model, and divide by 

halves. 

202 In taking off a pattern shape by the next size. 

203 The waist band increases J^ inch for every size. 



BLOCK PATTER NS 

AND A CORRECT WAY TO USE THEM 



We do not believe there is a cutter today but 
who will admit, that the use of a "Block Pattern" is 
an advantage and a savinsj of time. The onl}^ two 
questions to enter his mind is : First, how to _y;et such 
a pattern, and, second, how tn use it. The first (|ucs- 
tion we will answer by saying- that we have the only 
system in the world frtmi which patterns can be cut 
according- to the system and which will correspond to 
the grading points. No other system -will do so! 
The second question is how to use them correctly. 
Xo books published today gives a practical way of 
using patterns. For the lack of knowing how the 
cutter does not feel inclined to invest in F)lock Pat- 
terns. 

.\ "Flock Pattern" is a nurn-ial ])attern, cut nn 
scientific principles. There is such a Pattern. We 
will prove to any interested party that we have such 
a pattern. We have so far printed two editions of 
1,000 copies each of our system and they are all gone 
hut eight copies. AN'e ha\'e cutters using our system 
in every large city with exception of a few cities. 
And not one dis satisfied customer . To mention sys- 
tem til a cutter is like waxing :i red bandana to a bull; 
l)ut when it comes to patterns we are down amongst 
them, and results speak. 

Our Patterns are cut as close as a pencil mark 
will allow and each with the utmost care, so that 
sleeves and collar, etc., fit together accurately. In 
using such a pattern a cutter can cut a suit ; that is, 
draft the paper pattern in from 10 to 15 minutes; 
apply all short measures and make all changes, still 
the fitting points and the outlines will remain as accti- 
rately as the block pattern. The balance of the time a 
cutter can certainly put in to better advantages than 
to be drawing perpendicular and horizontal lines and 
curves on the paper. Yet you retain the model pat- 
tern for use again. 

An explanation on how to use them follows: To 
use Block Patterns on drafting paper is not difficult 
and only a few general rules are necessary. To use 
them direct on the cloth requires some practice, but 
it can be done equally as well. We will give an illus- 
tration of how they are used in the second instance. 

Flere is a measure taken from a live customer 
reading as follows : Length of coat 3-5 inches, sleeves 
35 inches, breast 38, waist 3.5 inches (here use the 
short measures if you have them). The trousers: 



Outside 45, inside 34 inches, waist 33, thigh 22, seat 40, 
knee 243/, bottoms IG. Height 6 feet, weight 135 
puunds, shoulders regular, neck medium long, chest 
regular, hollow waist, hips medium broad, collar size 
1.-^. .Measures taken over heavy underwear, form fit- 
ting back. Suppose this measure was taken in the 
store, a description of the attitude, etc., of the cus- 
tomer will not be amiss, in addition to the measures. 
ll will liring the whole form before yo"*" mind's eye 
wlu-ii drafting. 

Take an ordinary Block Pattern of the size 
re<|uir(.'d. and before drafting make these memoran- 
dums. T'le height being G feet indicate too tall for the 
size of pattern. Lengthen front and back shoulder of 
the coat }i-uich. Widen the shoulders of front and 
back '4-i"ch. Add to spring over the hip ^-inch ; 
then either enlarge the sleeve head ^-inch or use a 39 
sleeve. I'or trousers, he has indicated a full peg; 
wciuld therefore use a 40 No. 4, a full peg. The meas- 
ure shows a rise of 11 inches. The normal rise of a 
40 seat is 10J4 inches, but as this man wants a full 
peg or Xo. 4; the size 40, of which has a rise of dyi 
inches, will therefore change this measure to 9j4 
inches on account of his height; the other measures 
remain as taken. 

.\fter receiving the goods, shake it thoroughly so 
that it will lay naturally; smooth it out. If it is a 
cut. or length, see that the tag end is at your right 
side, then the nap, if any, will run towards the left. 
Lav the patterns in position, as shown in the diagram. 
The sleeves may be reversed if necessary. The rule 
of laying patterns is to place the larger pieces first and 
to commence at the left end. 

To use : Commence with the forepart of trousers, 
mark from halfway up the fly to top of waist band, 
along the top of forepart and the side at waist, now 
lower the pattern j^i inch (in this case), making the 
rise 9J4. Then mark from inside knee up to fork and 
through curve of fork, mark past the seat notch and 
notch it, now mark the knee notches at the 32 inches 
long knee mark. The measure calls for a 245^-inch 
knee, and the pattern being 25i/, inches; reduce '/i 
inch on fore part and K' '"ch on back part ; swing the 
pattern out of the way and mark the reduction of 
ij-inch on the outside seam at knee, bring the pattern 



back in position. Now get the length 34 inthes by 
moving the pattern down 3 inches, noting the notches 
at the knee, thereby avoiding the use of the tape line. 
The bottom wanted 16 inches, the pattern also being 
IG inches. Now shape by the pattern from bottom to 
knee on the inside, then from bottom to new knee 
mark, from knee to hip notch. The waist wanted 
33 inches, the pattern being 34 inches; reduce J4-inch 
for every inch on the side seam of the waist, using the 
pattern to shape by, also shape part way of the dress, 
then add the turn-up, whether cuffs or otherwise. This 
completes the forepart of the trousers. 

The back part : Place in position ; mark the 
amount of turn-up, the width of bottom and a few 
inches up, move up the pattern ; at the knee the length 
required, 34 inches, mark the notches at the 33 length 
notch, so as to have them in the same place as the 
forepart. Mark seat, and inside seam to knee; mark 
the hip notch, and past it. Now raise the rise 
54-i"ch and mark along the top; reduce J^-inch on 
side seam at waist to 33 from 34 waist. Shape out- 
side seam by the pattern, reducing 5^-inch at the knee. 
Bring the pattern back in original position, shape from 
the bottom up to the knee on both sides. This com- 
pletes the trousers with the exception of shaping the 
outlet on the inside seam, also mark the outlet over 
seat seam by the hand. Never change the seat seam 
on back part nor the front line on forepart. 

The coat: Place the forepart in position, mark 
along the bottom and rise the amount of turn-up 1^4 
inch ; now move the pattern up until the desired length 
is obtained (in this case 3.5 inches) ; the pattern being- 
Si inches. Mark along the front from the waist down, 
(The pattern being a straight front sack.) Now mark 
the armhole, the notches and top of side seam, add the 
^-inch over the hip ; move the whole pattern out hori- 
zontally, the J4"inch and shape from hip down, then 
connect top of side seam with the line at the hip, using 
the pattern to shape by. Shape the outlet on side seam 



by the model always. Bring the pattern bac': in origi- 
nal position and mark the pockets and under-arm cut. 
Now mark to top of the shoulder J4"inch higher and 
also ^-inch wider, move the pattern up and shape the 
shoulder, armhole and the gorge as far as the collar 
notch ; remove the block and finish the lapel and front 
by the style shaper, or if the block is style, finish with 
it, marking the buttonholes, also lower the lower 
pocket and lower buttonhole to correspond to the 
height. The pocket being 3-3 the inside sleeve length 
down from armseye. This completes the forepart. 

Place the facing as indicated by the diagram. Lay 
the coat back in position, if a center vent is wanted, allow 
cloth for the vent ; also see that the stripes will come 
out even spaced in center seam when finished ; mark 
along the bottom and allow for turn-up l%-ind:i, 
move up the pattern until the desired length is gained, 
less the J^-inch to be lengthened at the top of back for 
height. Now mark inside seam from top of shoulder 
down, taking off ^-inch at the waist if the goods are 
striped to balance the fill in in the center of back. In 
this case raise the shoulder and back 54"inch, as indi- 
cated on the memorandum slip, and finish, allowing 
outlet at the top of the back. 

Place the two sleeves in position; if necessary, 
reverse the lay of both if there is no nap ; see that the 
upper and lower points of the inseam of the top sleeve 
run even with a stripe. Allow 2y2 inches for a turn-up, 
then mark from elbow down on both seams ; move the 
pattern up until the right length is obtained, keeping 
even with the stripes, then mark the upper half of the 
sleeve ; connect the upper and lower marks, following 
a straight line so that the original hollowness on 
inseam is maintained ; also the same width over the 
elbow. The outlet for the turn-up and vent is shaped 
by the pattern. This completes the top sleeve. 



This Coupon when properlg filled out and accompanied bg 25 cents, will be good for one Pattern of 
any size, either Coat, Vest or Trousers, described in this circular 



Stgle 

Other Measures. 

Firm Name .. 
Address 



. Size Customer's Height Breast. 



.Seat. 



I 



Place undersleeve in position; it is not necessary 
for the stripes to run exactly true; mark the upper 
half, get the length and finish bottom in the same 
manner as the top sleeve, allowing an outlet on inside 
seam. 

Place the top collar, if nap on the goods, so the 
nap will run downward in the center of back. 

The breast pocket welt nearly always is taken out 
of the armseye. The lower flaps can be taken either 
above or below the sleeve, other fittings have theii 
places. In all cases shape outlets by the model, except 
the top of shoulder. This lay can be closed up or 
extended to suit any sizes, except very large ones, and 
for a lay with fittings cannot be surpassed ; scores of 
cutters have adopted it since we first introduced i^. 
We claim originality of it. 

Whether the changes are made on the cloth as 
described or a pattern is cut, the process of laying and 
marking is the same. To start, would advise drafting 
a pattern first, making the necessary changes by the 
same process as here described. 

To prove the merits of the patterns, we will make 
this extraordinary offer : To anyone sending or bring- 
ing us the coupon attached hereto and 25 cents, we 
will cut one pattern, choice of any one printed in this 
circular, be it coat, vest or trousers. 

In ordering trousers, state wliat number desired, 
from 1 to 6 or corpulent. In all cases give height of 
customer. 

It is surprising so many merchants and cutters 
hesitate about investing in patterns. A merchant 
thinking nothing of expending $50 on a store fixture, 
which really brings him no returns. Whereas, it is 
the good fitting garment that brings the trade ; that, 
and nothing else ; hence a cutter is paid high salary to 
bring customers, through his cutting. 

One satisfied customer pays for a set of patterns. 
Why not invest $50 in a selection of patterns. Our 
patterns are used all through the country, from New 
York to San Francisco, and in all class of trade, in 
wholesale, mail order and merchant tailoring; some- 
thing very few pattern makers can say. But ours can 
stand the test. 

In ordering a set state what class of trade it is to 
be used for, as they are cut differently. 

Trousers run in 6 different styles, from Nos. 1 
to 6. No. 1 is normal. No. 2 is slightly peg. No. 3 is 
half peg, No. 4 is full peg. No. 5 is extreme peg and 
No. 6 is extra large peg. For example, a 40 seat. No. 6, 
is 293% inches knee and actual 51 inches over the seat. 




IG bottom, 34 waist. When over 45 seat is ordered, we 
take it for granted it is a corpulent, unless otherwise 
specified. For example, a 53 seat will call for a 56^^ 
waist. 

To anyone ordering $50 worth of patterns we will 
give personal instruction FREE how to use them, 
either on paper or direct to cloth. 

In trying one of these patterns (they can be safely 
made up without try-on) there will perhaps be less 
changes than if the garment was tried on. 



THE I. C. S. PATTERNS 

We will call your attention to the superiority over other Patterns, and a few reasons therefor. 

(1) Ours are cut from a system based on scientific principles, and the ONLY SYSTEM IN THE WORLD 
from which patterns can be cut directly and will correspond to grading points. Their balance is correct. 

(2) They are models of the highest attainment in the art of cutting, and contain features not found in any 
other patterns. 

(3) Their fitting points are perfect and need never be changed. The sleeves have 2 notches which always fit. 

(4) They are marked to breast and heights, no others have these very important features. For example: 44 
br. is marked to heights from G ft. 2, to ."3 ft. 4 inches. 

(5) The breast and waist lines arc marked, as also are the short measures. 

(6) They are made of "flexible fibre paper" unbreakable 300 lb. weight (sample free). 

(7) A whole set of coats, vests and trousers, can be rolled and carried in a suit box, or suit case without injury. 

(8) We also furnish with each full set of patterns, "style shapers" free of charge. By the use of "style shapers" 
a block pattern never gets out of style; therefore, the investment is only once. 

(9) They can be hung up or rolled up and occupy but little space. One peg will hold a full set. 

The waist measure on coats are cut 4 incnes less than breast, except the corpulents. Seat measure to each 
breast measure is 1 inch more than breast. Waist measure is 6 inches less than seat measure on trousers; all 
trouser patterns are marked to the seat size. 

Lengths of all garments are usually cut to proportional heights, except the trousers which are all cut 82 inches 
long. Each Vest pattern is cut without a collar, but a collar is included giving the collar shape an opening. 

All short measures can be accurately applied because ours is an absolutely non-swinging system. 

Special patterns are cut from light-weight manilla or pattern paper. No tissue paper patterns sold. 

Measures for all coats, vests and overcoats are taken over the vest. 
IMPOHTANT— Crt-pe breast, ivaist arid seat measures, etc., height of castomer and attitude— IMPOUTAIST. 



PRICES OF SINGLE PATTERNS 



SPECIAL OR BLOCK (Any Size) 

Inverness and Cape : $2.00 

Newmarket , 2.00 

Overcoat (Frock or Ulster) 2.00 

Raglan 2.00 

Overcoat (Box or Chesterfield) 1.25 

Undercoat (Frock or Cutaway) 1 50 

Undercoat (Sack) 1.00 

Coat, Vest and Trousers 1.50 



Vest _ $ .50 

Trousers .75 

Riding Breeches : 1.00 

Cycle or Golf ....: 1.00 

Shoulder Cape 1.00 

Spanish or Military Cape 1.00 

Hood 75 

Livery, Uniform, Clerical and Unusual 
Patterns at special rates. 



PRICES OF BLOCKS IN SETS 



(Sizes 33 to 43 inches inclusive. 11 Patterns. 

Inverness and Capes 

Newmarkets 

■Overcoats (Frocks or Ulsters) _ .'. 

Raglans 

Overcoats (Box or Chesterfields) 

Undercoats (Frocks, Dress or Cutaways) 

Undercoats (other styles) 

Stouts (;!() to 43 breast) 

Corpulents (45 to 52 breast) ,. 



515.00 
15.00 
15.00 
15.00 
10.00 
10.00 

g.oo 
9.00 
9.00 



D. B. Sack Shapers $3.00 

D. B. Overcoat Shapers .• 3.50 

Vests (Normal or Corpulent) 5.00 

Trousers (34 to 44 seat. No. 1 and 2) 7.50 

Trousers, Peg (34 to 44 seat. No. 3 half, No. 4 Full Peg) ^^ 7.50 

Trousers, Extreme Peg (34 to 44 seat, No.|.5 & 6 7.50 

Trousers, Corpulent (45 to 53 seat) . 7.50 

A discount of 25 per cent, is allowed on all pattern 
orders, on amounts exceeding $50. net. 



THE 1. C. S. PATTERNS CAN BE OBTAINED ONLY FROM THIS OFFICE DIRECT 

Remittances must accompany all orders for Patterns. 



51 W. 28th Street 
New York 



.'\ddress all orders to 



International Cutting Schools 



54 W, Lake Street 
Chicago 



IIGHTED. 1909. 



L. Glaso^ 



INTERNATIONAL CUTTING SCHOOLS 



DIAGRAM 










The measures 


are taken 


1 over the Vest al 


ways. 


50 


Inside sleeve 


inches 


Blade (with ly^ 


inches for 




Breast 


inches 


seams added) 


inches 


51 


Waist 


inches 


Depth of scye 


inches 


52 


Hip or seat 


inches 


Natural waist 


inches 


53 


Strap 


inches 


Fashion \vai§t 


inches 




Over shoulder 


inches 


Full length . 


inches 


54 




inches 


Height ft. 


inches 


"55 


Form and Attitude. 




sizes to 


breasts 


56 




To Draft. 







SACK 



PART 1 



9 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 



30 
31 
32 
33 
34 



36 
37 



39 

40 

41 
42 
43 



44 
45 
46 
47 
48 
49 



Square both ways from A. 

— to B is 1/3 breast on "thirds" and 3j4 inches. 

B to — is 1/3 breast of height, and 3^ inches. 

A is half-way between — and — . 

This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

A to C is one-fourth height, and 34 inch for curve 

of Back. 
C to D is 1/3 breast, on "thirds" (also Vest). Seat. 
Added to tiie natural waist gives correct length. 
A to E is the Full Length of Back. 
F is half between B and A, for front shoulder height. 
Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. 
C to G is ^2 inch, draw line F to G and down to E D. 
From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 
B to H is half the full breast measure. 
H to I is 2% inches (Vest 2 inches), center of breast. 
B to K is blade (with 1)4 inches for seams). 
Square up from K — front of armhole. 
(Exagg.) — K to 31 is 1 inch — half exaggeration. 
(Exagg.) — 3 is half-way between K and 31 ; square 

up from 3. 
L is half-way between B and K. 
L to M is I34 inches (Vest J/j inch) — width of Back. 
Square up to O, and and down to N. 
P is 3^2 inch from Line O-M ; draw line to N. 
A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "twelfths," and 
Q to R is lyi inches; square up to S, ^ inch. 
K to T is I'/o inches (Vest 1 inch) ; T to U is 1/12. 
Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

V is located on lines from K and — through line — . 
Draw lines from S to U, and F to V. 

This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 
Rise at X JS inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 
K is yi inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

V is y2 inch from the O-N line, and 1/12 up from M. 
Draw guide line from Y to P. 

From B up apply depth of scye measure and 3-4 ineli 

to — , in normal attitude will meet line A. 
The 3^ inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 
(Stoop) — Lav square on 5, O and F, and square 

line O, 5, F. 
Obtain point S from 5 and shape 5, S to X. 
Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 
Apply strap measure, and 1 inch A to R and K to V 

in norma! attitude will meet line F-V. (Vest '4 in. ) 
Stooping) — Advance V from line K-V as much as 

below line 4. 
(Erect) — Go back from K-V line as nuich as above 

line V — . 
Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch (Vest -34 

inch) B to W and K to Z ; when normal, meet line 

F-V. 
Z is 13^4 inches from line K. 
Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

V to point 1 is ^ inch less than S to X. (Vest M in.) 
Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

Shape arms-eye and shoulder rounding y^ in. over Z. 
B to 2 is 34 breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 33^ inches. 



This is normal blade and independent of the actual 
blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 
(Vest 3 inches.) 

Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

4 to 5 is 3^ waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 
Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5, is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of tlie waist and to check the blade measure. 

5 to 8 is 234 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. (Corp. : 2 in.) 
These 231 inches are for seams and make-up. 
In corpulency, measure the waist first and obtain the 

hip spring from it. This rule applies wiiere the 
waist is even, or more, than the breast. 
^7 (Corp.) — Measure waist and 13^ inches P to G and 
8 to 16. 

58 Square down from 16 to 12 ; 12 to 11 is 1-| inches. 

59 Apply hip measure and '4 inch for 3 seams; width 

of Back from 12 to D and 10 to 11. (Exag. 3^ in.). 

60 11 to 12 is 1 • I inches; square up, locating 13. 

61 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11 is 1 '4 inches.) 

62 Draw a line from 13 tliroughll to 14. 

63 Measure waist and l3j inches P to G and 8 to 16. 

64 Y fo 14 is tlie length from Y to N. 

65 Shape side seam of forepart from Y to 16, going out 

^ inch over 11 to 14— or style. 

66 Draw line 15 and take out a % '"ch or more. 

67 ( Reduce 3/j in. from Y to 16 when no unrlerarm cut.) 

68 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. 

69 The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 

70 Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower ^ at 17. 

71 (Corp.) — Measure hip and '4 inch for 3 seams; 

width of Back from 12 to D, and from 10 to 11. 

72 (Corp.) — Draw line 15 and lake out the shaded part. 

73 Open at 2 the amount of seat surplus and fold 33 

on 34 by cutting to the pocket and to the front of 
pocket. 

74 V to 18 is 1/12 breast ; square forward from 18 by K. 

75 18 to 19 is 34 breast ; draw line from 19 to 1 and 5. 

76 (Corp.) — Advance at 1 the amount from K to 3. 
7J 19 to 20 is 234 inches; notch yi inch from 19. 

78 I to J is 1 34 inches ; 5 to 6 is 1 inch ; square down. 

79 Go in y^ inch at 7 ; draw line from 6 and shape front. 

80 \' to 21 is 134 inches; draw line to end of roll. 

81 (One Bottom) — Go in 1 inch between waist and 

seat line. 

82 The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and 3^ inch from K. 

83 (For double-breasted add 234 inches to the front.) 

84 I to J is yi inch ; 5 to 6 is Lv; ; 6 to 25 is 1 34 inches. 

85 2 to 44 is 1 inch ; square down to 3; yi inch. 

86 G to P 14 waist and ' i inch ; 4 to 16 is I34 inches. 
^7 Draw straight lines from 3 to P, and 3 to 16. 

88 For correct spring over hip draw line from K 

through 16. 

89 Draw line from G to D. From P add 34 inch for 

spring. 

90 Apply length and 134 inches, A to R and V to 7. 

91 Api)Iy Opening and ^ J inch. A to R and \' to J. 

92 Draw lines from C to 7 and E to 17. 

93 V to 21 in 1 inch ; when no collar 'J inch. 

94 Draw line from 21 to first button and finish as rep. 

95 (Corp.) — Open pocket 1/16 for every inch more 

than normal. 

96 (Dress) — ! to I and 6 to 5 is 3^ inch; draw line 

T to 7. 
'>7 J to B is 3 inches. Opening yi inch above waist line. 

98 7 to 8 is 1 34 inches ; 7 to 9 is the same. 

99 5 to 11 is 2yi inches; 5 to 12 is the same. 

100 9 to 10 is ■;{; inch; 12 to 13 is the same. 

101 (Clerical) — For vest to button in front, leave a stand 

■^ I inch. 

102 (Cleri.) — Reduce a seam at 19 dotted line; and 

shape the bottom. 



COPYRIGHTED. 1909. BY L. GIBSON. PATENT APPLIED FOR. 1913. 

INTERNATIONAL CUTTING SCHOOLS 



DIAGRAM. 



SACK 



PART 1 



The measures are taken over the Vest always. 



Inside sleeve 

Breast 

Waist 

Hip or seat 

Strap 

Over shoulder 

F"orni and Attitude. 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



Blade (with I34 inches for 



seams added) 
Depth of scye 
Natural waist 
Fashion waist 
Full length 
Height ft. 

sizes to 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
breasts 



To Draft. 



1 Square both ways from A. 

2 — to B is 1/3 breast on "thirds" and Syi mches. 

3 ]3 to — is 1/3 breast of height, and 3>4 inches. 

4 A is half-way between — and — . 

5 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

6 A to C is one-fourth height, and 34 inch for curve 

of Back. 

7 C to D is 1/3 breast, on "thirds" (also Vest). Seat. 

8 Added to the natural waist gives correct length. 

9 A to E is the Full Length of Back. 

10 F is half between B and A, for front shoulder height. 

1 1 Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. 

12 C to G is >4 inch, draw line F to G and down to E D. 

13 From the line just drawn inside of B measure to H. 

14 B to H is half the full breast measure. 

15 H to I is 2% inches ( Vest 2 inches) , center of breast. 
If) B to K is blade (with 154 inches for seams). 

17 Square up from K — front of armhole. 

18 ( E.xagg.) — K to 31 is 1 inch — half exaggeration. 

19 (Exagg.) — 3 is half-way between K and 31 ; square 

up from 3. 

20 L is half-way between B and K. 

21 L to M is 134 inches (Vest yi inch)— width of Back. 

22 Square up to O, and and down to N. 

23 P is J4 inch from Line O-M ; draw line to N. 

24 A to Q is 1/12 breast— on "twelfths," and 

25 Q to R is 1J4 inches; square up to S, ys inch. 

26 K to T is V/2 inches (Vest 1 inch) ; T to U is 1/12. 

27 Square up from U to V, locating the shoulder point. 

28 V is located on lines from K and — through line — . 

29 Draw lines from S to U. and F to V. 

30 This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 

31 Rise at X yi inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 

32 X is y> inch on the S-U line — or Style. 

33 Y is 34 inch from the C)-N line, and 1/12 up from M. 

34 Draw guide line from Y to P. 

35 From B up apply depth of scye measure and ^4 inch 

to — , in normal attitude will meet line A. 
3^) The J4 inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 

37 (Stoop) — Lay square on 5. O and F, and square 

line O, 5, F. 

38 Obtain point S from 5 and shape 5, S to X. 

39 Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 

40 Apply strap measure, and 1 inch A to R and K to Y 

in normal attitude will meet line F-V. (\'est y in.) 

41 Stooping) — Advance \' from line K-V as much as 

below line 4. 

42 (Erect) — Go back from K-V line as much as above 

line V — . 

43 Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch (\'^est y 

inch) B to \V and K to Z ; when normal, meet line 
F-V. 

44 Z is 134 inches from line K. 

45 Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

46 V to point 1 is ^ inch less than S to X. (Vest }i in.) 

47 Draw a guide line from point 1 to T. 

48 Shape arms-eye and shoulder rounding 34 in. over Z. 

49 B to 2 is 34 breast on "h.^lves" ; 2 to K is 334 inches. 



50 This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 
(Vest 3 inches.) 

51 Square down from K through 4 to 17. 

52 4 to 5 is 34 waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 

53 Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5, is used only to obtain the front cen- 
ter of the waist and to check the blade measure. 

54 5 to 8 is 234 inches, 9 to 10 is the same. (Corp. : 2 in.) 

55 These 234 inches are for seams and make-up. 

56 In corpulency, measure the waist first and obtain the 

hip spring from it. This rule applies where the 
waist is even, or more, than the breast. 

57 (Corp.) — Measure waist and I34 inches P to G and 

8 to 16. 

58 Square down from 16 to 12; 12 to 11 is Ifi inches. 

59 Apply hip measure and 34 inch for 3 seams; width 

of Back from 12 to D and 10 to 11. (Exag. 34 in.). 

60 11 to 12 is 1)4 inches; square up, locating 13. 

61 (Proportional hip spring 12 to 11 is 154 inches.) 

62 Draw a line from 13 through 11 to 14. 

63 Measure waist and I34 inches P to G and 8 to 16. 

64 Y to 14 is the length from Y to N. 

65 Shape side seam of forepart from Y to 16, going out 

54 inch over 11 to 14— or style. 

66 Draw line 15 and take out a 34 inch or more. 

67 (Reduce 34 in. from Y to 16 when no underarm cut.) 

68 Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch, from line K. 

69 The 1 inch is taken up in making the front edge. 

70 Draw line 14 to 7 ; shape bottom ; lower ^4 at 17. 

71 (Corp.) — Measure hip and .^4 inch for 3 seams; 

width of Back from 12 to D, and from 10 to 11. 

72 (Corp.) — Draw line 15 and take out the shaded part. 

73 Open at 2 the amount of seat surplus and fold 33 

on 34 by cutting to the pocket and to the front of 
pocket. 

74 V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 

75 18 to 19 is 34 breast; draw line from 19 to 1 and 5. 

76 (Corp.)- — Advance at 1 the amount from K to 3. 

77 19 to 20 is 234 inches; notch 34 inch from 19. 

78 I to J is I34 inches ; 5 to 6 is 1 inch ; square down. 

79 Go in 34 inch at 7 ; draw line from 6 and shape front. 

80 V to 21 is 134 inches; draw line to end of roil. 

81 (One Bottom) — Go in 1 inch between waist and 

seat line. 

82 The pocket is 2/3 sleeve length and 34 inch from K. 

83 (For double-breasted add 234 inches to the front.) 

84 I to J is 3^ inch ; 5 to 6 is I.34 ; 6 to 25 is I34 inches. 

85 2 to 44 is 1 inch ; square down to 3 ; 3^ inch. 

86 G to P 34 waist and K inch; 4 to 16 is I34 inches. 

87 Draw straight lines from 3 to P, and 3 to 16. 

88 For correct spring over hip draw line from K 

through 16. 

89 Draw line from G to D. From P add 34 inch for 

spring. 

90 Apply length and I34 inches, A to R and V to 7. 

91 Apply Opening and -jj inch, A to R and \' to J. 

92 Draw lines from C to 7 and E to 17. > 

93 \' to 21 in 1 inch ; when no collar '4 inch. 

94 Draw line from 21 to first button and finish as rep. 

95 (Corp.) — Open pocket 1/16 for every inch more 

than normal. 

96 (Dress) — J to I and 6 to 5 is 34 inch; draw line 

I to 7. 
'>7 J to B is 3 inches. Opening 34 inch above waist line. 
*^>8 7 to 8 is 134 inches; 7 to 9 is the same. 

99 5 to 1 1 is 234 inches ; 5 to 12 is the same. 

100 9 to 10 is .'4 inch; 12 to 13 is the same. 

101 (Clerical) — For vest to button in front, leave a stand 

-^4 inch. 

102 (Cleri.) — Reduce a seam at 19 dotted line; and 

shape the bottom. 








1 



.E, 



SACK AND SLEEVES 



COPYRIGHTEO. 1009. BY L. GIBSON 



PATENT APPLICO FOR 



INTERNATIONAL CUTTING SCHOOLS 



DIAGRAM. 



FROCK 



PART 2 



The measures are taken over the Vest always. 



Inside sleeve 

Breast 

Waist 

Hip or seat 

Strap 

Over shoulder 

Form and Attitude. 



inches Blade (with 1^ inches for 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



seams added) 
Depth of scye 
Natural waist 
Fashion waist 
Full length 
Height ft. 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
breasts 



To Draft. 



8 
9 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 
22 



22> 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 

33 
34 
35 
36 
2,7 
38 
39 
40 

41 
42 

43 

44 
45 
46 



Square both ways from A. 

— ^ to B is 1/3 breast on "thirds" and Zyi inches. 

B to — ^ is 1/3 breast of height, and 3^ inches. 

A is half-way between — and — . 

This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

A to C is one-fourth height, and ^ inch for curve of 

Back. 
A to D is the fashion waist; one-fourth height a.id 

1^ inches. 
D to 50 is I54 inches, line from A through 50 to E. 
A to E is the Full Length of Back. 
F is half between A and B, for front shoulder height. 
Square out from A, B, C, D, E, F, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. 
B to H is half the full breast measure. 
H to I is 2]/^ inches, center of Breast. 
B to K is blade (with l}^ inches for seams). 
Square up from K — front of armhole. 
L is half-way between B and K. 
L to M is 1^ inches — width of Back. 
Square up to O, and down to P. 
P is 54 inch from Line O-M. Square down to 13. 
A to Q is 1/12 breast — on "twelfths," and 
Q to R is \y2 inches. Square up to S, % inch. 
(Corp.) — Advance from K, 1/16 inch each size 

above 4 inches less than breast; to straighten the 

front run, take it out in the underarm cut as shown 

by shaded part. 
K to T is 1^ inches; T to U is 1/12 breast. 
Square up from U to V — locating the shoulder point. 

V is located on lines from K and — through line — . 
Draw lines from S to U, F to V, and A to K. 

This gives the proportional height of shoulders. 
Rise at X 3X inch, and lower at point 1 the same. 
X is 1/2 inch on the S-U Line — or Style. 

Y is ^ inch from the O-M Line. 
Draw guide line from X to Y. 

From B up apply depth of scye measure and JX inch 

to — , in normal attitude will meet line A. 
The y2 inch is for fullness held in over the blade. 
C to G is 1/16 breast and 1^ inches. 
E to N is the same width as 50 to G, and ^ inch. 
Draw a line from G to N and from 
49 to G for width of Back over brea.st-line. 
49 in on S-U and A-K lines. 
Blade fullness is % inch over the rounding. 
(Stooping) — Lay square on 5, O and F, and square 

lines O, 5, F. 
Obtain point S from 5 and shape 5, S to X. 
Shape the Back as shown ; draw line from B to W. 
Apply strap measure and 1 inch A to R and K to V 

in normal attitude will meet line F-V. 
(Stooping) — Advance V from line K-V as much as 

below line 4. 
(Erect) — Go back from K-V line as much as above 

line V — . 
Apply over shoulder measure and 1 inch B to W and 

K to Z ; when normal, meet line F-\". 



47 
48 
49 
50 

51 

52 
53 

54 

55 
56 



57 

58 
59 



60 

61 
62 

63 
64 
65 
66 
67 

68 

69 

70 
71 
72 
72, 

74 

75 
76 
77 
78 
79 

80 
81 

82 
83 
84 
85 
86 
87 
88 
89 
90 
91 
92 
93 
94 
95 
96 
97 
98 
99 



Z is 1>4 inches from line K. 

Draw a line from V through Z to point 1. 

V to point 1 is Y^ inch less than S to X. 
Draw a guide line from point I to T. 

Shape arms-eye and shoulder rounding ]/> in. over Z. 
B to 2 is J/j breast on "halves" ; 2 to K is 3jX inches. 
This is normal blade and independent of the actual 

blade, and comes even with K in normal sizes. 
Square down from K through 4 to 17 — center of 

body. 

4 to 5 is i<3 waist — on "halves" — center of waist. 
Square down from 5 to 7. The measure from B to 

2, K, 4 and 5 is used only to obtain the front 
center of the waist, and to check the blade measure. 

5 to 8 is 254 inches (8 to 6, V/i dress) ; 9 to 10 is 
1/6 breast. 

These 2^4 inches are for seams and make-up. 

G to 22 is I1/4 inches, or I3.4 inches in all sizes to 

allow for blade fullness and ^ inch for every inch 

the waist is smaller than the breast. 
Square up, and down to 23 ; 23 is J/^ inch below the 

fashion waist; or sweep from the Back by Y. 
Measure waist net G to C, P to 22, and 8 to 16. 
Shape side body reducing J4 inch near Y, ^^ inch at 

breast line and from 2 to 13 and 16, and 23 to 13. 

V to 18 is 1/12 breast; square forward from 18 by K. 
18 to 19 is j4 breast ; draw line from 19 to I and 5. 
(Corp.) — Advance at I the amount from K to 3. 
Add % inch rounding over the breast. 
(Cutaway) — 19 to 20 is 2],^ inches; notch ^ inch 

from 19. 
(Cutaway) — I to J is ly^ inches; 5 to 6 is 1 inch; 

square down. 
Rever — 19 to 20 is IJ/2 inches, or draw a straight line 

through 5-9 ; straighten ^ inch at 20. 
10 to 24 is 214 ins. ; 10 to 25 the same; sweep by 20. 
Draw a line from 13 to 24 — Shape from 13 to 25. 
(Cutaway, Dress) — Draw a line from 13 to 10. 
(Dress) — 24 t o 35 is 1^ ins. ; 35 to 25 is the same. 
(Dress) — Shape the gorge and front through 6-24 

to 35. 
Draw a line from K through 20 to 26. 
20 to 26 is 2y2 inches ; I to J is 3J4 inches. 
Shape lapel through 26 — J to 25. 
(Corp.) — 10 to 35 is J4 in. ; draw line from 13 to 35. 
(Corp.) — Lay square on 13-36-H and take out a V 

at 36. 
(Corp.) — Advance 23 the amount of V and seams. 
Skirt (Cutaways and Dress) — [Square both ways 

from 23. 
Draw a line from 22 to 24; square down to 12. 
Flare — At 23 go up % inch and square down by 32. 
23 to 12 is 1/3 breast, and 5^ inch. 
12 to 11 is V/z inhes; 11 to 27 is -^4 inch. 
Draw a line from 23 through 1 1 and 14. 
14 is natural waist, and 1 inch from 22. 
23 to bottom is y inch more than D to E. 
Lay "square" on 27-14 and mark for run of bottom. 
Shape skirt through 27 to bottom. 
Z to 7 is length from Z to E and 1 inch from line K. 
Draw line 14 to 7; shape bottom; lower 1 inch at 17. 
Square down the front edge to 7. by the waist line. 
Take out a fish ]4, inch, 1/6 up from 15. 
Go out 54 from D and line parallel to 50-E. 
Reduce y% inch at B from A to C. 
(Dress)— 24 to 36 is 54 the width from 24 to 22. 
(Dress) — 14 to 33 equal 24 to 36 and 1 inch. 
(Dress) — Shape front run of skirt (cutaway). 



INTERNATIONAL CUTTING SCHOOLS 



DIAGRAM- 



.TROUSERS 



PART 5 



Outside length 
Inside length 
Waist 
Corpulency 



inches Seat or hip inches 

inches Thigh inches 

inches Knee inches 

inches Bottom inches 

To Draft. The I'orepart. 
No. 

1 A to B is 1/3 seat on thirds and 

2 B to C is 3 1/2 inches. 

3 This is the proportional, and includes all allowances. 

4 From B to A is the actual "rise" as measured. 

5 C to E is the inside length, and 34 i"ch for a seam. 

6 D is half-way between E and C, and 2 inches up. 

7 3 is 1/3 of A and B, or "rise." 

8 Square out from A, B, C, D. E and 3. 

9 C. to H is Yi seat— on "halves." 

10 H to I is J/^ seat — on "eighths." 

11 (io out y2 inch from I, and m }i inch from I, mak- 

ing ;'4 inch ; this is for the dress side. 

12 Square up from H, locating 2 on line B. 

13 H to J is ^ inch (for 2 seams), square up to K. 

14 Draw a guide line from K to H for run of dress. 

15 L is half-way between C and I. 

16 Go in y% inch for every size less than 40 seat, and out 

'/i inch for every size more ; from L. 

17 Square up and down from L, locating O, M and N. 

18 N to P is '/4 bottom less ^ inch ; N to Q is the same. 

19 Draw a straight line from I to Q, locating R. 

20 M to G is J4 knee on "fourths ;" M to R is the same. 

21 Draw lines, C, G, P and I to R. 

22 J to 4 is "4 '"t"!! f"'" every inch difference between 

seat and corp; square up from 4, locating 5. 

23 K to 7 is the same as J to 4, square back from 7. 

24 7 forward is yi inch for every inch over normal. 
2?i Normal waist is 4 inches less than seat. 

26 Draw a line from 5 to H for run of fly. 

27 5 to 6 is ■<2 corpulency, and yi inch for 2 seams. 

28 A to S is lyi inches. This is normal. 

29 S to A is J/^ inch for every inch more than normal. 

30 Draw a line from S to 7, and shape the top. 

31 H to the curve of front fork is 1 12 seat. 



32 Shape the fork from K to I outer corner ; and 

33 Dress side from K to J^ inch above I ; inner corner. 

34 The largest dress hollow (^ inch) is opposite H. 

35 The seams from I should be straight 7y2 inches down. 

36 "Prominent dress," allow 34 inch more on fork 

curve, as shown by the broken lines. 

37 Shape the side seam from S ; the broken line show 

high hip-bone. 

3S This completes the Forepart. Cut out the pattern. 

The Backpart. 

1 The white line represents the forepart. 

2 Extend lines O, B, L, M, N and 3. 

3 Add 34 '"ch to length of Backpart from N. 

4 O to T is 1/6 seat — on "sixths." 

5 Draw a straight line from T to J. 

6 From forepart fork to U is 1/16 seat. 

7 Measure seat and 1;'4 inches 2 to B, and 11 to F. 

8 R to X is 34 inch for seams ; G to Y is the same, 
f^' P to V is 34 inch more than 34 bottom. 

10 Q to W is the same ; draw lines Y to W and X to V. 

11 Draw a line from Y through F to Z. 

12 Y to Z is the length from S to G, or sweep. 

13 Draw a line from Z to T. 

14 Z to 10 is }i seat; draw a line to L. 

15 Corpulency — From 5 to 6 and 8 to 9, and 1 inch. 

16 Apply waist measure and 234 inches from K to S 

and T to Z ; take out a 34 inch V at 10. 

17 The V extend down 1/6 of seat measure. 

18 (Corp.) — Add 34 the surplus to S and T; no J' is 

taken out. 

19 J to the curve of Backford is 1,24 seat by A. 

20 U is 34 inch below line C-I. 

21 Shape seat seam through corner of forepart to U. 

22 Shape outside and inside seams and mark notches. 

23 In no case should A to S exceed Ifj^ inches. 

24 Bow Leg — N to 45 is 2 inches — the amount of bow. 

25 Draw a line from 45 to L. The center line. 

26 Draw straight line from I to Q ; this locates R. 

27 Measure 3-2 width of knee from R to G. 

28 Notch Knee and Bottom on straight lines across. 



No. 
Normal. 
Add to seat line 
Add to fork 
Add to knee 
Lower the "rise' 



No. 1 
Slightly Peg. 
3^ and 34 inch 
and '4 inch 
34> and 1 inch 
34 inch 



No. 2 
Half Peg. 
1 and 1 inch 
34 and 34 inch 
1 and 2 inches 
y> inch 



No. 3 
Full Peg. 
134 and 2 inches 
'4 and 34 inch 
134 and 3 inches 
;'4 inch 



No. 4 
Extreme Peg. 
2 and 3 inches 
■4 and 34 inch 
2 and 4 inches 
1 inch 



No. 5 
Extra Large. 
234 and 4 inches 
•34 and ■;4 inch 
3 and 5 inches 
1 ' 4 inches 



T.<S. 




\w\'\vw^\v y-^^^'-^''W ■■ * 4* 




TROUSERS — DIAGRAMS 1 AND 2 



FORMS 





"- S 



L"CrN '<■ A "3 CI'IN 03'in 
L-crS ". V "3 2^t-i8 Ct^S 

•corn '■• V "3 o'l-iN cnvj 
3.'i c'lT-S Dia XXII cyi Bnyt 



pi?3 vbts N ,c:Dn3 yas^s s ;tyri3y33"N 




--:n^ 



lyrjyn K'i;rN ^' "K K n* B 

L"C3-K '< A "3 3?{1S CtK? 

i:'cri< ■< V "3 Ti« t23'in 
ly^'tT's Dia Via Dyi cnyt 




TTsr 



r:jrs ■• a "3 3««-in cin^ 
ycyti '' V "3 3N1K cm? 



6sn yv^1p s ;DiynMss' ya'in 




C'orx '■•■ A "3 =i"iN cz'^^\ 



tbsn y«85 8 ;|vbDpN yjytijpyjassns 



Copyrighted 1911 by L. Gibson 



SEP 17 1918 



Di; 



.psn ij?7>*3S''ins*2sn5 



.1 ^sDcy: 



.14 1V 11 !"i5?3'X E'crx -' riovnyj 

.DKL:t2N3 DVT OB'T' pN '^ IV H pS I"^ S t^n'V 

.K IV p'^ I'^i'ix— uDy-i2 Sytis^yiiv i rs i^ivV 

.K "3 1« p: 1V-D'1N1i<3 D^K D3"^J 

.5 pK 1 IV l!l PD P'^ !< t:n'V ;0Dy-l3 '-i fK 19 IV 18 

.(•2'4) t2Dy-l3 !»rN '20 IV 19 

iycji-i}{ D'lN cT-b: L-crx i rs « iv r. cDrs i'^ rs J iv i 

.6 IV rb s cn'v pN " "3 C'tars ;y3^sn s p-ns tanyj 

.t:j4!-iD n pN T^sn n ,t."n-i!<J -t cs":;' 

■/i 8 PN ">yDm -in ti'iN 18— ir>D ps 33"^ n i'n* cy^NS lyn 

,D"t tyiy 5i"iN DVL-crvX ;i'. ps .k ps lyL^jn^ d-x'O L-urs 

S5{n3t«t:t3}!3 ;yt:L"-iy div p'^ s cn-v ;t;'t:rN' I'i rx 21 iv v 



. c 1 1 " ■? c 

pya UV1 "IV -iy-i?iSL" ]-i-;2-ti w^cy-it c:^-\z ayi ii2 ojjf^ n 
3(i TD oyB'DJ'N 9!-j— ivSd V'nQ lyc'J'iyn'iK pi-s c-x-'r-x 

.DDy^^ 
'T Li-D lyosnv c-r.-r^N iv D'JC'r'N ps ivSd I'lyojis d{<d 'i 
.DyL":;rN h ^wSCNj .oyr-J^K sJj— ocyo 

.oycars 18 1V-13 T'orN pa jj"? n 
.L-c'.'p ;ys^s<t." X c-t: lys'-s ayi tin cr^b-iyn's^v iv 

.E IV A ;i2 ;y:yii yi-n D'Ix ds^^jj 

.'^{ir□■lJ< pE =iy"t; 'j— t:i{!p j'si'in b iv f t-n b iv a 

.crj'r'N t3:!<iE -lyn— ^oj-n '4 rs c iv b 

.oyt'crx 18— ivr^D t'dtn rx D iv b 

.Dv'j'urx 1^ rs E iv D 

.E pN A ;yL'"iiv 3';ii yaSxn n fs F 

.F px E ,D ,C ,B .'X ps D'-IS D3"'i3 

.Dyc'crN 9M— ivriD -lyuL'nya'is lyn rs G iv C 

H IV G ps lyQinS D"1N D3"S3 

.B IV J re P'^ S Cn"V ;1V>D !s fN J IV A 

.J"S A ps IV^'nS OyL-DJ'N H' t'X M pV^D '/i Vtt K IV B 

.B IV J pN M ^^n G ps ivSd y^nt: ;yD:;'-iy3'iN nyi ua"L" 

.yaSyt n I'n o iv H .ti'tij'x J^ t'^5 N iv F 

.yi-D -iy-^{— oys'BJ'N <i^4 rs Q iv P -.ccrN « rw P iv D 

pK iv^D b^ric ;yo"'iy3"iN ;'in£ C'crs '■' n o'nx onyj O "2 

-"E .ir^D ^no ;ut;L"iyt::iK r?^'^ t;r3"X '-- s p'lN L-nyj 

.u>yt:L"y3iJ(E ni iv>d >"nQ |yt;E'-y3'it< Din i2i'"j 

.K IV R ps r'b {? on^v pv^o '/« rx R iv G 

.iv^D S'-nc ;ycriy3'iN |'^S5E D'ns C'tsJ'N ^ t'N U .T .S 

.ir^D y'HD ;yt:-jnyc3iN piXE pns l-oj'X w tn X .W .V 

Avbo b"nc tyccnyTiN \'-^^: Diy3"s yn"3 D'in ct'jl" 

.iv^o ?"D lyctnyTiK ]"^h: iv^d S"ntD lyDcni cjis ayT t2S"i." 



11 



.uoyii -lyn anx jyoijy: jnjyL-L" tiiyn Di<o n 
.Dytycj^N 18 iv^D T'orx 

.DVB'DJ'N 36 t2Dy-l3 

.DyB'CrX 32 0D"11 

.Dyt;'!23-N 37.... o'D lyT^ a^n 

.DVt'!33'X 16?i t2D"11 yD'Sl'DSJ 

.Dyc'cjw 30 :3"f y^iB n 

.DyE^•D3'« 6 DIE 5 1'in n 

.A ps tyjyii yn"3 d-in t3D"^3 

.CoyK'CJ'N 9H') DVVCZ-H 3'.< pS CDy-l3 'i t'N B IV A 

(Dyc'crN t6?ij TDrx '4 px Tin Ji rx C iv A 

.D'D (22K)— "^xSom,, !i'ix— t:Dyi3 '-' rx D iv c 

.foyE'CJ'x 3(1) 3:"S ySie n rx e iv a 

.irSo t'-iXE o'jrr'x- B nx A p;t;"iiv :yii y3Sxn x t'X F 

.F px E ,D ,C ,B ,A ps D"1X 03"5'J 

• G px F ;yD5{nv crz ,E iv lyojnx t:3"S3 .cdj'x '-- rx G iv c 

.py3 n ps -lycjyo lyn rijyoL" r'x p-b G— F 

.DDy>3 lyT ps D^n n s'rxn— DyL"t23"x 18 i<x H iv B 

.DDy-13 ps -iy::3yD lyi— Dycorx -i'^ rx 1 iv H 

[Dyt."33"X 12';) DD''D IXE L"a3'X 1"^! D'D T'^3 VX K IV B 

."IJv'TQix ps D:?snB -lyn- K ps iv^i'iix D"ix t:3"!?3 

.K nx B ;yt;"iiv jy^i y3'^xn rx L 

.py3 n ps B"-i3 y^'Si'cxJ n— oycc^'x i'^ rx M iv L 

-N iviya:nx px o iv=i'ti8 d'ix t33"?j 

.N IV p'b X on'v .1"^ N— O pE t,"t33-x !i N rx P 

.(18) ^x'^usbynv ri'is— -Lioy-is ps 'pycE^yiiv p'x rx Q iv a 

.S IV ^I'nX D"1X C3">J— DyL'-CJ'K 15j rx R IV Q 

.Dyroj^x -'s rx s IV R 

px DyrDJ'x i'i rx T iv K 

(18) "ix>i3B':iynv» =i"ix— t2Dy-.3 SyL^E^ynv p'x rx u iv T 

nythssB' nyn— V ^I'lx ti jnjySyet'a^ U ps iv-si"i-ix d'ix D3"i?J 

.V IV F px K IV F ,U IV S ps DJ"S cn^v 

-:nx Dt«!^ ;X "3 K'oj'x '■' X oy'D -lyn^ist." oyn ti'ix dsmh 
.1 i:3"xs "3 l"::j'x ^ x tyo 
.py3 n ps D"-i3 n ps ^"CD— p"? U-S ti'is E'tsj"X 5^ rx X 

p ,^. ."^-,1,.3 }{ t^^'v .p'^ M— O pe DyB't33-X H rx Y 

DXDt:x3 DIV Y Tin X ps .X iv s ps ,s iv A ps py3 n t3S"B' 

I ay-iJX'n— P iv Y ps px ii^^'i-d-ix ps 

.X IV s '11 -lyj'jyii L-ui'X ?■» rx i cy^s iv V 

,T IV 1 tarjjs ps p'S-T'J X tan'v 

B'urx 'i jnjyonyjcnx iyi'?i^L" oyi px ix^ Dix n— ds'-l- 

.Z ;'-iy3-x 

px (18) "y3'?sn„ ri'ix— coy-is -i x rx 2 iv b ps 

.Tn3 -lySx'^^x3 lyn rx D^T .oyE'DJ'x 35^ jnjyot." i"x K iv 2 

nyaiyp ps lytoJVD lyi- n iv 4 inn K ps -lycjnx cix t:3"^3 

.oD'-ii ps -lyDjyo lyi .(ifi) "y3Sxn cj^ix- t3D"'i 5^ rx 5 iv 4 

.7 IV 5 p2 -lyojnx D'lX D3"b 

.E pn |nyD3ix Dvt."::3'x 3rx 7 
.14 IV 11 Tin 13 ps p"S X cn>v ;DyL"t3rx i'^ rx ii iv 12 

.Y "3 D'lX Cnv-^t ,N IV Y pB 53"^ n rX 14 IV V 
A 



